Help with GT3 Sway Bars Settings

Hey guys! Just wondering if you could help me with my new GT3 sway bars settings on my 996. I have PSS9s and I was wondering which hole in both front and rear sway bars should I have the sway bars set to. Also, which way is stiffer and which way is loose? Lastly, what has worked for you and what kind of track was the setting used at? Thanks so much!

i know where you got those "Plug myself" The front has 5 holes and the rear 4 holes. On the front, run it in the middle hole to start so you have 2 on either side. Naturally the 996 will have oversteer as it is rear wheel drive. I happen to like oversteer but a good balance is nice. If you want to induce more understeer to keep the front end still pushing a little, but it on the 2nd most inner hole. Just extended my Agency Power links. Make sure to loosen the links as you go to further holes. Tension is bad... The rear the is simple, how much drifting do you want to do But the rear on the 2nd most inner hole again. Good place to start. Further out the holes, looser settings. Just play with it from there. If you want the rear end to really stick, get the Agency Power control arms if you have not!

FWIW: The factory GT3 spring rates and the PSS9 spring rates are similar...and from the factory the GT3 comes with baseline settings of one hole from full stiff both front and back. Many of the GT3 guys have actually gone one softer in the rear to keep a slight understeer tendancy in the car. Andy

Not sure how much this will help, but I have the GT3 rear bar on my C2 with H&R springs. With the stock bars front and rear the car plowed like a pig on low - mid speed corners. Put 215's on the front and installed the rear GT3 bar and set it one from the firmest setting and now the car can be decently throttle steered around most corners on Gateway Int. Raceway (a "roval" with no elevation change). Not a direct comparison, but maybe it'll help you get a footing. Also, "looser" on the bar = less loose on the track. The bigger the lever, the easier it is to twist the bar. So if you attach the link to holes farther from the center of the bar, the softer or "looser" you'll make the bar. The car will roll a bit more and the tires will stick a bit better generally.

I�m pretty sure Dan has it backwards but I might be mis-reading his post. I'm easily confused. Moving the drop link towards the end of the bar will soften it. As Russ said this will increase grip/traction at that end of the car. Moving the drop link in or towards the bend in the bar will stiffen it. Stiffening the bar will decrease traction at that end of the car. To �soften� or �stiffen� is the normal terminology when discussing anti-sway bars. So, if you want to increase oversteer/decrease understeer you can either reduce traction in the rear by stiffening the bar (moving the drop link in towards the bend in the bar) or by increasing traction in front by softening the front (moving the drop link towards the end of the bar) If you want to decrease oversteer/increase understeer you can either increase traction in the rear by softening the rear bar (moving the drop link towards the end of the bar) or decreasing traction in the front by stiffening the front bar (moving the drop link in towards the bend in the bar). I agree with Dan that you should start with the front in the middle hole. If you want the car to be a little more neutral than delivered I would start with a slightly softer setting in back. One hole from the inside of the bar. You can also impact understeer and oversteer by adjusting your PSS9s but that�s whole other discussion. Does this make any sense? Jim

I run 2 away from full soft in the front and 1 away from full hard in the rear. This is for AutoX, but have run at Summit and VIR and it felt great on the track as well !