14 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
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YOUR RESEARCHTurn but no start
Leading reported evidence
Check anything obvious, loose connections etc, all good
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Took air filter out and checked for anything obvious, loose connections etc, all good.
Leading evidence: 'Check anything obvious, loose connections etc, all good' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check anything obvious, loose connections etc, all good' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Disconnected battery and tried again, turn but no start.
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Suggestion
Lets get the codes out first before start changing the battery or anything else.
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Suggestion
PULL out the fuse for the fuel pump then crank engine with out the fuel pump fuse if after several cranks it starts let it run for 5 to 10 seconds with out fuel pump fuse and as you feel car is gonna cut out re insert the fuel pump fuse quickly as it seems like it might have flooded with fuel...
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Suggestion
Probably not your problem but running the a/c 365 days a year here its easy to notice the radiator fans can drop avialable votage by around 1.5 volt or so.
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14 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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1999 cab - Took the car out of a short 3 month storage, CEL stayed on but everything read correctly. Oil pressure good, 4.5 @ cold or hot above 2k rpm, 1.5 @ hot idle, 14.5v, coolant temp at mid point. I took it for long 40m drive. Started fine, idled fine, felt a little sluggish at high rpm. Next day drove it out of the garage and turned it off on the driveway. Went to start an hour later and it turns but doesn't fire up. Disconnected battery and tried again, turn but no start.
Took air filter out and checked for anything obvious, loose connections etc, all good. I don't have access to code read, is there any method to pull codes with the dash? Anything I should be checking?
Thanks, any advise appreciated.
Battery is about 3yrs old and had a battery tender on it throughout storage, turns the starter/engine fine. Shows steady 12.5v and when it was running 14.5v.
I am leaning towards coil packs but will have to pull some codes first.
If the battery has a 36 on it for 36 months its time to change. If the dash votage gauge bottoms out where it is with the engine off it's low crank amps. The starter can suck enough amps dropping the voltage like is reflected on the gauge. With the low voltage and current draw of the starter the ignition coild don't have much to work with to fire up the engine.
Since it was just after running the car maybe the alternator didn't keep up with the current draw. Probably not your problem but running the a/c 365 days a year here its easy to notice the radiator fans can drop avialable votage by around 1.5 volt or so. Also, if you've added an audio amp some need to be configured so that they aren't on 24 hours a day even with the engine turned off.
So hows the voltage gauge look when cranking? Checked the battery water level? How olds the battery in its service life? Nothing wrong with having a fresher battery. Sure makes diagnosing an alternator problem easier with a definately good battery.
The gauge shows 12.5v before I turn the key. The engine turns very healthily. Doesn't seem like a bad battery it turns the engine quickly, ive tried it 4 times now and it still has a full charge showing, but as its 3yrs old I'll change it anyway. It's a Die Hard sealed battery so no top ups needed.
free and easy to get your battery load-tested . if it fails the load test, then you have some degree of assurance that you actually need a new one. best of luck getting this issue sorted out.
Yep that's my next purchase tomorrow. Anyway of getting codes manually before then or any other diagnosis I could do now. I'd like to do what I can tonight.
I'm from the dark (transaxle) side of 80's Porsche ownership and am used to doing things without a code reader.
PULL out the fuse for the fuel pump then crank engine with out the fuel pump fuse if after several cranks it starts let it run for 5 to 10 seconds with out fuel pump fuse and as you feel car is gonna cut out re insert the fuel pump fuse quickly as it seems like it might have flooded with fuel...
This is a quick and easy way to clear the fuel flooded plugs then removing coil packs and plugs etc lol..
good luck all the coil packs cannot have died in one go ??
As it was running but sluggish at high rpm's and now won't start it may be fuel related. Check for flow, could be a bad fuel pump or the fuel filter is bad. It was stored for three months so the fuel could have started to degrade.
Also it could be the pulse sender. When these fail there is no fuel flow and the engine will turn over but won't start.
I put some Stabil (sp) in the fuel before storage so that should be ok. Good point about the pulse sender, it's on the flywheel right? Anyway to test or just replace?
One other question, can you bypass the fuel relay to determine if its bad? I'm so used to carrying a spare in my 944's never occurred I'd need one for the 996. Thx
