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YOUR RESEARCHPaint Correction Thread
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Reported fix · Original poster
I fixed the video links for last nights additions.
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Suggestion · Original poster
In the next videos when I am actually polishing, I will show you how to clean your pads on the fly.
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Suggestion · Original poster
They do run cooler but since the polish is held in the upper parts of each finger, there is less consistent, flat contact with the paint surface...if that makes since.
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Ok, I am starting up the paint correction thread as promised. This will be in multiple segments over the next few weeks. I will combine video and stills to show the steps and progress.
I spent the day in the garage filming the clay bar process but can't get the vid to import onto my iPad. I will fix that tomorrow.
The car: 1999 996 finished in Guard Red. Factory MK1 wing with Tech Art front bumper and side skirts.
Here is a picture of the paint in its true form; ie, no wax or sealants. This was after claying the paint. What you see are swirl marks from washing/drying, automatic car washes, etc. a lot of time, sweat and tears will be spent ridding the paint of these dreaded swirls.
Stay tuned, much more to come!
As a little teaser, here is a picture of a test spot I did today. Remarkable difference. Notice the clarity, reflection and depth of gloss. This test spot was done with Menzerna FG400 for the initial cut and two more polishing steps with Menzerna Super Finish.
I will talk more about why I chose Menzerna and the machine and pads used.
No intention at all to hijack this thread... I will follow it with great interest!. I just thought this may be of interest, since I haven't seen anyone else post magnified paint pix.
I posted these pix a couple days ago to a different thread, but thought they might be of value here. The first picture is a 50x magnification of the paint (Lapis Blue metallic) , after using a paint cleaner and 3M Scratch Remover (I wish I had taken a picture before that treatment). The second picture is the same area after a clay bar treatment.
The surface debris remaining after paint cleaner and scratch remover treatment is circled in red. Note the vast improvement after clay bar treatment:
Hopefully your going to cover correcting orange peel, I had some paintwork done last year and the quality isnt what I would expect.
I underdstand wetsanding is the fix but I havent plucked up enough courage to try it yet
DISCLAIMER: If there is a detailing process that you use and products that you like, please continue to do what works for you. I am just one guy with one way of doing things over 20 years of polishing paint.
Here is video #1. In this video, I demonstrate the clay bar. This is by no means a professional production. Please forgive my sweaty appearance. It was easily 9000 degrees in my North Florida garage. Also, my helper dogs were barking at a squirrel in the background but the sound should be ok.
PaintCorrection1 - YouTube
Krazy, my last set of vids will cover routine maintenance and tips to keep your car looking great. A lot of you guys are OCD like me when it comes to your cars so you know how to maintain your paint. We can make it a back and forth discussion with everybody tossing in there favorite ways and products.
Lets talk orange peel for a moment since Ross brought it up. Orange peel is insidious and the bane of all detailers that care. Unfortunately, orange peel is more and more common...even on high end luxury cars. How does it get there? Well, typically they are spraying the clear at a higher psi. More air equals less paint. Car makers are cheap and so are some body shops. The other issue are the EPA mandated water based paints. They just don't flow like the old fashioned enamels. The sad thing is, orange peel can be avoided if the painter gives a damn.
The most common fix for orange peel is to wet sand and then buff the paint. There are MAJOR risks to wet sanding your clear coat. First, it is thin. Second, if you sand through it then it's time for a respray. How thin is your clear? Factory clear is stupidly thin. Again, car makers are shaving off every penny these days. The typical clear coat from the factory is 2mils thick. That is 2000th of a millimeter. You little yellow post it note is 3mils thick. Sad isn't it.
So, if your car is factory paint with orange peel, I would not recommend sanding it. You really cant spare the clear. If your car was painted after the factory, talk to your body shop guy and see if he can tell you how much clear he sprayed on. That will give you and idea of what you are playing with. I would not learn to wetsand on my own car though. Get some junk panels from the scrap yard and play with those. There are also some very competent detailers out there that I would trust to sand my car. No easy answer on orange peel.
Can we request that instead of you personally starring in the next sweaty video, it be the lady in your avatar? Actually, ANY lady from ANY of your avatars would be fine... :-)
I will add the request to my production notes Walter!
And yes, HD video sucks for the presenter. I go on television almost weekly and those damn HD cams show every defect, even down to your dna. I look horrible on camera and am the first to admit it.
Video #2: In this segment, I show the paint defects after washing, clay barring and washing again. If you haven't heard of a swirl mark this is for you.
PaintCorrection2 - YouTube
Quick correction on the math...
1 mil = 0.0254 mm
2 mil - 0.0508 mm
So, 2 mill is about 5 hundredths of a millimeter, not one 2000th.
Many people erroneously think a "mil" is a metric unit. Unfortunately, it is part of the $#@&! English measuring system. A mil is equal to one thousandth of an inch.
OK.... back to the paint correction....
This is great! Gator, I already took your advice and ordered the CQuartz by CarPro that you recommended. I have a background in detailing, but I'm a little out of the loop on newer techniques, so I'm looking forward to your progress!
Awesome Dugger! This thread will be right up your alley. I am always ready to consult so don't hesitate to ask questions. Phone consults are always free of charge...to all here.
Finally got a chance to watch some of the videos. Excellent job and I think this is a great 101 into detailing for a lot of the new guys. You should maybe later on look into getting sponsorship from some of the products you use and maybe even t-shirts to wear.
BTW, I think the dogs were all saying "amen" to everything you were preaching. lol
Here are the last two informational videos. The next videos will be of the actual paint polishing in progress. I haven't started the project just yet but hope to start polishing this weekend. A tropical storm is headed to me so I will have nothing but time in the garage to play.
Polishing Pads - YouTube
PolishingCompounds - YouTube
That's great thanks for sharing. I am doing my GR car as well and think I will now use what you used. I did buy Chemical Guys 721 but am thinking of not even trying it. Do you or anyone else have experience with CG?
I have a lot of experience with Chemical Guys products. Some are good some not so much.
I do not like their polishes and compounds one bit.
I do like the V37 spray sealant and the Stripper Scent air freshener.
CG is focused on consumer detailing much like Adams. As a pro, I just use more robust products. With that said, CG and Adams make some really good products for the hobby Detailer and have their place in the market.i would not steer anyone away but I can show you guys how to get better and faster results with some pro stuff that you can buy.
Cleaning pads is really easy. After I am finished for the day, I spray them with some all purpose cleaner and work it in with my fingers. Then it is simply a real thorough rinsing. Place them somewhere dust free to dry.
In the next videos when I am actually polishing, I will show you how to clean your pads on the fly. They will get caked up with product after you have polished a panel and its imperative that you keep the pad clean so it can do its job.
I have found that the waffle pads just don't work as effectively as the flat pads. They do run cooler but since the polish is held in the upper parts of each finger, there is less consistent, flat contact with the paint surface...if that makes since. The waffles are a great idea in theory but I don't see much use of them in the industry.
The current must have pad is the micro fiber pads. They too have their issuers but their ability to correct quickly is awesome. I will always use a flat foam pad at some point in each correction. Without a doubt, they finish down better than anything on the market.
Really great info.
Where do you buy your pads an other supplies? I assume that you buy them in "bulk" somewhere?
Thanks for sharing and taking the time to make the vids.
Bill
Gator, did you end up getting the front bumper resprayed? if so, did you use my guy in G'ville?
nice work btw...if you want to take a shot at my car, have at it!
Great question Bill. There are a few sources for quality detailing supplies.
By far, the biggest is www.autogeek.net. They are based in Stuart, FL. I am a FL resident so I get hosed with taxes and shipping. But, they carry virtually everything you will need.
Another vendor I use regularly is Car Pro USA. They are the makers of CQuartz, the nano coating I will be using.
Autoality is based in PA and is another great source. Glistening Perfection is a site sponsor here and Moe is great to deal with.
Autogeek has pretty much cornered the market for detailing supplies.
I haven't gotten the cover sprayed just yet. I started a new job and I have been overwhelmed.
I would be more than happy to get your baby looking right. We can trade cars for a few days and git r done. It will probably be August but we can definitely work it out. You live too close for us not to do it.
Great job on the videos! Works WAY better without the loud barking!
Excellent beginner info on the pads, and the right products to use! I like being told what to use by hearing what YOU like, as opposed to someone showing a ton of products and not being specific.
Can't wait to see the video on using the polisher, showing how much product to put on the pads, how to use the machine properly, etc!
I'm not sure the exact connection between Car Pro USA and
http://www.mpracing.org/store
, but my vote goes to Mark at MP Racing. The title can be a bit misleading but they carry the same products as Car Pro and some at even more discounted prices. Mark offers EXCELLENT customer service and has me as a customer for life. You can often talk to him(owner) directly if you have any issues.
But I also agree with Gators others recommendations as well. I just wanted to throw another into the mix for us Midwest guys.
Another vid and a few more to come. I apologize for the lighting and rushing these videos but I want to get to the good stuff.
Pre polish recap - YouTube
Lighting basics - YouTube
Gator, I guess I must have missed something, but where is the video of you actually doing the polishing? The videos seem to go from pre-polish to follow up?
Very good and useful info. Thanks Gator. I'm planning on giving my car a full paint detail as soon as I'm done rebuilding by dirtbike.
I still get a kick out of your signature
