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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHNew to 996 and looking for advice
Leading reported evidence
Replace has a used motor
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Has a used motor from another car that was replaced in 2010.
Leading evidence: 'Replace has a used motor' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'clutch assembly if there is any wear' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean bill of health/ppi' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause
When you do that job, it makes sense to do the RMS at the same time, and likely the clutch assembly if there is any wear.
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Suggestion
If it was a used engine, I'd want history: mileage and other provenance (or at least a clean bill of health/PPI from an unbiased source).
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Suggestion · Original poster
The company that put it in in 2010 said that the motor company would have recommended a new clutch it they thought it needed it.
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Suggestion · Original poster
And yes, I have a German auto repair specialist who would do a PPI on the car before I buy it.
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24 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T205155Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I had a 2006 Cayenne (that I loved) that got totaled 2 years ago. I am now looking at a 2002 996 Carrera 4 Cabriolet with 63K miles in silver for $23K. 18" wheels, Advanced Technic and a few other options.
Has a used motor from another car that was replaced in 2010. The receipt for the used motor says IMS Upgrade. Seller states slight weeping of main rear seal but other than that, the car is in good shape. (no history of clutch replacement)
Any initial thoughts? Anything else I should look for? I am OK (I think) with a RMS and even IMS replacement if I can get the cost down to $20K from the seller.
If you're not sure get a full inspection, does it say what IMS product? Weird they did IMS but no new RMS or clutch. You pretty much have zero records on the other engine? who did the work on the motor swap? the car might have 63k on the clock but what does the motor have?
The used motor receipt says $600 for IMS upgrade on it (sounds like an LN or roller bearing). The company that sold it was out of Ga and they are now out of business. Sigh.
The company that put it in in 2010 said that the motor company would have recommended a new clutch it they thought it needed it. After all, like you say, the motor was easily accessible at that point. The RMS / IMS may have been new (or near new) in 2010 when they sold it.
The company that swapped the engine is out of NJ and they are fairly reputable from what I can see. I know it's not ideal, but the car seems like a pretty good deal, especially if it has been running well for 9 years.
And yes, I have a German auto repair specialist who would do a PPI on the car before I buy it. I am looking for a nice daily driver.
Hard to give much advice without more information. I'd personally be cautious of any car that has an engine swap from a donor vehicle, and doesn't include comprehensive records to accompany it.
With 9 seemingly reliable years on it (it was installed in 2010), I would presume that the engine is OK. Of course the engine could have 180,000+ miles on it, but I would doubt it.
If the engine was replaced in 2010 and only 20,000 miles have been added since, how bad could it possibly be. Particularly if you consider the RMS has lasted at least that long.
I suppose my question is, assuming the engine is in OK shape (sans the weeping RMS), is this a good deal for a daily driver?
If you like the car, go for it.
edit: I think it was dporto that said it on another thread recently, but IMS bearing update isn't generally a permanent fix (except maybe the LN Solution, which wasn't marketed in 2010, AFAIK); the replacement bearings are treated as a wear item with a service life (miles/years). Even if it was replaced in 2010, it is likely due for replacement anyway. When you do that job, it makes sense to do the RMS at the same time, and likely the clutch assembly if there is any wear. The labor to take it apart is the same for all three jobs, so might as well do it while you're there.
Since it is a dealer, negotiate the IMS/RMS service into the deal... They surely have room in the selling price. Or negotiate it off and do the work yourself/with a good indy mechanic. Any knowledgable buyer is going to want either the work done, or the price adjusted to accommodate it and I'm sure they've factored that into their asking price.
I wouldn't be scared off by a replacement engine, but I would want documentation and more info. If it was an AT factory engine, then I'm all for it (you can tell from the engine serial number on the case). If it was a used engine, I'd want history: mileage and other provenance (or at least a clean bill of health/PPI from an unbiased source). I do think it can impact value and salability for a lot of cautious buyers.
My '02 has both an AT engine and a factory replacement transmission, both done by a dealer and I have the invoices. To me that is like having a new car, so a good thing. To the seller, it was priced into the deal as a negative. I suspect that it will be harder to sell if/when I ever try, as compared to a stock numbers matching example, even with clear documentation.
I can ask for the engine serial number. Pardon my noob status here, what is a AT versus just a replacement? My understanding was the engine can from a reputable wrecker who parted it out of just another 911.
And yes, I have an indy right near me that specializes in German cars. He does the work (RMS / IMS) or subs it to a Porsche mechanic that he knows.
As far as resale, point taken. But I tend to hold onto cars until they are beaten to within an inch of death (lol), so I am not concerned about this daily driver's resale.
Porsche factory remanufactured engine serial number includes "AT" while an engine rebuit (or not) from another source would retain the standard engine serial number, which does not include "AT"
I found this thread helpful when looking at a 996 with a reman engine:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-location.html
Your logic is sound and the engine is probably just fine. As I'm sure you've seen in your research, engine failure is exactly unheard of in these cars - so its not out out of character to find one with a replacement. The point is you really don't know how many miles are on it. Without documentation, you have to assume the mileage is equal, or higher than the rest of the car. In my opinion, that's not as nice as knowing for sure what the mileage is - so it knocks the resale value down. If there isn't documentation of the IMS bearing being replaced, then it might as well not have been done as far as resale value is concerned. Just my 2 cents. I don't see anything about what you've posted that makes me think its a screaming deal, so it wouldn't hurt to shop around a bit as well.
Keep shopping. This doesn't blow my skirt up. $20k is a decent price, but no screaming bargain.
If you like it, grab it up and enjoy. Maybe not a lot out there with the same features, C4, cab, tip, technics.
My experience is get what you really want, even if you have to shop for a year, and find it 2000 miles away. If this is your dream 996, write the check.
I absolutely love the look of the car, especially from the back end with those fat tires. And the performance doesn't suck either.
I've been driving a real POS for the past 2 years (after I lost my Cayenne) and this feels a little impulsive. But that is why I want to do the test drive (Saturday @ 10 AM) and get a formal PPI.
BTW - I love these forums. I use them for work and play. Such good advice from people with nothing more to gain than just sharing their experiences.
Also found a quick "in today's money" calculator:
https://www.saving.org/inflation/inf...?amount=91,000
Apparently this is a $129,000 car, less depreciation.
lol
If it was an LN bearing and installed in 2010, there is a good chance it won't be found in the database. A 2002 will have a single row bearing and at nine years old, it's way past its replacement time.
So, the question in my mind is: How do they know that the RMS is "weeping" ? Anyone who knows anything about these engines knows that you can't see the RMS without splitting the engine and transmission. They also know that the IMS(B) and the RMS "weep" at the same spot (at the bottom where the engine and tranny come together). In other words, there's no way to tell what's actually "weeping/leaking"... If the RMS were actually just "weeping", it wouldn't show at all. The fact that you see oil where the engine and transmission meet, means you've got an oil leak (not a "weep"). In addition, you don't know/can't tell whether it's the IMS or the RMS...somebody's blowin' smoke... Subtract $5k for an IMS Solution install (and a new RMS while you're in there) and you'll be looking at a decent deal.
The car is not an C4S. It is just a C4.
The car is here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-Porsch...4/303059996769
I am definitely looking to do the clutch, RMS and new IMS, so negotiation will come into play here. I think I'd be OK with $20K if there is nothing else wrong.
As for tire / wheel size, I will confirm Saturday when I do the test drive .. but if anyone knows the actual sizes, I'd love to hear it.
If it's a keeper then you'll be in for periodically replacing the IMS bearing (yes, even the LN ceramic ones, have a service life), BUT the solution is permanent, so you wouldn't need to do this. Over the long run, the solution would pay for itself (on the order of one bearing replacement if you use a shop or two if you do your own work).
