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YOUR RESEARCHIs changing brake pads a DIY?
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Replace pads at the track in 15-20 minutes
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I've changed pads at the track in 15-20 minutes for all 4 wheels.
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Yes, I use the stock pads on the street with the vibration dampers.
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Suggestion · Original poster
In terms of the pads themselves what have you been using for the track?
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Suggestion
I agree with Greg that it's not worth using the vibration dampers on track pads unless you are also going to use them on the street.
Use with the vibration dampers, you get some squeaking
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When used with the vibration dampers, you get some squeaking but it's not that bad.
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Suggestion
When changing the stock pads for track pads, to avoid having to pry the vibration dampers off the stock pads to get them out, I just remove the caliper from the rotor.
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Yes, I think so.
Here is a link to Greg Heumann's brake pad instructions. Even though this is a turbo the brakes are very similar. Porsche recommends with new pads that you replace the wear sensors and vibration dampers. Also, don't forget about break-in... you will need to take it easy on the brakes for the first 125 miles or so.
<a href="http://www.heumann.com/bigred/" target="_blank">Greg Heumann's brake pad instructions</a>
I agree with Loren that changing brake pads on a 996 is a very straight forward task. Greg's instructions are good and apply to the stock brakes as well as the "big reds". I agree with Greg that it's not worth using the vibration dampers on track pads unless you are also going to use them on the street. I also don't bother with the wear sensor on track pads, since most track pads (e.g., Pagids) aren't drilled for them anyway. Just coil up the sensor wire after you've removed it and use a cord tie to secure it so it doesn't flop around.
When changing the stock pads for track pads, to avoid having to pry the vibration dampers off the stock pads to get them out, I just remove the caliper from the rotor. There are two 10mm hex head bolts on the inside of the caliper that bolt it to the wheel upright. Use a 10 mm hex key socket (available at Sears or most auto parts places) on a torque wrench to remove these two bolts. On the front calipers, the brake line is attached to the upright with a small bolt (can't remember the size). You have to remove this bolt to clear the caliper from the rotor. The rear calipers don't have this bolt.
Once the caliper is away from the rotor (I hang it from a short bungee attached to the top of the spring or inner wheel well), the stock pads will drop right out with the dampers still installed. If you have a piston spreader, this is a good time to push the pistons back into the caliper, otherwise Greg's approach with the pliers works too.
I then rebolt and retorque the caliper to the upright, slide in the track pads, and I'm good to go. Don't forget to apply an antiseize compound to the caliper bolts before reinstalling them. This way, when you're ready to put the steet pads back on, you don't have to get new vibration dampers or "reglue" the old to the pads.
It may take an hour the first time you do it but once you get used to it, it can be much faster. I've changed pads at the track in 15-20 minutes for all 4 wheels.
Thanks for all the info guys. In terms of the pads themselves what have you been using for the track? Havbe you heard of Porterfield pads- heard its a carbon/kevlar mix but heard a few have used on the M cars and they said it's a hybrid between street/track(less squeaking compare to race pads but better then OEM pads for the track)? Loren- have you gotten your radiator kit yet and has it been installed-have you noticed a decrease in temps? I'm planning to order the Row 030 hopefully before my next DE so hopefully my wife won't say it's too firm. Regards. Mike
Mike,
I've heard of Porterfield pads before but don't know anyone using them. Might be worth a try since the Pagids (even the Black sport/street) pads have some squeal.
Yeah... radiator kit is here and installed.
Temps are down 10-20 degrees for hot weather (track type) hard driving. Link below to the install process.
<a href="http://web.dsldesigns.com/~ljcook/radiator/" target="_blank">Third Radiator Install</a>
You might want to order your ROW 030 soon. Gert says demand is high and it might take 2-3 weeks.
(p.s. darn Euro keeps going up too... exchange rate has caused the price to go up $50 in the last month!)
Darn Loren-U DA MAN!!!: ). THe radiator sure looks like a great mod to do expeically with lowering tepms by that much-better for the engine and more then likely better performance. I need to order probably when I get back from vacation. Regards. Mike
Mike, I've been using Pagid Orange pads for both track and street for a couple of years. When used with the vibration dampers, you get some squeaking but it's not that bad. It sounds like you have racing pads, not cheap brakes. The other more serious drawback is cold stopping power. They really don't work that well until they warm up but they do work. BTW, I drive my car on the track a lot more than the street so your needs may be different.
Second point, I use the vibration dampers with track pads but do not glue them to the pads. I can't see any reason to. That way you can just pull the old pads out and slip the new ones in. No need to remove the dampers or to remove the calipers.
Jim
[quote]Originally posted by ckl93:
<strong>Karl S - do you use Porsche pads for street and track? Just wondering if you got more squeaking but less brake dust with Pagid's in.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Yes, I use the stock pads on the street with the vibration dampers. They are much quieter than the Pagid Orange pads I use for the track but I don't notice much difference in brake dust. The Porsche pads aren't nearly as bad about dust as the stock pads on my M3.
Karl
Loren,
You may want to consider getting some screening installed to protect your radiators, especially if you track the car. I had my shop pop rivet some screening in. On the track it keeps the rubber from building up and keeps stones away from the center radiator, which sits very exposed otherwise.
It's even useful to keep leaves, stones, etc out of the radiators on the street. I couldn't believe how much crap built up in my radiator cavity the first time I cleaned it out.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks. I've been considering some sort of screens.
I want something that looks good and still does the job. I prefer something removable and/or replaceable (without drilling out the pop-rivets). Don't get me wrong I like yours but I'm thinking more of a C4S TT look. Did you have any other ideas?