23 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
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YOUR RESEARCHOil Pressure at Startup
Leading reported evidence
Replace every 5k
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Leading evidence: 'Replace every 5k' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check oil filter' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I use 5/40 LiquiMolly Oil and have the LN Spin On filter.
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Suggestion
I would start with checking the oil filter and then dropping the pan.
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Suggestion
Might even pull the pan and check your oil pick up tube and o-ring to make sure your not sucking air or allowing oil to drain.
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Suggestion
If not, remove the sump plate and check the oil pick-up mesh.
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23 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Hey guys...everyone has helped me out a lot on here, and looking for some new advice.
I recently got my car back after having the Variocam solenoid replaced at 108k miles. I noticed yesterday that my car is making a somewhat loud knock/rattle sound for about 5 seconds when starting up first thing in the morning. The oil light stays on for about 5 seconds and I do not see oil pressure building on the gauge. After about 5 seconds, the light goes off, the oil pressure builds, and the engine smooths out and sounds fine. The car will start fine for the rest of the day with no odd noises or low pressure at startup.
Oil level is normal. Oil is changed every 5k. 108k miles on car.
Any my thoughts or ideas?
Thanks
At startup when cold, it�s always had a bit of clatter, which seemed normal based on other people experiencing the same thing.
Does not sound normal. Oil pressure should go up much sooner. Mine does in 1 second.
Perhaps oil is draining out of the filter - is there an anti drain-back valve that prevents oil from draining out of the oil filter housing on these cars?
one thousand one....one thousand two....one thousand three....5 seconds to bring up oil pressure is not good. Something is wrong. You say oil was changed...was the filter changed? Stock oil filter? What weight oil? Your oil pressure relief valve might be sticking. There is an upgraded valve and you might consider replacing that. You need some experienced help with this, because not only is it not normal, but with knocking and rattling, and no oil pressure, you are going to destroy your engine. Do not start again until you have someone on hand that knows these engines.
You might have a twisted filter element if it's been over tightened it collapses the filter element inside the canister making flow difficult I'd bet it's this , worth checking if it was ok before!
Oil pressure sender, Maybe? Wouldn't explain the knock noise. When mine went glitchy, it was while driving and would suddenly drop to zero, then back to appropriate pressure quickly. Just a thought.
5 seconds seems like an eternity. If it is really that long then you definitely need to do some investigating. Mine will rattle the timing chains if it's been sitting for a couple of days, but it isn't for more than a second.
Mine has oil pressure when cranking.
I wouldn't start yours until I'd figured out what's going on.
I would start with checking the oil filter and then dropping the pan.
If you're not a DIY'er, have it towed to an Indy to have them diagnose.
Don't drive it even if they're just a few blocks away.
Thanks for all of the input. I use 5/40 LiquiMolly Oil and have the LN Spin On filter. One piece of information that might be relevant is that I had the Variocam Solenoid/Actuator replaced at my Indy about two days before I noticed this issue. Before I call them back up, I'm wondering if any of their work coudl've caused this oil pressure issue. I've read about poor re-sealing jobs that could lead to potential issues.
To replace the solenoid/actuator the cam cover has to come off. If the cam cover was leaking oil and causing the oil pressure problem, you would know it. What else did they do? Seems almost like the oil sump pickup tube is sucking air, the pickup tube is clogged with debris, or something is clogged internally. It might be wise and a good precaution to replace the oil filter and cut it open. Oil pressure should be there the moment the engine turns over.
Its possible, absolutely. However, it�s easy to blame a mechanic based on �it was fine before,� however you must try to find the source of the problem first. I would suggest doing what the other folks suggested - pull the filter first, check the pressure relief valve, then the sump plate. If the oil filter canister is dry, that�s a great hint as to the problem. It should be full of oil.
Just change out the oil filter first and see if it changes anything. If not, remove the sump plate and check the oil pick-up mesh.
What is your oil pressure at 4k rpm AFTER engine is fully warmed up?
I know nothing about the Variocam on this engine (I sort of wandered in here by accident) - but know a lot about it on Cayenne engines. On the Cayenne there is a check-valve in the Variocam oil flow path to keep oil from draining out of the system. If it did drain out of the system it would end up with symptoms like this - no oil pressure until the entire oil path is refilled.
Eilenberger's Law of Troubleshooting:
"Look where you last worked.." (or in this case - where your mechanic last worked.) It's possible the Variocam control solenoid has the check valve as part of it - or functions as one when power goes off. Either way - too much of a coincidence for it to start doing this right after that system was worked on. I think this will give you an opportunity to learn how honest your independent mechanic is.
BTW - I noticed your comment about the spin-on-filter. I assume this is a modification allowing you to use a standard spin-on type oil filter. Most of these types of oil filters have a flow-back check valve in them (rubber diaphragm) and an overpressure relief valve in case the filter plugs up. Either of these could fail. A new filter might provide the cure.
There was a 996 with a mild knock for a few seconds at cold start up at a friend's shop. The shop owner recommended 2 qts of Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer when changing the oil. He says it is low oil pressure and common on the 996. He says the Lucas product sticks to everything and helps increase oil pressure at start up.
Disagree. These guys build engines. Low oil pressure
for a few seconds
at cold start up is common on 996s.
Let's rip down the engine due to a minor noise.
Are you an engine builder?
Nope. Not a mechanic or an engine builder. I work at taco bell! Never seen the inside of an engine. Well, i take that back, i watch hotrod tv and have youtube!
Sorry ...not to hijack but,
I've been having the same thing recently, first I thought it was the gauge because the first time it happened I "smacked" the dash and coinceidentaly it jumped back up, then it has happened a few times since and it "aint" the gauge....gives a GONG and a dash warning gaugge drops to 0 then 2 seconts later its back at 4 - 5...sender?
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