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YOUR RESEARCHCamber is about -4 degrees after lowering pss-10 suspension
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Adjust individual car
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Suggestion
I would also like to see the alignment specs, also I would suggest taking it to a shop and seeing what is possible as far as movement, what is possible as far as adjustments go, aka min max they can actually adjust your individual car.
Camber is about -4 degrees after lowering pss-10 suspension
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Suggestion · Original poster
Should probably check the specs for the new GT3-RS 4.0.
Camber is about -4 degrees after lowering pss-10 suspension
Check tarett or gmg
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Suggestion
In the rear you can use the 'dog bones', check tarett or gmg.
Camber is about -4 degrees after lowering pss-10 suspension
Fill wheel well
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Suggestion
I'm not saying they dont look good, filling the wheel well, but your car is still sitting high.
Camber is about -4 degrees after lowering pss-10 suspension
Run those tire sizes without rubbing
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Suggestion
More importantly, if you dial out the negative camber, I can't see how you would be able to run those tire sizes without rubbing.
Camber is about -4 degrees after lowering pss-10 suspension
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Adjust individual car
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Suggestion
I would also like to see the alignment specs, also I would suggest taking it to a shop and seeing what is possible as far as movement, what is possible as far as adjustments go, aka min max they can actually adjust your individual car.
Camber is about -4 degrees after lowering pss-10 suspension
Set by bilstein, and i was able
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For instance, if you were to leave your car totally as is, and bolt on a set of say optional 285/30-18s, the gap between the well lip and tire would increase about 22mm to 32mm, which is way more than my car with PSS9s, and it is lowered to the highest level within the correct range set by Bilstein, and I was able to adjust to -1.6�.
Camber is about -4 degrees after lowering pss-10 suspension
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-4... not sure what you did but you have a problem or the car is lowered to the ground
for your info the PSS10 and PSS9 do NOT allow to lower the car. Ok you can do it by unscrewing to the max the spring screws, but the manual state clearly that you should be in between two specific value.
Not sure if they do that to avoid camber problem or if it is a more dramatic enginerring question, but I hope you checked it out.
Anyways to correct camber you don't have much, as most solution out there are made to add camber and not to remove it.
In the rear you can use the 'dog bones', check tarett or gmg.
comfirm where the camber is, which wheels and send a pic
I want to see that -4 degree !
I'm still drooling over -4
crap
even my rear street tires on my "agressive street" alignment are wearing on the outside edges --
My alignment guy laughed and said "you're gonna be getting more neg camber the next time I work on the car, your chewing up the outside even on the streets. Good job!"
I had to chuckle
I would never get -4 even with camber plates I bet
Were those installed correctly? I can't see you having -4deg camber and have no more adjustment left, unless possibly you are slammed and riding on the bumpstops.
Do you have the alignment printouts? I would hate to see your toe settings.
I would also like to see the alignment specs, also I would suggest taking it to a shop and seeing what is possible as far as movement, what is possible as far as adjustments go, aka min max they can actually adjust your individual car.
I agree
wait - WHO?
LOL
the OP didnt give much info - front, back, ride height, has alignment been attempted or is this a garage floor job - plus no pics
I mean, come on - no pics?
that's a deal breaker for me - i am out of here
(for 10 minutes)
Something isn't "right" about the original post.
PSS9s don't really go all that low (compared to other options out there). My car is what is generally considered "slammed" and I only have around -2 degrees of rear camber with OEM dog bones and toe arms.
The car rides about 10mm above all four tires (325/30/19 rear, 265/35/19 front). I'd love to post pics, but I don't know how. Is there a posting-pics-for-dummies link? The alignment (and PSS-10 install) was done by a Lotus suspension design engineer with mega credentials. So I suspect everything is "best possible" for racing, only I don't race that much so I'd like to remove some negative camber without raising the car. I'll look into "dog bones", but I was hoping for a standard solution (not knowing that I have what everyone else is looking for).
Still like to see pics of your spring perches. Are you all the way on the very bottom of the threads? More importantly, if you dial out the negative camber, I can't see how you would be able to run those tire sizes without rubbing. I'm assuming you have a WB model?
325 - wow wide
19" - wow - big
Lotus mechanic - well DUH...he's reading the English side of the degree scale - tell him to measure the angles in Metric!
Yes, it's a wide body (C4S). The rear wells will accept 335/30/18 tires on GT2 wheels. The front tires won't accept anything more than 245/40/18 with the M030 springs (they use geometry to provide variable compression). But the PSS-10 uses metallurgy to provide variable compression (thinner), so they allow an additional 20mm. No rubbing if you get the right offsets and roll the fenders. I'd love to show a pic if only I could figure out how to post images...
If you click reply and make sure you're in the advanced editor. If not click on "go advance" and below the text editor, you'll find a "manage attachments" section. This is where you can upload photos from your local computer. I hope that makes sense.
10mm between top of tire and wheel well lip should not get you -4� min, especially with the larger tires. For instance, if you were to leave your car totally as is, and bolt on a set of say optional 285/30-18s, the gap between the well lip and tire would increase about 22mm to 32mm, which is way more than my car with PSS9s, and it is lowered to the highest level within the correct range set by Bilstein, and I was able to adjust to -1.6�. You should measure the actual level cal points under the car (bottom of bolt near rear carrier as shown in Porsche Shop manual). If you are near 125mm, (IIRC with your taller tires ) then something is seriously not right that you can't get more positive than -4�.
Those tires are really way too tall for the rear, IMHO, but that is your decision to make. Standard rear size is 265/35-17 which is nominal 92.5mm sidewall, while optional 285/30-18s have a nominal 85.5mm sidewall height plus 12mm rim for 97.5, within 5mm of stock, while 325/30-19s have a 97.5 height PLUS the added 25mm of extra rim for 119.5mm! You are WAY over the design height of the tire/wheel combo by 27mm. Even 325/25-19 would be too tall, but at least its only 14mm more, but then you are 10mm shorter than the fronts.
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Should probably check the specs for the new GT3-RS 4.0. I believe they are very similar to my setup. Porsche was a little behind the times in 2003, but they've corrected nicely with the newer versions. 325/30/19 rear + 265/35/19 front are PERFECT for the newer widebody 911.
I'm not saying they dont look good, filling the wheel well, but your car is still sitting high. And how you arent rubbing the inner liner, lock to lock, I dont know. I dont see -4 degrees either from that angle. Rear shot!
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