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YOUR RESEARCHHeadlight restoration
Leading reported evidence
Replace s class headlights due
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I just replaced my S Class headlights due to this reason.
Leading evidence: 'Replace s class headlights due' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean before painting' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Without a paint booth seem impossible to keep the surface clean before painting.
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Suggestion
After you clean every bit of dust to prep for clear, put the storage bin upside down over the assembly to seal it off from dust.
Use large plastic storage bin (get one large enough
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Suggestion
For the dust, I would think you could eliminate almost all of it just by using a large plastic storage bin (get one large enough to easily cover the entire headlight assembly).
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Generation: 20261026T135432Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Did mine this weekend using the stuff pictured below. Worked well, aside from dust in the clear. Without a paint booth seem impossible to keep the surface clean before painting.
I bought the 3m Advanced headlight resto kit. The key here is that you hand sand the light. I found this allowed better control. Sanded N to S first run, then E to W on second grit and so on. This allows you to easily see when the scratches are removed from the previous grit. No need to go to the polishing step if you clear coat. In fact, you shouldn�t polish them so there is a tooth for the paint to grip. Bought everything on Amazon. Use a respirator as the clear is full of carcinogens.
Looks great! I'm fraidy-scared to do mine. A couple of years ago I tried polishing a watch crystal after reading a DIY and that turned into a disaster. Luckily my headlights aren't bad at present, but I'll seek out professional help when the time comes. Yours came out great.
Thanks. I would consider doing these for others if I had a spray booth. These look good from a few feet. Any closer and you can see the dust. I may wet sand and
polish them to see what happens.
Wow....what I did was I actually sanded them with finer and finer grit ending with 3000 for the polish. Then had xpel put on for UV protection. It was a lot of work (at least two hours per light) Your system looks a lot simpler faster. MAy be worth the dust imperfections.
"Thumbs up" on the 3M Restoration Kit, I have used it on several cars (mine,hers, kid's).But once done, I have always applied the XPEL overlays to preserve the benefits.
relinuca
I considered buying the 3M clear vinyl and applying it instead of the clear coat but was concerned about longevity. With this clear, it is UV resistant and pretty tough and very clear. (Its two part paint so pot life is only48 hours after activation). A small paint booth would have made these look factory. I turned on the headlight this morning and to my surprise, the dust is barely noticeable. With any luck, they will last another 15 years.
My process took about 10 hours total, including drying time between coats. I have to say, even with the dust particles, these look pretty good. I showed some coworkers and they didn�t see the dust. If the clear coat lasts then this is a very achievable and repeatable solution to cloudy headlights provided the inside of the lens is in good condition.
Yeah, while you may have taken longer, overall it sounds like less work. I was hand sanding and polishing for 6 hours straight....I will experiment with your method a broken 997 light and see results before I try on a good set. Great work and thanks for sharing.
That came out nice. I had mine polished a few months ago and they looked great directly afterwards, but some yellowing came back. I did not add any laminate afterwards, but I probably should have.
How aggressive of sand paper can you use.
I took my car to a local detailer who is really good.
He used 2000 grit and an aggressive compound and could not get deep enough to the terrble scratching on my lights.
What have you folks used for deep scratches?
We do them at our shop. Start at 500. then 800. then 1500. then 3000 wet. finish with a waffle pad and compound then polish. Turns out like new. You must take your time and be methodical. Rushing it will end in a horrible outcome. Each step MUST remove the previous grit scratches.
Alternatively, after the wet sanding with 3000 grit, coat with a 2!part clear. No only does this provide a clear finish, it will provide the necessary UV protection like the factory finish. Otherwise, you will be redoing the process again in a year.
For the dust, I would think you could eliminate almost all of it just by using a large plastic storage bin (get one large enough to easily cover the entire headlight assembly). After you clean every bit of dust to prep for clear, put the storage bin upside down over the assembly to seal it off from dust. Only remove the bin when you are ready to immediately shoot the clear. Immediately after the clear, put the bin back on again, but this time with some short pieces of 2" x 4"s (or whatever) under the bin edges to raise the bin off the ground an inch or two. This will allow some airflow from the bottom (for drying). You can also put something under the headlight so that the cleared part of the headlight is as high as the bin has room for, so the cleared surface is much higher than the air inlet and is fully covered by the bin to prevent any dust settling while it dries.
Is there any warning you can give or highlight that might involve using such aggressive grit?
Can the plastic housing be damaged by heat, discoloration or warping?
Is there any members who have established a business that refurbishes 996 or other Porsche headlights?
There are many many factors that come in to play. Yes, you can damage them by heat. The trick is to you a lower speed drill and stay moving. Do not sit in one place for too long. When you begin the dust coming off will be as yellow as the lights. Keep and i stress the word keep sanding untill the dust coming off is a snowy white powder. Once you get to that point and the lens looks the same change to the next grit. Repeat with each grit taking 5 to 7 mins per light.
You can EASILY do this at home using
This
product and watching
This
video.
I used the 3M kit on my headlights. The exterior appearance is great and it removed all of the yellowing. There seems to be some cloudy patterns on the back side of the lens that can't be removed with the headlight kit. Will the clearbra application help this pattern not to be as apparent? I really don't want to take the lights apart.
Kyle
No. It dosen't matter which of the dozens of types of kits or methods you choose. If their is any cracking or hazing that is actually inside the lens it cannot be corrected.
Several reason. Most beyond your control. I just replaced my S Class headlights due to this reason. Mine were due to the heat put off by the fog lights. Some are stressed induced. Here are 2 pics. The first is a pic i stole from google thats a good example of headlight cracking. The 2nd is one that any 996 C4S or Turbo owner is familiar with. Every taillight on the wide body cars has these 2 cracks.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
