15 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHRND IMS cover leak
Leading reported evidence
Install year ago and ~6k miles ago
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
So the PO had a RND bearing fitted a year ago and ~6k miles ago to my car by Sunset Imports Porsche, at the same time they did the clutch and RMS.
Leading evidence: 'Install year ago and ~6k miles ago' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean existing bots and re' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
While you are right there, I'd replace the flange gasket and the o-ring under the flange (assuming your EPS bearing has one), I believe I used the green wicking Loctite (I used Loctite 37481 290 Green Penetrating Threadlocker) on the center nut, and the thicker Loctite (I think I used Loctite 574 Flange Sealant) on the flange bolts.
Use loctite 37481 290 green penetrating threadlocker)
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
While you are right there, I'd replace the flange gasket and the o-ring under the flange (assuming your EPS bearing has one), I believe I used the green wicking Loctite (I used Loctite 37481 290 Green Penetrating Threadlocker) on the center nut, and the thicker Loctite (I think I used Loctite 574 Flange Sealant) on the flange bolts.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
While you are right there, I'd replace the flange gasket and the o-ring under the flange (assuming your EPS bearing has one), I believe I used the green wicking Loctite (I used Loctite 37481 290 Green Penetrating Threadlocker) on the center nut, and the thicker Loctite (I think I used Loctite 574 Flange Sealant) on the flange bolts.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
I have the sealant, I was going to clean the existing bots and re-use.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
While you are right there, I'd replace the flange gasket and the o-ring under the flange (assuming your EPS bearing has one), I believe I used the green wicking Loctite (I used Loctite 37481 290 Green Penetrating Threadlocker) on the center nut, and the thicker Loctite (I think I used Loctite 574 Flange Sealant) on the flange bolts.
Reseal following the same procedure as if you were going
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
We were contacted by the OP - we recommended that the flange be resealed following the same procedure as if you were going to do an install - locking crank, cams, pulling tensioners, etc.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
While you are right there, I'd replace the flange gasket and the o-ring under the flange (assuming your EPS bearing has one), I believe I used the green wicking Loctite (I used Loctite 37481 290 Green Penetrating Threadlocker) on the center nut, and the thicker Loctite (I think I used Loctite 574 Flange Sealant) on the flange bolts.
Use loctite 37481 290 green penetrating threadlocker)
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
While you are right there, I'd replace the flange gasket and the o-ring under the flange (assuming your EPS bearing has one), I believe I used the green wicking Loctite (I used Loctite 37481 290 Green Penetrating Threadlocker) on the center nut, and the thicker Loctite (I think I used Loctite 574 Flange Sealant) on the flange bolts.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261027T075545Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
So the PO had a RND bearing fitted a year ago and ~6k miles ago to my car by Sunset Imports Porsche, at the same time they did the clutch and RMS. I have the engine out doing some other work and was checking what looked like an oil weep at the bell housing. The RMS is good and it looks like the RND IMS cover is seeping, not terrible for 6k miles but it should be dry. Looking at the leak pattern it seems to me that the lower 2 mounting bolts are the culprits, the center nut/seal seem fine.
Any advice on repairing?, was thinking about removing the bolts (1 at a time) cleaning the threads and sealing with Loctite 290 green.
If it's just the two lower bolts, take them out, hit them with some thread sealer (I used the White stuff) and put them back in - make sure they're torqued properly (it's not very much - something like 7.5 - 10 ft lbs IIRC - but check it). It looks to me like it might be the center stud though (cleanest near bottom middle/left). Good luck
While you are right there, I'd replace the flange gasket and the o-ring under the flange (assuming your EPS bearing has one), I believe I used the green wicking Loctite (I used Loctite 37481 290 Green Penetrating Threadlocker) on the center nut, and the thicker Loctite (I think I used Loctite 574 Flange Sealant) on the flange bolts.
Not that I don't trust you
but are you saying the area above the IMSB is dry and clean? Doesn't show in your picture.
I did the RND install on my car myself. The instructions lack sufficient detail IMO. First, there is an o-ring that goes on the center bolt and it's proper location is not given. It is possible Sunset either installed this in the wrong place or not at all. Also, there are no instructions on sealant anywhere. However, I am pretty sure the flange bolts go all the way into the wetted crankcase, so they must have sealant. When you remove one, be ready for an oil stream. I did use the wicking LocTite on mine. So far, so good.
We were contacted by the OP - we recommended that the flange be resealed following the same procedure as if you were going to do an install - locking crank, cams, pulling tensioners, etc. The instructions are quite thorough on this procedure.
http://rndengines.com/wp-content/upl...Row-Manual.pdf
The instructions show the proper location for the o-ring on the center stud (10x1.5mm).
I would also look at the RMS and the case perimeter bolts in the rear, as those also commonly leak.
Thank you Charles, yes your team promptly replied to my question on your site.
I just followed the link above, maybe I missed it but I didn’t see any mention of the O ring or sealant being used
Well that makes me feel better. I too looked again, thinking I had overlooked something the prior 15 times I looked for this. I don't see the word o-ring anywhere, or a picture showing it in place.
You can buy new micro-encapsulated bolts if you do not want to buy the sealant. The green wicking stuff will work on the stud.
I told you the sealants to use above, a little research would either validate my advice or contradict it.
From my perspective, there is exactly one logical place for the o-ring in the assembly, and it requires removal of the flange. Which requires locking the crank, cam and removing the tensioners, etc. as Charles said. That requires many of the specialty tools as if you were going to replace the bearing.
I don�t know why anyone would put an o-ring under the nut, as it would be destroyed when torquing the assembly.
While you are there, you should replace the flange gasket. It may not have failed, but it is cheap preventative maintenance.
(Deleted a pissy comment)
Thank you for your first reply, much appreciated, but why the pissy comment delete?, my reply was to Charles sent as feedback as his install notes don't mention sealant or O rings.
I am planning on doing a full reseal replacing the seals, I understand the proceedure/tools. Currently have my cams out for lifter replacing
I realized the comment wasn�t helpful and wasn�t kind, so I got rid of it. There�s too much unkindness in the world, no need for me to add to it.
I'm glad you are getting what you need to get your engine fixed up. If you are near Vermont (I can�t see the location info from my phone), I have extra of both of the sealants required and would be happy to share.
Thanks for the offer, I�m in MN, nice road trip from Vermont?
I have the sealant, I was going to clean the existing bots and re-use. And the flange seal is on order with a bunch of other parts for the refresh.
Again thank you for your advice, always appreciate getting an insight from someone that has done the job
