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YOUR RESEARCHValve Tick Upon Start-Up?
Leading reported evidence
Use euro shell stuff (hard as hell
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I used the Euro Shell stuff (hard as hell to find...unless your indy carries it in 55/gal drums) and that helped a LOT on my initial start noises
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Suggestion
I was really debating between Royal Purple and Schaeffers for my next oil change (next week) and now I got to consider Motul
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Suggestion
Oil change at 5k miles (currently 2400 miles since last change).
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Suggestion
The biggest difference simply comes from replacing the old oil with 5K miles on it with fresh oil.
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Suggestion
Personally I use Motul in the 996 and next change will try Schaeffers.
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Suggestion
I will also say that your lifters have some oil in them from the factory...and i bet if you could run a test on that oil - its still the same oil that left the factory with...it cannot get out (I have taken quite a few lifters apart - its rather interesting)
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Is it normal for 1-2 seconds of (what I assume is) valve tick upon start up when I haven't driven my car for a while? Maybe this is a newbe question...
I would assume a boxer type motor would be less prone to starving the valves of of oil while the car sits?
On first start up and only for a few seconds I hear like a hissing/ticking noise then it goes normal. I dont know if this is normal as this is my first Porsche. I think we 996 owners tend to strain our ears for unusual sounds with these cars. Mine is a Manual 99 2C Cab job. What year is yours?
3.4 or 3.6?
what oil?
try another oil
I used the Euro Shell stuff (hard as hell to find...unless your indy carries it in 55/gal drums) and that helped a LOT on my initial start noises
The lifters are hydraulic, with pressure provided by the engine oil. Since it takes a moment for the oil pressure to build up at at startup the lifters can make noise from a cold start, moreso if the car hasn't been driven for a while and the oil has run out of the lifters.
The OP may also be hearing clatter from the chain tensioners, which are als hydraulically actuated and will make noise on startup.
A brief moment or two of general valve/chain clatter upon cold start is normal.
The longer the car sits the more you'll hear of this, up to a point. That is the difference from sitting say a few days to 2 weeks or more is nil.
You might also hear -- briefly -- what sounds like a heavy chain being dragged over a log which is one or more of the long chains being pulled over its tensioner as the tensioner (its "tension" provided by high pressure oil supplied by the engine's oil pump) fills with oil.
Even though this has been covered I might add the zero lash valve lifters -- there is one between each cam lobe and its valve -- are also dependent upon high pressure oil. When the engine is shut off those lifters that are under pressure from the cam lobe pressing the lifter down and holding the valve open will slowly bleed off oil and lose pressure.
Upon engine start these will lack sufficient oil to provide zero lash so there is some clearance between the cam lobe and the top of the lifter. The cam lobe makes a bit of noise when it contacts this lifter top that is a distance away. A few revolutions though and the presence of high pressure oil supplied by the engine oil pump replenishes this oil in the lifter and the lifter rises to essentially provide zero lash (clearance) between the cam lobe and the lifter face against which is rubs against as it pushes down on the lifter and opens the valve.
This noise is normal and nothing to worry about unless the noise continues, a tick or some similar noise gets louder, comes from one place, or the engine exhibits other symptoms.
To minimize this noise upon startup my experience is to not run the oil too long. It gets contaminated with unburned gas and water and this lowers its viscosity which contributes to the startup noise.
For my driving, etc., I have found 5K miles about right.
I have not really noticed any difference in startup noise between 0w-40 and 5w-50 oil. The biggest difference simply comes from replacing the old oil with 5K miles on it with fresh oil.
this is true which is why knowing if it is 3.4 or 3.6 matter as one has 5 chains, and one has 3 - one has variocam plus (a center section of the lifter that raises at low rpm) and one has solid tops (still hydaulic)
so start up clicking can be more than just lifters...it can be chain tensioners and even cam actuators - a good oil will help but the longer it sits and the more these parts wear the more oil seeps OUT while at rest
I will also say that your lifters have some oil in them from the factory...and i bet if you could run a test on that oil - its still the same oil that left the factory with...it cannot get out (I have taken quite a few lifters apart - its rather interesting)
How long is too long? I hear a ticking sound at startup, but once the car gets to temp, it goes away. Certainly lasts for more than a few seconds. It is my DD (03 C2) so it never sits too long. Oil change at 5k miles (currently 2400 miles since last change). Oil pressure always good. No other issues. Short of flat bedding the car to Japan, should my Indy have a look?
does yours change with ambiant temps?
You can ship cars inside airplanes for about the same cost if you factor in time
lets start an oil thread - what oil are you running
A start up ticking that lasts until the engine is warm is generally not due to lifter/chain tensioner bleed down or oil bleed down in general. These things juice up in just no time at all.
But there are exceptions of course, there always are.
A start up tick that lasts until the engine is warm is sometimes an exhaust leak. The crack/split is open when the exhaust system is cold but as it heats up this closes down.
Yet another is a converter is a bit loose in its housing and as it gets up to temp (600C+) it stops rattling.
There other possible explanations which I won't go into.
Really though, diagnosing noises without being at the car is just guesswork.
My advice is to get the car to your favorite/trusted indy and describe to him the circumstances under which the noise appears.
If it takes two days of lack of use sitting out side then so be it. Arrange then to leave the car. The indy if he's good will arrange to get the car on a lift with the noise present and pinpoint where the noise is coming from. He may resort to using a mechanic's stethoscope.
Once the location of the noise is know, or other possible locations eliminated at least, what to do next is easier to decide, and more likely to be the right decision.
No need to flat bed the car to Japan unless your indy is there.
Schaeffers is a great oil used heavily at the high end marinas in the Treasure Island area. Personally I use Motul in the 996 and next change will try Schaeffers.
Next.......
you should get this resolved - a fresh oil change is a strange thing - I swear they run better - instantly!
and DONT buy cheap oil - your oil should cost $7-10/qt - I wont tell you which one to buy - as that would constitute an oil thread - but get one that someone here says they use - not Mobil 1
I have spoken to my Indy.....he says the "only" way a NA 996 can survive is with an oil transfusion every two months... Like dialysis. M96 engines are sick, I tell ya!
I was really debating between Royal Purple and Schaeffers for my next oil change (next week) and now I got to consider Motul
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Which oil will really do the job lubricating her?
according to your signature you dont even have an M96 - TROLL!!
that is silly for your indy to say such a thing - actually it's stupid - out and out right stupid
and thus why a thinner oil is what is in the cars. Thicker oil pumps slower. thinner oil can get to the heads faster. mine ticks a bit too. But only when it site for more than 3-4 days
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