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YOUR RESEARCHHey guys, add over heating issue hopefully someone might know about.
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Check air in the line
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I will have it checked for air in the line and that the fans work and leaks first.
Leading evidence: 'Check air in the line' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check air in the line' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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sounds like air in the system - these are signs water is going somewhere and being replaced with air
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Suggestion
That way you could check the rads and hoses for cracks or leakages.
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Thanks again, I got the new cap and refilled the water a couple times and somehow it fixed itself.
I have a 996 convertible 1999.
The car overheated pretty bad and water spewed out of the cap. So I got a new cap and filled it up with water. That stopped the water from spewing.
But when it idles it still over heats a little and even when I fill the water all the way up the low water light flashes time to time.
It has water and the new cap but at idle it starts to overheat.
The other funny thing is if I rev the engine at idle it drops the temperature instantly.
My guess is a weak water pump or maybe a slow water leak.
Thanks for any thoughts!
Huge fan of the forum!
Regards,
Charles Yarbrough
That the coolant temp drops when you rev the engine suggests the water pump is working.
But carefully inspect the pump for any signs of leaks. A small amount of dried coolant residue (it will be white) is allowed. Any wetness is a clear sign the pump is leaking and bad.
With the belt removed -- note its routing and direction of travel *before* you remove the belt so you can reinstall it the same as it was before.
Check for any pulley/shaft play.
Check the belt for a sharp edge. If it has one it is rubbing and if it is rubbing it is tracking wrong due to an accessory drive with shaft play.
Do the radiator fans work?
They should come on when the A/C is turned on but with the A/C off they need to come on when the coolant temp climbs to 212F. If the temp rises to 216F the fans should switch to high speed.
The fans are switched off at 205F.
You can check -- after a fashion -- the water pump is working by starting the engine cold and feeling the hoses to/from the pump. They should get warm as the t-stat opens and coolant begins to flow through the radiators.
This also checks after a fashion the t-stat is opening.
You also want to confirm both radiators get warm/hot about the same.
If there is a leak -- and I suspect there is -- what happens is when the coolant gets hot (over 212F) the lack of pressure because of the leak lets the coolant flash to steam at the hottest spots.
This interrupts the flow of coolant. It is possible too the steam plays a more active role and the expansion of the steam bubbles causes coolant to vent or spew.
It is possible the leak is bad enough that a cold pressure test will find a leak.
If not you need to be sure the system is full of fluid and get the engine hot and then as the fans come on shut off the engine. The heat build up will raise the coolant temp and raise pressure. If there is a leak you'll know it. Watch yourself. Hot coolant can spray out from anywhere. A hose. Water pump shaft seal. A radiator leak. Coolant tank. Bad cap.
sounds like air in the system - these are signs water is going somewhere and being replaced with air
If you are not mechanical...grab a good indy shop and have them give it a check out - save yourself a really cold, wet, frustrating weekend before Christmas in the garage and get some eggnog
My indy is open monday but you better bring some goodies or they might suggest they are actually closed
Great help, thanks so much and happy holidays.
I will have it checked for air in the line and that the fans work and leaks first. Then have the shop go at it for the other stuff.
I'll report back when I find out what it is.
Hello,
It made it a little over the first notch to the right of the middle. Normally it sticks right in the middle. Now it just goes to the first notch past the middle when it overheats.
How about cleaning the crap from between the radiators and the condensors. That way you could check the rads and hoses for cracks or leakages. You could also redirect your hood release wire out via the air temp sensor in the passenger side air scoop so you can unlatch your hood from the outside if ever your main release cable should snap as I did on the same model and year as your car. That would be like killing more than one bird with one stone so to speak.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Um-h2aUJHY4
Thanks again, I got the new cap and refilled the water a couple times and somehow it fixed itself. I assume it was air in the water line that worked itself out. It's running normal not but a tad over the middle line so next I will get an oil change and clean out the front water coolers!
Also if anyone lives around North Hollywood and wants to help my change the spark plugs and oil let me know. The shop wants a grand for it, I would pay $100 if we do it together or $200 if they did it. I have all the parts.
Happy New Years!
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