PPI question on a 996 2002 C2

I've zeroed in on a car to purchase: 2002 966, with about 30k miles on it. Found a service shop nearby the seller (who is very far from me by the way, about a 4 hr drive), and this shop can do a PPI. They service a lot of Mercedes, BMW and some Porsche's but its not their specialty so I'm a bit concerned. Here's what they've offered to look at during the PPI: Heat/aC system Lights, wipers, fluids, drive belts, check for leaks, brakes, tires, steering suspension, brake hydrolics, paint/structural, DME. I asked about checking the RMS (they said they would catch any problem looking for leaks) and also asked about the IMS bearing (thry said this is inside the engine, wouldnt check it) The seller has indicated that he's taken very good care of the car, never did anything with the RMS or IMS bearing. Any advice on this PPI? Should I require more for this car, such as a oil leak down test? With only 30k miles, do I need to be overly concerned?

Oil leak down test?

Meant "leak down test". Sorry im a bad typer and a noob.

I wouldnt I would have someone check the paint for repairs, and any body repairs. If they dont do Porsche they will not be much help, but then again, many of us bought 996's without a PPI and survived - at 30k miles it should be a cream puff - I would make sure and have a clause stating if it's not you get any deposits back and have no obligation have a 996 owner go with you to pick it up and give it a heck of a good look over - buy it and smile all the way to your IMSR service appointment at your local shop where you are making new friends to help you take care of your car

Take out an advanced 30000miles/3year warranty covering as much as you can on the car in addition to the PPI preferably from a Porch Garage. I did and used it on a new gearbox/transmission later down the road.

I honestly didn't have much luck with my PPI and in retrospect, I would have demanded my PPI bring a Durametric tool (durametric.com) and run some diagnostics. Particularly, examine the voltage on the Mass Air Flow sensor, check for any OBD codes, miss-fires and really importantly, ignitions in Range 2. Any readings in Range 2 are not the end of the world but they can indicate the car has been driven hard or improperly (missed shift like 5th to 2nd). In fact, my PPI missed so many issues (see rantings in my other posts) , I called them, showed proof of my repair bills on blatant missed items that they refunded my money for the inspection. Bottom line, PPI is better than nothing most times (but not in my case). I would do it unless you have another friend who knows 996's or fellow member here willing to help out. Best of luck!

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Yes. There are just some things that only Porsche drivers or mechanics can tell may be wrong. I can't explain it. For example, in one low mileage car I test drove when I was looking, the gear shift cables were off or about to break despite that it felt alright. I just knew. The sounds, how it feels, pulls when accelerating and brakes are all things that someone who knows about the car will be able to confirm are ok.

Quotes source post: 10053443

The car is just a used car so a full used car check out is a must. This means believe nothing works until it is tried and found working. This means for instance one just doesn't turn on the head light switch and say ok if the dash lights come on he gets out and walks around the car and checks each light that should be on is on and has the proper brightness. Same for turn signals, flashers, brake lights, fogs, brights, reverse, parking. And a similar check out for other systems. Before any of the above I'd want to have the car started cold and idled until warmed up some. I want to verify the CEL comes on and then goes off -- as all other warning lights -- when the engine fires and runs. I'd want to hear the engine run (idle) when cold, as it moves from cold to warm and proceeds to get quite warm and then after a nice test ride/drive hot. No leak down test is necessary. The PPI should be taken on a test drive of around 15 miles and pay attention to the car, every aspect of it. The driver should chose a route that allows him to demonstrate the car/engine can do the old city/stop and go stuff, steady speed cruising, and hard acceleration without a whimper. This mix of driving is important for its gives the DME a chance to test a variety of engine sensors/systems from misfire detection to fuel tank venting. I might point out my 02 Boxster runs just fine but under the above test cycle the CEL comes on and a converter is flagged weak. You or in this case the PPI must give the DME time to find any issues, or the engine time to manifest any issues. It ain't going to happen sitting still with the engine off. Then back at the starting point, provided the PPI is still happy with the car, the PPI gets behind the wheel and drives the car over the same route in the same way. Back at the starting point then the used car check out is done. Then the car is put in the air and inspected for among other things leaks. In the service bay the car is hooked up to diagnostics computer and the DME is read and the engine run time in hours decimal hours is used to calculate the car's average speed. 30mph is well, about average. The over rev counters are noted and their values considered. The oil filer housing is removed and the oil filter housing oil is examined -- after being poured into a clean pan -- and the oil filter checked. course the filter should be replaced with a new one. There is always a risk a car might suffer some catastrophic failure. The best PPI in the world can't do anything about that risk. What you want is to be as sure as you can be the car has no outstanding issues and has been taken care of used in such a way that it is unlikely it will develop any issues in the future. The car has less than 50K miles, which is the new car warranty mileage threshold. Thus it is possible the car could manifest a "new car" problem. Problems occur from miles driven not how pretty the car looks sitting in a garage.

One added precaution that the PPI would probably not detect without using a durametric tool is:- is if a CEL was on the car and the PO disconnected the battery for a short spell and reconnected it, then the CEL light would not come back on until the computer had reconfigured itself. I believe that to be about another 100 miles or so. So in short, No CEL does not necessarily mean that, all is OK. Only a durametric diagnostic tool could probably detect that the battery was disconnected and that the computer had not reconfigured itself.

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Any OBD scanner can actually test for that. You have to set it to check for readyness.

Have them pull and replace oil filter .. Open old filter and look for metal debris if everything else looks ok. Also make sure window regulators are good .. Should drop 1/2 inch or so when you pull door handle ... I would be a little concerned with such low miles. If car sat alot for extended periods of time seals can dry out .. And this seems to increase probability of ims issue. If you are willing to budget for new clutch and do ims while you are in there .. That would be lowest cost insurance against new motor .. Btw .. I didn't do mine yet .. But probably will during next 5k or so ...

Where is the car, someone will probably have a recommendation on a known good shop near it.

Agreed on the oil filter being cut open, I had that done on my PPI. Good point on the window regulators...one of the 996's I test drove had the window regulator go out during the test drive. Get in that thing and turn on and off everything that should function, and make sure there are no strange noises, grinding, etc. I also agree with FBP, let us know where you are looking (I would start a new thread, something like...Need a PPI recommendation in Walla Walla Washington) I bought a car that was about 1800 miles away, so I had no idea where the nearest good indy was...fellow RL'ers recommended a few great places, and I chose one of them. Cheers, DS

the leak visual inspection will detect RMS. for IMS, a check of oil filter is probably your best bet inspect the coolant expansion tank for leaks inspect battery, alternator, belts, brakes, suspension, wheel for cracks / dents, accident paintwork, clutch expect to spend $2-5k to fix various things in the first year.