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YOUR RESEARCHDIY Spark Plug Change Tips?
Leading reported evidence
Replace nuts & bolts
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I replaced all the nuts & bolts on the exhaust with SS ones and flipped the long bracket bolt, so they are easy on/off.
Leading evidence: 'Replace nuts & bolts' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean bottom and sides of the engine' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Even used a toothbrush far the hard to reach places.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I spent awhile last night cleaning the bottom and sides of the engine.
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Suggestion
Inspect each coil for any signs of cracks and be sure the rubber seal is intact, no cracks tears or signs of degradation.
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Suggestion
I would suggest getting all new coil packs and, replacing the ones you need to and returning the ones you do not require.
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Suggestion
I also removed the mufflers, there is no way I'm going to try loosening the coil pack retaining screws and doing the oil plug tube change with the mufflers on, and I'm glad I went that way, much better on your sanity and knuckles!
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15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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I am about to tackle changing the spark plugs on my list of DIY projects. I read the DIY's on Renntech.org and a few others I found but was wondering if you guys have any cool tips or extra info from your own experience. Im thinking of removing the mufflers as suggested in some of the DIY guides I read. It would also give me more room to do some more engine detailing. I spent awhile last night cleaning the bottom and sides of the engine. Even used a toothbrush far the hard to reach places. Not much usual engine grime, just that strange yellowish coating Porsche puts all over the place. Any tips for the plug change would be appreciated.
Just a couple of general things.
First, while I've never bothered to change the plugs in my Porsches having this done at the shop but for other cars and this is important you are not out to break any records.
Take your time.
Avoid disturbing other lines, hoses,and such.
Avoid interruptions. Turn off the cell phone and send the missus Xmas shopping. (There goes the money you save doing this plug change yourself.)
Handle the coils with care. Do not toss about or bang into each other. I would prefer to put each coil back on the same cylinder.
Inspect each coil for any signs of cracks and be sure the rubber seal is intact, no cracks tears or signs of degradation.
Avoid letting the plugs bang into each other. Leave each in its box until you are ready to directly install it in the engine. Be sure you do not let the tip touch anything.
Be very sure you get each plug started in the hole properly and torque each plug to its proper setting.
Afer you have installed the new plugs and reinstalled the coils you are sure each coil is securely connected to the plug and that the coil is securely attached to the engine. Use a torque wrench to avoid over or under tightening.
And this is just as important, that the coil's other electrical connection is good too. I've been told by techs that often a bad coil is diagnosed when the coil proves to be ok the electrical connection is just not right.
Before you button everything up count the empty spark plug boxes. You should have 6.
Sincerely,
Macster.
1. Definitely remove the mufflers. Spray the bolts with PB Blaster or liquid wrench, and let them soak a while. (Consider modding the mufflers while you have them off)
2. Not sure what year you have, but change the spark plug tubes while you're in there (if your car has them). Use a "boat plug" type of device to remove the old tubes. Use a tiny bit of grease on the spark plug tube o-rings when installing them.
3. Screw in the new spark plugs gently BY HAND. You do not want to cross-thread them.
4. Use a torque wrench to tighten the plugs and bolt on the coil packs.
5. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
Well, then, duh!
Depends on the year I think. Not possible by normal humans, with normal human hands to do the most rearward on each side on the '02's or later with out STOCK muffler removal. Once you've had the mufflers off, you can take them off or install them easily in just a few minutes on each side. I replaced all the nuts & bolts on the exhaust with SS ones and flipped the long bracket bolt, so they are easy on/off. Well worth the trouble when doing engine work.
I just did this last week.
Tried without taking the mufflers off. Sucked. Removed the mufflers and it was a piece of cake.
Removing the mufflers took maybe 15min max.
Start with the easiest to reach one first (passenger side forward cylinder). It will give you a feel for what you have to do on the hardest to reach ones. A small dab of silicone grease will help on the coil tubes. Be really careful on the torque, it doesn't take much when tightening (I forget the exact torque, you might want to look that up). Make sure you have exactly the right plugs and compare the new ones with the old ones before reinstalling. Do not work under the car without jack stands and don't jack up the rear of the car under the motor....use the side lift points. A thick blanket or crawler is good because you will be under there for awhile working patiently, unless you are lucky enough to have a lift. I did mine with mufflers not removed, a bit of a pain but doable. Absolutely make sure you get the wiring harness connectors to coil packs to "click" when reinstalling, you have to pull the rubber boot back and make sure it clicks into place. I cleaned and polished the aluminum heat shields while they were off and that really makes it look good when done.
Thanks all for the tips. I think I will use the muffler removal method for the extra working room. It will also give me a chance to do more engine detailing. I will start tonight or tomorrow.
i have a manual that has tested and aproved a snap-on s9706 spark plug socket and an fxw4 wobble extension. tightening torque 30 + 3Nm (22 + 2 ftlb). let me know how the rear bumper cover removal and muffler removal go too.
I also removed the mufflers, there is no way I'm going to try loosening the coil pack retaining screws and doing the oil plug tube change with the mufflers on, and I'm glad I went that way, much better on your sanity and knuckles!
I did mine a few weeks ago, since I run bypasses and no mufflers it was easy, removing the mufflers is a huge recommendation. Also I would go buy 6 coil packs, none of mine were misfiring but when I actually pulled out the coil ppacks I found that the plastic casing on the body of the coil pack was starting to crack and break away. Given the coil packs were still working properly and may have continued to do so I felt safer replacing them all. I would suggest getting all new coil packs and, replacing the ones you need to and returning the ones you do not require. It would suck pulling your plugs and realizing you need coil packs and having your car sit on jacks while you wait to get your coil packs.
