DIY Oil Sump Pick Up Tube Oil Separator and Baffle

I'm going to replace the following parts and post a step-by-step for other users. It's time for my annual oil change and I've decided to also replace the engine oil sump baffle, the oil pick up tube, and both oil separators, sometimes referred to as "swirl pots." Why? Simply due to age and because I want to , which is good enough for me. I'm not "upgrading" to a larger oil capacity or the X51 baffle. I have the 3.6L engine and my only track time is limited to 20 minute lap sessions once or twice a year at New Jersey Motor Sports Park HPDE. Loctite 5900 Part #: 000-043-204-35-M258 1 Oil Drain Plug Washer (18 X 24 X 1.5 mm Aluminum) Brand: Fischer & Plath Part #: 900-123-106-30-M131 1 Hengst Part #: 996-107-225-60-M45 1 Threadlocker - Loctite 243 Blue, Brand: Loctite Part #: 1330799-M258 Engine Oil Sump Baffle Part #: 997-107-243-00-OEM 1 Oil Pump Pickup Tube Part #: 996-107-075-57-OEM 1 Oil Separator O-Ring (Internal Separator) (12 X 2 mm) Brand: Victor Reinz Part #: 999-701-789-40-M17 2 Oil Separator (Internal), Note: Brand: Genuine Porsche Note: - Part #: 996-107-080-54-M100 2 Oil DT40 Joe Gibbs. I might not get to this for two or three weeks. Need the weather around Philadelphia to get a little warmer. Side note: I just purchased a 2018 Audi SQ5, it is nice!

The oil pickup tube (suction tube) has it's own O-ring and I don't see it on your list (unless it came with a new one). http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=104-05

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Good catch, I'm hoping the one I purchased from Pelican Parts comes with the O-ring that is pictured on their website catalog pic for this part. If not I will order one or run over to the dealer. I have two Porsche dealerships within 10 miles so not too bad.

I know you were not planning on doing a deeper sump, but I have the FVD Brombacher deep sump that I just took off this weekend (went with LN), that I could make you a good deal on if you are interested. I'm local too. Also, a note on the Loctite 5900. The first two times I used it, it was incredibly hard to get out of the tube (like all the pressure I could put on it, and it would come out 1/4 inch at a time). One came from Pelican, and one came from LN, they both had the older part number (which I think is the one you have ordered). I had to get a tube at the dealer this weekend, and it was MUCH easier to get out of the tube. I am not sure if it is because it was a new part number, or it could also be related to the previous two tubes being in the garage, while the stuff I got from the dealer was inside. To be safe, make sure you keep it inside until you are ready to use it.

So what did I find in the oil sump? Nothing! Which is great. To my surprise all of the non metal parts: oil baffle, oil pick up tube, oil foamers (swirl pots) are in like new condition. I was amazed at the complete lack of degradation. Other than oil there was absolutely nothing, no debris, in the pan, oil pick up tube or oil foamers. So in the end it wasn't really necessary for me to drop the sump, but I've had the car three years and thought it was a good idea to check things out for myself. No news is good news. Steps to dropping the oil sump: 1. Jack the car up - if you are new and need to know how to get the car jacked up like mine let me know 2. Drain the oil 2a. Have a roll of paper towels handy and something to catch dripping oil! 3. Remove 11 of the 13 10mm bolts which hold the sump pan in place. Leave 2 of the bolt very loose but not removed. 4. Using an appropriate size pry bar or similar tool, pry the sump pan away from the rest of the sump. Don't jam a screw driver between the sump pan and the main body of the sump, do it the right way. There are specific places (tabs) to assist in prying the sump pan away from the sump body 5. Remove the remaining 2 bolts.

Looks good. How many miles on your car?

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123,000+

The most difficult part of this job BY FAR was getting the Loctite 5900 out of the tube. (as mentioned by Kris Murphy) WTF !!! The laws of physics do not adequately explain why in the world squeezing this stuff out of the tube would be so difficult. Take KM's advice and learn from my experience, DO NOT purchase Loctite 5900 from Pelican Parts (unless they guarantee it's different from the crap I received) and don't purchase the old part number. You have been warned.

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I don't think you have to use that stuff, any high quality automotive RTV should work. The application is very common and getting to the sump plate is very easy.

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It makes zero sense. Literally out of breath, and bruised trying to get the stuff out of the first two tubes I used. On the new tube from the dealer, almost shot half of it out of the tube on first push since I was expecting it to be like the other two, but it came out as you would expect a typical sealant to come out.

FWIW I used Drei Bond "Type 1209" when I did this job, rather than 5900. I don't recall it being particularly hard to work with.

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Yup, this is the sole sealant Jake recommends for engine rebuild, incluidng the oil pan.

I purchased this and it turned out to be a half height tube of 5900 that fits in a caulking gun. I installed an oil pan last night and it was SO easy. SI 5900 Instant Gasket Amazon Amazon

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That's nice. And cost the same as the regular size at the dealer..., the things you do when you run out of sealant on a Saturday.

I like Reinzosil - comes in a small tube with a metal key to turn which smoothly dispenses the sealant. I did the 5900 the first time and like you, it was very hard. Amazon Amazon