49 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHMy new ride
Leading reported evidence
Replace bellows, bearing assemblies, bump stops, and top plates
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Replaced bellows, bearing assemblies, bump stops, and top plates for another $100 per side.
Leading evidence: 'Replace bellows, bearing assemblies, bump stops, and top plates' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check drain plugs' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Ended up with clean �pans� - then used my piece of string trimmer line to test the drain line to the bottom of the car.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
I'll also check the drain plugs, which I did see images of in another post.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Agreed that air is best to clean the lines if they are normally maintained, but mine may have never been touched since new - the �mud� was pretty solid in the �pan�.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
49 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Looks like a beauty! Just wondering about the "graphite blue" color description (probably just a mistake by the dealer - it's amazing how little they know sometimes...Unless it's a custom PTS, or a re-paint)... AFAIK Midnight Blue Metallic, Cobalt Blue Metallic, and Lapis Blue Metallic were the only stock Blue's available. When you get a chance, look for the paint code on the sticker under the Frunk lid. I love the natural brown interior
Good luck with 'er
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/640x1136/bae8cfcf_e309_48bb_9266_1f8a12a748e7_fadf07e7b4e66d9f8639711f6faf6e560b114394.jpeg
Really excited (did I say excited?,,,lol). I had an 06 Cayenne for a while and loved it.
I sent the check today and expect to get this to NJ in 2 weeks.
My first task is to go get a LN IMS Solution. I tend to drive cars to within an inch of death and I don't want the IMS to be the cause.
I honestly believe the 996 will become one of those classics that no one expected. I actually like the egg-eyes...go figure.
Be gentle on me as I ask dumb questions (winter tires / din radios / etc). I'll pull my weight when I can!
😁
So the new ride showed up today. Wish I had a Pro do the PPI but live and learn. It seems solid, just a few nagging issues, which if anyone can make suggestions, I would be appreciative:
* Rotors have a
serious
lip on all 4 corners. Pads look OK. Going to order ATE rotors for all 4 corners. They (ATE) seem to fairly well rated.
* I have the sport exhaust option. NADA when I turn it on. Light comes on but no change in tone. Can't tell if it's open all the time or closed. I'm thinking actuator or maybe fuse (if there is one).
* The plastic piece covering the battery area is lose. The plastic push pins are there but it looks like they don't hold. Is there a corresponding plastic piece that should insert into the square metal bracket?
* Damp under passenger rear seat. This is a cabriolet. Water drops on the passenger rear seat when I got it. It had rained for some time before delivery
Thanks from a 996 newbie.
Very nice. The issues are minor. New rotors and pads are a good thing.
Can't help with the exhaust question - but there should be a plastic (nylon?) piece that the battery lid fasteners engage with.
You stated it's a cab. Water will find its way in, in a few places. A lot of diligence will be needed to make it really water-tight.
Enjoy. We're all pulling for you. Keep your stick on the ice.
The PSE mufflers have solenoid valves in an exhaust bypass that are actuated by the switch on the dash, through vacuum lines. Default is open (louder). The valve should close to make it quieter when you push the button.
If you can feel a lip on the rotors replace them.
I've actually never felt such a pronounced lip on any car I ever owned, especially in the back. Worries me a bit for what else was neglected.
I was going to just replace the rotors because the pads are still meaty, but the rotors are wavy as well. So it's new pads and rotors.
My guess would be that it's the vacuum line that probably went hard and cracked. Looks like I am buying a shop manual.
No way I'm paying someone else to do all the work this thing is going to need.
Don't mess around with this. I would be most concerned about this of everything on your list. Could be the top itself or a window seal since you saw water on the seat which is higher up, but could be related to the rear water drains. Pretty easy to identify once you have knowledge of how the drains work.
Start by removing the rear speakers. Look in there and you'll see a water channel (I call it the waterfall.) Which leads to a basin where the water collects as water rolls off the conv. top. There is a hole in the bottom which drains down and out in front of the rear tires on each side via a tube. Either the the hole in the basin is partially blocked and if it rains hard enough and long enough it will over flow into the cabin and work its way to the electronics under the drivers seat. You don't want this to happen! Or, the drain outlet from that hole to the rear tire outlet is clogged. You have to remove the tires and peel back the fender well to expose the outlet. The outlet has a very flexible rubber flap to prevent dirt and grime from entering but still allows the water to flow out. If the car is parked where debris is allowed to fall on your car it can accumulate slowly and clog the system over time. Once again, fairly easy but time consuming, and it's all labor (no parts.) I check mine yearly.
Mine once had a piece of foam or piece of insulation come loose and fall into the basin. Luckily it didn't clog the hole and I never let my car sit out side for the most part. That said it only take one good rain and either side be clogged.
Follow up with me if you want more direction.
After looking at various posts, I wrote my own list of things to check. The leak was on the top because of the electronics in that area. I will look tomorrow.
Unfortunately most of the 'leak' posts I saw pointed to general areas without pictures of what exactly to check. Your speaker removal note helps significantly. Many thanks.
I'll also check the drain plugs, which I did see images of in another post.
So this is 996 ownership...
I'm sure it will be worth it ... and hopefully/strangely satisfying, knowing I fixed it myself.
I'll pm you if I get stuck (if you don't mind)
And a little levity here.
I am not a big wrencher but with an engineering degree, I can figure **** out. That being said....
My office, where the car was delivered to, is right next to a microbrewery. Yes, 50 feet away...ahhhh.
A friend of a friend having a beer, who also owns a 996, came over to look at the car. Thinking he wrenched, I said "feel that lip on the rotor". So he did. He then said to me "Is that only available on the 4S?"
Nice guy but OMG...
sigh
All In all, seems to really nice for a car it’s age. Your not gonna get a car that is going to be 100 percent perfect. I think you did very well overall.
Thanks for the encouragement. I got it at a good price so even if I have to spend $5k to get it in good/great shape, I think it'll be a good day.
Another quickie question:
the suspension feels harsher than the other 996s I test drive. When I looked at the shocks in the front, I saw yellow.
Any thoughts on the bilstein shocks i saw?
Just replaced both my front struts myself. Once I got them off they were absolutely shot. $200 per strut for new Bilstein B6 heavy duty on Rock Auto's website. Replaced bellows, bearing assemblies, bump stops, and top plates for another $100 per side. Reused the springs. Replaced drop links as they were shot. Coffin and trailing control arms looked good, both bushing and ball joint ends. Steering ball joints which I separated to make the job easier could have been replaced as the boots were showing some slight cracks but still preformed fine. Easy enough to do them later.
All in $630 for parts, indy wanting $2,200.
Took 3 hours and just the tools in my garage. Shoot me a PM if you go at it and I can walk you thru it with a few key secrets to make things go smoother. No need for alignment the way I did it. No loosening the control arms and no spring compressor needed.
Front end is much tighter and solid feeling with less harshness, well worth it. Rock solid over speed bumps. Car has 73,000 miles.
Doing rears next and then rotors, pads and sensors next. Bought all the parts already.
Congrats and welcome to the madness. Did this car have any service history? Once you get through your initial check list, other things will need a closer look. All the plastic vacuum line on the engine get very brittle as does the oil fill tube. Be very careful while poking around in there and don't forget to unhook the oil fill tube should you ever remove your air filter box.
Suspension bushing s(if original) need a close inspection. Some things can't be seen until the part is off...See my pic as an example.
Enjoy, these are great cars!
Pelican Parts has some great tech Articles and YouTube has some good DIY videos.
Well I took the plunge with my first 996 project. Removed wheels, 2 rear interior panels, etc.
Drivers side looked ok. Drained well. Passenger side was clogged AND the short drain hose (8" line that drains into the pan) behind the speaker was disconnected at the body panel. Damnnnnn....
Brushed clean and blew air from inside the car to further clear the line.
I saw that the black baffle was missing on the right side. Piece looks like a splash guard for the speakers?
Also, the drain in the wheel well extended beyond the body panel. Should it be flush?
Brake rotors and pads next weekend.
I need to do this too. In your opinion would it be possible to clean the drains just by removing the speakers? Also can this area be accessed when the top is partially raised? I�d rather not pull the fender liners if I can avoid it, but like you there was some dampness at the front of the rear seats when I brought mine home in January. Dry now, but the car is always parked inside. Just pulled the hardtop today, and want to make sure that if I do get caught in the rain the water stays on the outside of the car.
Thanks!
Daryll
You can blow the lines by just removing the speakers, regardless of top position.
My concern would be separating any lines in the body from too much air pressure. Go easy and you should be OK.
Others who have more experience can probably chime in.
Great - thank you very much! I�ve always cleaned sunroof drain lines with a piece of string trimmer line - will that work on these instead of compressed air? Looks like I have my Sunday project!
Daryll
Congrats,
If yellow, sounds like they have been replaced w Bilsteins , Check Rear also, when you remove wheels to change rotors.
As for rotors, some people replace Pads and don't buy rotors, So that sounds the case or previous owner has hard pads pads on it. How much pad left? ATE, Zimmerman are good street rotors at good price, I get mine from RMeuropean.com
If it came from Ormond/Daytona/NSB Beach area they get some tremendous rain, so it doesn't surprise me, Check your drains.
Definitely Bilsteins in the front. Back is black / stock?
I'm replacing all brake stuff with ATE (rotor / pad) next weekend. Getting them from Pelican.
physical inspection is best,my 99 cabs black corrugated line from water �trough � was disintegrated allowing water to enter interior of car.I replaced it with clear aquarium tubing.Blowing through with compressed air will not tell you if line is disconnected or disintegrated.It is best to pull back or remove rear wheel well liner to check out flow of exit,the do tend to clog depending on your locations detritus,leave pieces etc.
When you remove or peel back wheel liner you will just see the round section looking at you.(in front of rear wheel) if yours still has round rubber flapper behind it you might find partial or fully clogged.I disassembled a 03 cab and its lines from the �trough� were disintegrated. Regards.
I agree compressed air is never a good idea. Can actually blow the line loose altogether especially if you do it to the front drain lines.
Mpfaff,
So are you saying the white tube shown in your picture from the what you call "the trough" I call it the "basin" deteriorated? The one that comes from the trough/basin hole and has the outlet end with the three support bars and the thin rubber flap. Because in your picture it is neither black nor corrugated.
....Or do you mean the 8 inch or so black corrugated line that attaches to a nipple on the inner body panel just above the trough/basin, and then the drain end clamps into a clip which allows that end to spill into the trough/basin? I have some pictures in another thread I can use if you're not sure what I mean.
OK - removed the speakers, and found that the plastic water �pan� was completely full of mud and debris. Cleaned this up by scraping the �mud� up and using a shop vac to remove. Ended up with clean �pans� - then used my piece of string trimmer line to test the drain line to the bottom of the car. String went in a foot or two with no resistance, so my next step with to test with actual water. Poured some into the �pan� and was happy when it ended up on the floor through the drain. So hopefully this was a successful project. The one thing that I still need to test is to pour some water on the top and see if it drains properly to the bottom.
Agreed that air is best to clean the lines if they are normally maintained, but mine may have never been touched since new - the �mud� was pretty solid in the �pan�. Hopefully this prevents water from getting inside. I�m still a little confused about the purpose of the short pieces of black corrugated tubing that are clipped to the �pan�. It appears that the water from the outside runs down a longer plastic �sluice� to get to the �pan�, so I�m not sure of the purpose of the tubes.
At some point I will still get behind the fender liner and see what condition the drain tubes are in based on the other recommendations here. At least I�m in better shape than I was this morning. Thanks for your help!
Daryll
Uh oh. Looks like I�m pulling speakers again to make sure that the short black corrugated tubes are connected to the nipple. Mine may not have been connected. Darn - was hoping that I was done...
Daryll
check out my post #17 here...
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...96-cabs-2.html
arrow D in the photo is the black corrugated line which connects to nipple on the body and clips in over the basin.
post #21 shows what I replaced this line with.....
Thank you Rolex! The pictures are great - your insides were much cleaner than mine - but good info on the corrugated tube. Will do your aquarium tube repair as suggested in the next few days. I was actually on that thread a week or so ago asking about water but that seems to be answered.
Daryll
Pictures of the infamous drainage system.When the black corrugated �hose� disintegrates or comes off of the nipple it doesn�t dump into the basin/trough and fills up the rear footwell and will eventually migrate under the seat soaking important electronics.There is a �o� ring in the corrugated hose on the nipple side to help seal it.
