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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHHelp w/ ignition switch
Reported or suspected cause
greater/different than the "typical" ignition switch failure
Reported cause
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1
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0
Suspected cause
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Reported fixes
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Reported cause
I can't quite orient myself to with the part I'm looking at but it doesn't look like the electrical portion of the switch so I'm guessing your issue is greater/different than the "typical" ignition switch failure.
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0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
when car is running, you just turn the key a lil' further to the left & everything will work, lights, air, wipers, etc..., if you turn key to far, it will shut down the car, & you'll have to re-start, but when you turn off ignition make SURE you pull out key to the left or your battery will be dead in the morning, to check & make sure car is off, just listen to radio & if key is on off, the radio will eventually shut off, if not key is still in on position.
Leading evidence: 'greater/different than the "typical" ignition switch failure' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'greater/different than the "typical" ignition switch failure' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check & make sure car is off, just listen' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I got all the vents out, disconnected the headlight switch and ignition switch.
Use very small screw driver (cant remember exactly what kind)
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used a very small screw driver (cant remember exactly what kind), but it loosened pretty easily once I chiseled a little of the paint blob away.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
when car is running, you just turn the key a lil' further to the left & everything will work, lights, air, wipers, etc..., if you turn key to far, it will shut down the car, & you'll have to re-start, but when you turn off ignition make SURE you pull out key to the left or your battery will be dead in the morning, to check & make sure car is off, just listen to radio & if key is on off, the radio will eventually shut off, if not key is still in on position.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
You shouldn't have to disconnect the headlight switch or anything.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Check & make sure car is off, just listen
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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Unsuccessful attempts
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Discussions
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Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
when car is running, you just turn the key a lil' further to the left & everything will work, lights, air, wipers, etc..., if you turn key to far, it will shut down the car, & you'll have to re-start, but when you turn off ignition make SURE you pull out key to the left or your battery will be dead in the morning, to check & make sure car is off, just listen to radio & if key is on off, the radio will eventually shut off, if not key is still in on position.
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Suggestion
Yep it really is a 10-15 min job if you are just replacing the electrical portion if the ignition switch, which happens to be the most common part to fail.
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Suggestion
At $9 I�d recommend replacing the electrical portion of the switch first to see if it solves the problem and if not then go ahead and look at replacing the more complex locking assembly.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
greater/different than the "typical" ignition switch failure
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause
I can't quite orient myself to with the part I'm looking at but it doesn't look like the electrical portion of the switch so I'm guessing your issue is greater/different than the "typical" ignition switch failure.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
60 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
2 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
I replaced just the ~$9 part (I paid $45 at the Audi dealer, as I was in a bind) and it solved my car's problem.
OK, so I put the key in the ignition switch and it felt kind of mushy, I started the car pulled the key out and now the key will not go in. I also noticed that the steering lock is not working. With the key out I can turn the steering wheel lock to lock.
I have searched the board and found that the ingition switch is a known problem.
Does this sound like the problem that the $20 diy fix can take care of??
Any help is appreciated.
Car is 99 C4 w/ 90K miles.
Here is how the story ends: finally got key in with a lot of force, drove to dealer. one new
Ignition Switch, Steering Lock Assembly Only, LATE-STYLE, 996 Carrera 2/4 (1999-05), 996 Turbo (2001-05), Boxster/Boxster S (1997-04)
part # 996-347-017-07
and all is good. I'm $480 lighter. One thing that gets me about auto techs is how they charge the book time but finish much faster. The labor charge was around 3 hours, in 1 hour the job was done, the car was washed and in the lot ready to go.
I found a DIY to install this part, did not look too hard but I wanted it done today.
Had a local install one for 200 in Dallas. This seems to be a common problem, and probably wouldnt hurt to have a spare handy along with the DIY instructions for when it happens again. This is the 2nd replacement for me and both had different sympotms before the went out.
1st. difficulty getting the key in and out of starter and would not click.
2nd one, a/c and lights were not coming on when car was running.
Next time remember it's often the switch itself that is bad and can be purchased for I think about $40. Installation can be done in less than 30 minutes (10 minutes if you've done it once before!). I just had to do mine about 4-5 months ago.
so a point of data on these.
Yesterday I cut an assy in pieces and had a look into why this happens and although I cannot be for certain I CAN tell you what is going on. There is a "cam" that turns with the key. The cam pulls the lock mechanism away from lock and allows it to retrack back to lock. In the lock mechanism there is a spring loaded pin (and for the life of me I have no idea why its there) but when the parts either become worn to the point of allowing a little extra travel, or the spring that puches the locking pin back in place ?moves? (this was tough to tell if it is the problem because you have to destroy the part that holds the spring to see it) but anyhow..... when the locking pin retracts "too far" that spring loaded pin come out of the cam housing and gets stuck outside (since its spring loaded it wont go back in)
once it is out, that assy is done.
The "fix" would be to put some sort of a hard stop on the locking pin so it cannot retract to the point that pin gets outside the cam....for $400 I would try a fix myself... but for a dealer/indy there is just no way. To much time, effort and not really sure the cure would elliminate the problem.
Anyone have a spare they want to ship to me, I will pay shipping and try to fix it.
Maybe I will post a quick video of the workings - pretty simple and pretty dumb whats going on...
Ferd, don't let the 997 guys hear you say that ^ because then they will have 3 things (1. headlights, 2. interior, 3. ignition switch) to criticize about the 996!
THAT'S IT???
Gawd, double the price (or more) and all that is better is the headlights, interior and ignition switch?)
so if you gut the car for a track toy you're down to headlights and ignition switch... and add several hundred pounds and make it tall and clumbsy - pretty lame IMO
I've had a new ignition switch sitting in my to-do cabinet since I bought the car in '07! Looks like a major PITA to get in there and swap it out. My switch is a little mushy, and hard to turn, but still works fine otherwise.
10 minutes once you know how to do it??
Yep it really is a 10-15 min job if you are just replacing the electrical portion if the ignition switch, which happens to be the most common part to fail.
Porsche now replaces the entire ignition assembly with the steering column lock which is a more involved and costly repair.
For DIYrs you can buy the switch through your VW or Audi dealers for less $$ than the the P dealer or for even less $$ (~$9) online at places like AutohausAZ.
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ition%20Switch
If your hands can fit in the area, all you have to do is remove the air condtioner ducting from the bottom part of the dash on the driver's side and you can access the switch from there. No removing anything else is needed so literally it can be done in minutes.
iin my explaination the $9 wont help...if you have the problem of not being able to remove the key... THAT is not the electrical part
??? RIGHT ???
symptons for the electrical are not starting issues IIRC (someone confirm)
Can't totally confirm or disprove your theory, but many have said their key felt sloppy, difficult to turn or difficult to remove and the electrical portion of the switch was to blame. In my case I had no issues until one day I removed the key and the motor did not shut off. I replaced just the ~$9 part (I paid $45 at the Audi dealer, as I was in a bind) and it solved my car's problem. When the electrical portion starts to fail some have experienced random electrical gremlins that effected their lights, radio, and/or HVAC.
IIRC the problem is with the plastic �socket� at the end of the switch cracking and allowing the inserted key to turn without fully engaging or turning the switch.
At $9 I�d recommend replacing the electrical portion of the switch first to see if it solves the problem and if not then go ahead and look at replacing the more complex locking assembly.
Not true...In my case the key literally got stuck in the ignition and I was unable to remove it without some force. I was then able to get the key to work a bit better by lubricating the key.
I then replaced only the electrical component and now it works as designed. I'm not sure why the little switch would affect the mechanical operation of the key but it does.
I can confirm that the key will get stuck if the electronic switch goes bad. It happened to me twice. Replace the switch with help from DIY forum and the ignition will feel new again. Amazing what a difference it makes when the switch is replaced. The switch has numerous functions. When it goes bad your radio or ac may not turn off which will kill the battery. But the biggest problem (aside from not starting) is the inability to lock the car. The switches cost between 9-12 buck audi or VW part if i remember correctly. On a DIY scale from 1 being easy and 10 being difficult. Id give it a 2 as you have to get upside down in the footwell and remove some ductwork. If your a big guy like me this can be troublesome but not impossible. Good luck with the next one!
OK - good to know.. I took my camera to work so I hope to grab a video of the inner workings this afternoon and show what causes the "entire assy" to not work.
sounds like the first course of action should always be the cheap part!!
I'll try replacing the electrical portion myself since I already have the part. My ignition experience is like sticking the key in, and turning it in play dough. Electrical portion, or no?
In my experience it was...Replace it and see if it helps. If not you're only out 30 minutes of time and at least you're certain it's the expensive part of it that's broken.
Replaced mine a year ago or so. The only hard part was getting my body contorted to fit upside down under the steering wheel. Then you have to have a very small screw driver to remove 2 small screws holding the switch in place. You swap in the new part and tighten the 2 screws, then pull yourself out. The DIY shows pics to give you a visual, but it's really as easy as they say.
OK - many of you know I missed my calling,...should have been a video producer
WTF did I do wrong here?
anyhow, as you can see if you squint just right... the part I am pushing with my thumb is the locking pin. where my thumb is, there is a cover with a spring to do the work so your car doesnt have to have me pushing that silly thing in....
the rotating part is your key... the "cam" I spoke of forces the locking pin towards the camera.. but is not designed to push the locking pin back in (that is the job of the spring and is why you can remove the key with the locking pin still not locked.... and why when you turn the wheel the pin springs into the hole locking the wheel)
So that little pin on the side somehow is allowed to travel "too far" and gets "stuck" outside its normal operating possition. Several tries and on occation it goes back... but mostly not. The part I have in my have has very obvious wear on the "wrong" area from that pin... it finally gave up and left the owner stuck.
I dont see how the electrical unit has anything to do with this - its like there are separate issues and if the electrical part fixes your key issue then there must be some tumblers in there that wear and lock the key in place or something.
Sorry for the poor vid, I really do suck at camera work
I dont know why but this is all you need.... something gets effed up in this piece. Somehow, this electrical part is getting the key stuck and thats where it really goes down hill.
Ed, what you are talking about is somewhat related with this piece.... somehow, replacing this piece, solves the problem very easily. Is there another piece thats attaches to this thing?
since I took it apart wrong I cant bve sure, but the cam lock might actually slide in and out as well...I agree that the cheap part is first line of repair and many people say it fixes the problem.
still dealers are replacing the entire assy to the tune of $400 a pop...I cant explain it and will keep trying to put the puzzle together. My point is that there are inner workings that "could" cause a sticking issue and if the part shown above does not repair the problem.... know the assembly is fairly complicated, and made out or pot metal, and "CAN" wear.... maybe wear out???
Ha Ha! interesting video.
I can't quite orient myself to with the part I'm looking at but it doesn't look like the electrical portion of the switch so I'm guessing your issue is greater/different than the "typical" ignition switch failure. It may very well be a common failure mode, just one that I'm not familiar with but I admit that I'm no expert in this field, just more of a lucky (this time) DIYer.
The problem (or one of the problems) with the electrical portion of the switch is the plastic (white socket at small end) cracks preventing the electrical portion from fully seating or engaging with the mechanical portion of the switch when the key is inserted and turned, preventing various electrical connections/equipment from powering up or down properly. It also seems to cause the "sloppy" feeling when the key is turned.
As I mentioned in a previous post I didn't experience this "sloppy" or rough key action. I was simply able to remove my key w/o the motor turning off which is not the usual mode of failure, but if you look closely at the pic of my old switch you can see that the white plastic socket is not broken, worn or enlarged as most seem to be over time, so I think some how it must have simply come disengaged enough from the mechanical portion of the switch to cause the problem. Since it appears to be in OK shape I'll just keep it around as a back up if the current one ever goes on the fritz.
old electrical portion of the switch - it seems the different revisions of the switch are different colors see white bodied switch shown by Redridge
White plastic socket at end of switch that gets worn or cracks - yellow on Redridge's pic
Part Number from Audi dealer ~$45 CDN
Small screw driver I used to remove the set screws holding the switch in place.
One tip I can pass on to others that are going to replace this switch that will make the work much less uncomfortable is to place a small step stool (or similar) on the ground next to (& the same height as) the threshold of the car when the door is open and then lay a cushion over the stool and threshold to lay on when you squeeze your torso and head under the dash to access the switch. Sounds strange but hopefully will become obvious when trying to get into a comfortable position to get at the switch.
Suer, every other weekend or so, we just had one last Sunday.
There is a yahoo group woth updates, been some really great cars showing up!
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Talk about perfect timing missmy993, i dropped my car off with the valet parker this afternoon, called them up to bring my car up front, I get in and turn the key noticing it turned a couple of extra clicks, drove it home not problems A/c working. Get home, key doesn't come out. 20 mins later with much playing around as a patrol car gives me funny looks the key finally comes out.
I'm off to the dealer tomorrow morning for the part, bright and early, then I'm up for a bit of DIY I think.
Well, I tried, but failed! A breeze it's NOT! I got all the vents out, disconnected the headlight switch and ignition switch. Then, I nearly killed myself trying to reach into the void and turn the set screw with a tiny screwdriver. It wouldn't budge. I then tried sticking my head under the dash, to see if I could reach the other screw. I couldn't. Cursing, I put the whole thing back together, and had a defeat beer.
For those who say this takes 20 minutes, do you have 6 foot arms that reach under the dash?
That's strange...The screw shouldn't be under a lot of pressure. There is some paint on it but once you chip that away the thing should move pretty easily. Were you using a jewelers screwdriver? That's essentially what I had to use since it was such a small screw.
No six foot arms here...Hell I wish I was six feet tall for that matter!
The new switch works like a charm, dead smooth I would say , not having bought a brand new porsche ever I guess how this must feel coming straight from the dealership.
AndyK. The two screws that you need to loosen, and I do mean loosen, do not remove all the way are just holding screws. The screwdriver you need is a very very small one, it needs to actually fit in the hole thats there after you scrape off the red paint. Granted one of my screws was a little tougher but it's just a matter of getting the screwdriver to turn and thats it. You shouldn't have to disconnect the headlight switch or anything. I attacked one screw through the left vent hole, and the other from under the dash. If you get a Jewelers screwdriver and a flashlight you could get both done from underneath just as easily if you pull the seat back the whole way. I actually spent most of my time trying to find a flat head screwdriver to fit in the holes.
Hope that helps dude,
sean
I had a jewelers screwdriver that fit into the slotted screw, but I just couldn't get it to turn the screw at all. I had no leverage with my left arm stuck through the vent hole, grasping for the little set screw. When I tried getting under the dash, I physically couldn't squeeze in there enough to even see the other screw. Maybe if I reclined the seat back, and slithered under there on my back? But at 45, my back isn't up to that kind of contortionist action.
Some have recommended using a thumb driver to get more leverage on the tiny set screws. I got lucky and mine loosened without a fight.
http://www.toolking.com/grip-65235-1...t?ShareASale=1
Great idea, I found it easier to go under the dash instead of thought the vent, however it is a tight squeeze. The thumb driver looks like a great idea.
Funny you should say that you didn't have the leverage, I actually put my right arm in through the vent, hold the screwdriver in reverse as if you were going to stab yourself with it, then put your hand down into the vent, that half twist should be enough to break any resistance.
I bet you can't get bits small enough to use with a thumb drive socket wrench. Do they even make jeweler's screw sizes in bit form? I also needed a thumb drive for the damned torx screws on the vent panel! With the door in the way, most normal screwdrivers didn't fit! And, my torx bit driver was too thick to fit into the headlight switch area torx screw! The whole thing was a mess!
Andy.... sorry you're having a hard time. I did indeed recline the seat and lay upside down with my head on the floor. I'm a bit over 45 myself, so i had no problem getting under there, but getting out was another story. I almost had to call a tow truck
I used a very small screw driver (cant remember exactly what kind), but it loosened pretty easily once I chiseled a little of the paint blob away. I'm not sure why your's is so tight, but make sure the paint is removed enough to get a good bite w/ the screw driver. Then get under there giving your arm enough room to manuever and give yourself some leverage.
when car is running, you just turn the key a lil' further to the left & everything will work, lights, air, wipers, etc..., if you turn key to far, it will shut down the car, & you'll have to re-start, but when you turn off ignition make SURE you pull out key to the left or your battery will be dead in the morning, to check & make sure car is off, just listen to radio & if key is on off, the radio will eventually shut off, if not key is still in on position.
My ignition switch failed on my '99 996 with 43k miles. I have trouble taking the key in and out of the ignition. The A/C and the windshield wipers do not work when the engine is running, and when I maneuver the key out of the ignition, the odomoter, speedometer, and clock display remains on. How do I know if I need to replace just the Ignition Swtich, for the Electrical Portion Only (part # 4A0-905-849-B-M352) which costs about $11.00 or the entire Ignition Switch, Steering Lock Assembly which costs approximately $170.00 (part # 996-347-017-07-M100) ? I have not had any of these parts replaced in the past. I appreciate the help.
