Excessive stone chips on dark paint...

...does anyone else find that the dark paints (mine's ocean blue) on the 996 chip too easily. My car's 3 yrs old, but still the number of chips on the front bumper and bonnet seem excessive. It's alomost as if the lacquer chips away to reveal a pale blue undercoat. I've owned other german cars over 3 yrs old and these nevr had similar chips. Is this normal, or should I complain?

It's the same over here black C2. The only solution i have is a (good)repaint of the front every 40.000 km. Bel996

What's you take on the clear coat bras. Do they do the job without looking hidious?

When I bought my car it was an option to have the Scotchgard clear coat put on. The 911 that they had in the showroom had it on the it's not just one piece. It's multiple clear pieces joined together so you can actually feel and see a seam where the pieces join together. My concern was if the seams tend to trap grime or make waxing a real bitch. Maybe someone with the clearguard could comment...all I know is my car is Artic Silver and I also have those nasty, deep chips on the front... <img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" />

I'm very, very proud of each and every one of my gray hairs, I earned every one of them.... The front of my 78 SC Targa looks as if it's been through three lifetimes... I think I'm jealous.

Here's stongard on a 993. Hood is the large one piece. Bumper is also one piece upper, one piece lower at the seam. Cant see it from 10 feet away. No chips, one year. Do it! -Richard

I agree, it is completely worth it to install a clear bra via X-pel, Stongard, Armorfend, or whatever manufacturer you trust. Find an installer that's done hundreds of cars. I put it on my M3, and while it is a little more maintenance to keep the wax out of the seam, it sure beats all those rock chips. Re-painting the car's front end is not a nice option, because it will only look good for a short period of time after painting, especially since "aftermarket" paint doesn't even hold up as well as factory paint. When you sell the car, you can either leave it on there for the next owner, or remove it for a chip-free front end. Cheers, Ken

Recently sold black 996c2. Stone chips are a problem but waxing the car really helps. I always go with dark cars- the ones I wax have a lot less chips than the ones I dont. I always wax the front of the car whenever I can especially before any use on a track.

Wow, that's the first account I've heard of wax preventing stone chips. Perhaps the wax allows them to glide off the paint rather than dig in. Still can't beat the 3M clear film IMO, except for the fact that it costs hundred of dollars! <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" /> After a while it begins to look a bit sand-blasted, but a quick application of some cleaner-wax type product freshens it up. Of course, don't get the cleaner-wax on the paint if you can avoid it. Ken

One of the reasons I selected Guard Red is the ease of touch-up.

The dealer had a 3M film put on before delivery of my GR C4S in Feb for no extra charge. I think that it is Autobahnd brand. It has more pieces than another brand (maybe Armorfend) that I understand is one that is typically installed at the port of entry by PCNA. I highly recommend the film. It is not readily noticable and shines the same as the finish. It is a bit of a pain when waxing, but the wax residue can be easily removed from the edges. I wish that I had installed it on my CL.

With the age of enviornmentally friendly paint, we see thinner and thinner coats that do not have lead. They tend to chip a LOT easier. Dark cars, Black/Lapis/etc. have WHITE primers, which stick out like a sore thumb once the paint is chipped. To combat this I suggest the clear film on the leading edges of the car, we all know this as: Armourfend, Autobahnd, etc. The are all the same stuff, made by 3M. The difference is in the cut, which varies from company to company. Good Luck.