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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHwater pump
Reported or suspected cause
coolant
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
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Reported cause
At this time I noticed on the pavement a trail of what proved to be coolant.
Leading evidence: 'coolant' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'coolant' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check coolant level i spotted coolant pouring' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I changed my coolant a few times before the wp too.
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This DIY How-To used an OEM unit (looks plastic to me):
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Suggestion
Walking to the rear of the car to check the coolant level I spotted coolant pouring from the car.
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Suggestion
If I followed the recommended replacement intervals for water pumps, starters, clutches, alternators, and god only knows what else, I would have spent a fortune unnecessarily on my cars.
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Suggestion
If I followed the recommended replacement intervals for water pumps, starters, clutches, alternators, and god only knows what else, I would have spent a fortune unnecessarily on my cars.
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Suggestion
I do not know where I got this idea but it the idea occurred to me the contact could have been intentional so there's some initial abrasion and wearing in so the impeller blades run very very close to the alum.
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the closest consensus I found from reading around is to replace the WP as a preventive measure,
regardless of symptoms
every 60K miles
This DIY How-To used an OEM unit (looks plastic to me):
http://p-car.com/996/diy/waterpump/
P.S. The WP is NOT addressed specifically in any of the major maintenance intervals:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/maint/maint_us_mj_02/
I agree and just had mine replaced at 62k. My water pump was good but did it for preventive maintenance. Also the 997 water pump is now spec'ed for the 996 replacement. I had it done at RUF and that's what they put in.
Well, once again I think I'm on the opposite side.
What I have found works for me is to replace the water pump when it needs it.
Now I have not owned a 996 and may be these cars go through water pumps like crazy but I have an 02 Boxster and its original water pump lasted over 170K miles. I have put another 80K miles on the replacement water pump (factory pump) and it seems to be working just fine.
My 03 Turbo has just over 86K miles and its original water pump is working just fine too.
If I followed the recommended replacement intervals for water pumps, starters, clutches, alternators, and god only knows what else, I would have spent a fortune unnecessarily on my cars. (I have for instance a set of spare serpentine belt idler rollers and tensioner for my Boxster. Bought these years ago. I have not had to take then out of their baggies.)
And there's no guarantee the new part will prove to be ok. That's why Porsche offers a 2 year parts warranty on new parts.
Sincerely,
Macster.
As usual, I'm with Macster. I replaced mine at 110k miles when it needed it. I ordered the pump from a dealer and the part I received had metal impellers. I know plenty of people have received plastic.
-Shawn
The PO had the pump replaced at 80k miles as a preventative measure. The replacement failed at 116K. The part appeared to be an aftermarket one, although it was hard to tell. I purchased a new pump from Sunset for $222 last fall.
If my engine makes it to 160k or about 45k miles on the pump, that is when I plan on changing it out. It isn't worth 200 bucks to get stranded.
Now it is time to change out the original coolant reservoir and cap. I can't believe they have lasted this long!
BEST CASE SCENARIO: car gives enough "warnings" or symptoms that WP is about to crap out so owner is able to fix/repair.
I have read about some owners who had ZERO warnings (or maybe some ignored the clues or were simply CLUEless) who then had to deal with a catastrophic failure.
I am leaning towards taking a vigilant/wait-and-see stance like Macster above (have 63K miles on original WP: no noises, drips or wiggle/jiggle so far)
Mine just failed at the impeller shaft, leaking water onto the garage floor overnight. My car, a MY2000 model had 132,000 miles on it when that happened, and it was an original pump. When I pulled it, the plastic vanes were perfect. No signs of any wear at all. I replaced it with another Porsche water pump.
Waterpump replacement is somewhat north of $1000 so, no, this is really not a "maintenance" item. Unfortunately, just like with every other car, the waterpump WILL fail at the most inopportune time and leave you stranded. In the middle of South Carolina. On a Sunday. OK, maybe that was just me ... but still.
Just you.
The water pump in my Boxster failed, or that is I noticed the noise and diagnosed it to a probable water pump problem in my parking space. Had the car flat bedded to Walnut Creek Porsche dealer for water pump R&R.
The fuel pump quit at the same location. I started the engine and backed the car up about half a car length out of the parking space then the engine died. It almost restarted but then nothing. Had the car flat bedded to Livermore Porsche and after diagnosis the fuel pump was R&R'd.
Oh, and the coolant tank too. I thought a radiator fan was not running so I pulled the car in to my parking space after a bit of drive around the neighborhood (to really get the engine up to temp) and after backing the car in and raising the rpms to cause the fans to switch on I got out of the car and determined the passenger side radiator fan was not running.
At this time I noticed on the pavement a trail of what proved to be coolant. Walking to the rear of the car to check the coolant level I spotted coolant pouring from the car.
In this case I waited until the car was completely cold then started the engine and drove the car the 2 or so miles to the Livermore Porsche dealer.
The only thing that has failed on the Boxster away from home is the 2nd AOS. It failed -- eventually -- 2K miles form home but thankfully just 90 miles from Aristocrat Motors in Merriam KS where I had the 1st AOS attended to when it failed (at home thought at that time home was in Oak Grove Mo).
Sincerely,
Macster.
WP has been written about extensively here. Apart from failure, another big concern is degradation of the plastic impeller leading to tiny chips possibly breaking off and getting lodged in the cooling capillaries in the head causing a cracked head or worse. Changing at 60K is good practice. It's not that difficult of a job. A word of caution. I was sold a 997 WP initially and the impeller was 3/32" larger in diameter than the 996 WP. The 997 WP would not spin inside of the housing. Had I not checked by spinning the pulley, I would have had a big problem.
Mine has started dropping fluid a little, so I guess it's about that time to replace. 79K on the clock, so I feel that's about fair, but why are the prices soo freakin high for a water pump???? Technology doesnt equal the price. It's a PUMP that moves overpriced modified WATER!!!!!
I'm done.
What dealer is that?......'cause someone got shafted, and we need to make sure people avoid this particular dealer.......
That kind of price I expect to pay for a new clutch at an indy shop, including parts and labor...
^^ To be fair that'd be a pretty good price on a clutch.
RE: Waterpump/coolant, at full price it would be $685.54 here in Raleigh NC at an independent. That's with Porsche coolant and pump, parts and labor. I'd expect the dealer to be a bit more though $1000 sounds a little high.
Actually the Hilton Head dealer wanted $1280 ($450 for the pump, $80 for the thermostat, $100 for the coolant) and 3.5 hours labor as I recall. That was for a 986 and yes I realize they are different. An indy over towards Spartenburg wanted about $1000.
My car must be blessed because even at 170K + miles when the WP started making noise and was id'd as 'bad' from play at the pulley the composite plastic impeller was intact and in fine shape. I got the old WP back and carefully examined it.
I did not see the new replacement pump -- the work was done at a dealer so I assume a factory WP was used -- so I do not know if the new WP had the same composite plastic impeller or if it was made of some other material.
Upon carefully looking over the old WP I did notice some sign with the original WP the impeller blades had come on contact with the WP cavity in the engine casting. There were what appeared to be small grooves on the edges of the blades that looked as if they had been made with contact with the rough surface of the WP cavity in the engine casting.
The WP shaft play was not nearly bad enough to allow the impeller to move enough for this to have happened.
I do not know where I got this idea but it the idea occurred to me the contact could have been intentional so there's some initial abrasion and wearing in so the impeller blades run very very close to the alum. of the engine casting to make the pump very efficient, that is to reduce the amount of coolant that can escape between the gap between the impeller blades and the engine casting.
Anyhow, always whenever a water pump is replaced it should be checked to make sure it turns freely.
Also, prior to installing a new t-stat the new t-stat should be tested for acceptable operation by putting it in a pan/pot of hot water on the stove with an accurate thermometer to verify the t-stat opens at the designated temp and that it opens fully. I like to drop the new and old t-stat in the same water to see if there are any significant differences in their behavior.
Sincerely,
Macster.
I am working along the same lines as Macster and yourself. Its easy for me to whip off the air intake and serpentine belt and spin the water pump. If it silent and not wobbly then it stays. Then keep my eye on the water temps. Mine has 53000 on it now and no drips. Coolant level static and believe me I hammer this car on a daily basis. I am not against preventative maintenance in fact I make mine by inspection before replacement. If it is a DIY job then all the better as I love working on 'Doodlebug'. Thats my pet name for my car. Click the link for an explanation.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V-1_flying_bomb
If your pump is original it requires service. Every three years or 60K mi. I changed my coolant a few times before the wp too. 100 degree temps often and school queus. Not worth the risk as it can go bad without warning.
Regards,
FWIW, like all parts on these cars, which constantly rise, the WP is up to $260 at Suncoast. They do not recommend the 997 WP for the 996, too many have reported interference, which is not normal.
How come I am seeing new water pumps at Parts Geek for half the price of prices mentioned so far? Is there anything against installing these cheaper pumps. Any feed back from posters would be well appreciated along with Pros and Cons for these pumps. Thanks.
http://www.partsgeek.com/7bz9hxr-por...p+-+A1+Cardone
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
