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YOUR RESEARCHHelp Me Troubleshoot My Window
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Replace of them
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Leading evidence: 'Replace of them' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check underbody panels' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Good write up on how to pull the door panel and replace the window regulator:
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Suggestion
Check the underbody panels for missing plastic acorn nuts.
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Suggestion
It is not a difficult job to replace the regulator.
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Suggestion
1) Did you tighten the silver brackets enough when you re-inserted the glass in the new regulator?
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My passenger window doesn't drop when the door is opened, however, you can easily push it down manually with the door open until it stops, about a 1/4" (whatever normal is) drop, like it should do automatically.
Then when you close the door, it moves back up into position automatically.
So basically it's not mechanically dropping the window, but it appears the cables are moving inside properly but just not dropping the window.
I have read that this could be remedied by going into the door and taking some slack up on cable at the cable jacket adjustments.....is this what I should be doing or could it be something else?
Thanks for the help....would like to get it right the first time if possible!
Could be a failed microswitch, however, in most cases it is the window regulator that has aged and the cables get slack. One way to check is to use the inside door handle and see if the window drops the appropriate amount. If either the inside or outside door handle doesn't make the window drop the right amount then it is the regulator. If the inside one works and the outside one doesn't, then it is a failed microswitch. It is not a difficult job to replace the regulator.
Generally speaking, if you are able to push the window down as you indicated then you have a window regulator problem. As mentioned above, the cables have stretched out and so when the motor runs to lower the window, all it does is take up the slack in the cable. Window regulators are not expensive and they are relatively easy to replace. The hardest part is removing the door panel without scratching it or damaging any of the parts.
Yep, have verified that it is not the mico switches, you can hear everything work from the inside and outside....off to get a new window regulator. Thanks!
The next difficult part besides the removal of the door panel is getting the window reinstalled in the correct position. I marked my glass with a marker when I replaced my window regulator. If I had to do it again, I would probably use tape.
Thanks for the help....bought a regulator off ebay for about $90 and installed it this morning.
The hardest thing was to find the plastic screw in the storage compartment, then the panel would come off! It took a little time to figure out how to set the window up once I got it in.....but going slow I did the whole thing in a little less than 3 hours.
Works perfectly now, drops as it should and goes right back into place! The door panel had never been off. I love the old school German door panels, the new ones, not so much.
So here I am at my old post.....why you ask? Because the window wouldn't drop again any longer, the $90 ebay regulator gave up the ghost and wouldn't drop after about 3 years.....so this time I went and bought a genuine Porsche part, about $225 and installed it in about 1.25 hours. I don't know why I can't learn my lesson......
So whilst Paul has resurfaced the topic....replaced my passenger regulator a while back...sort of in a hurry and outside at night...not ideal. It all works fine, seems adjusted well, *but* when it's all the way down the glass rattles inside the door as if it's loose and moving...any wisdom as to what I missed?
A few theories for you, ion_berkley,
1) Did you tighten the silver brackets enough when you re-inserted the glass in the new regulator? You need to get those pups tight. You'll feel like you're gonna break the glass, but you won't.
2) It may not be the glass itself rattling but rather something rattling against the glass. Are you positive you didn't leave anything dangling in there? Did you re-zip-tie the cable guide to the door frame? When you reinstalled the speaker box, are you positive it was fully secured with all of the original fasteners? I could see it being the window rattling against the speaker box, as well.
Good luck! You may need to get yourself a 6-pack and pry that door trim off again, one weekend, and poke around in there to see if anything is loose.
Check the underbody panels for missing plastic acorn nuts. Two were missing from my car and it about drove me batty. It sounds exactly like the noise is coming from inside the door.
I replaced all of them on the car for about $9.
There are less extreme alternatives between genuine Porsche and ebay regulators and other parts. Pelican Parts and other supply houses usually carry one or more reputable aftermarket alternatives.
If it was $225, I would have bought the genuine Porsche one too, after my experiences in learning the hard way.
However, the rear window regulator on my cab was $750, so I opted to send the assembly for rebuild to Power Window Repair in Phoenix, AZ because they claim to rebuild the part a little better than Porsche originally designed it. And it was $270 total cost including shipping/tax.
Small world, I was over at Submarine Tender getting lunch to take home yesterday when i replied to this thread, drove home on Des Plains and what do I see in front of me? A black cab getting on the Eisenhower......I didn't get all the way up next to you, and I was in my Audi, so I don't know if you would of recognized me, but a small world.