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YOUR RESEARCH911 (HELP) F'n Frunk Lock Out
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immoveable object
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Leading evidence: 'immoveable object' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'immoveable object' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check towhook plug' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
The PO is a meatball and I doubt he even know how to use a screw driver or wrench...I will find it!
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
45 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Outcome without a verified action link
So the fuse box jumper didn't work, and the jumper points in the engine bay didn't work either.
I've searched and read and looked and that damn cable is nowhere to be found. Thank goodness the PO pulled the wheel locks lugs. Took the tire off and pulled the fender liner.
I can see a lot of leaves in the rad area and obviously need to pull the bumper. Will I be able to with out opening the Frunk?
No luck using a heavy duty jumper box or spare battery at the fuse box emergency terminal.
I did find the one in the rear and discovered the lid strut is shot (the hard way) lol.
https://www.renntech.org/forums/uplo...357588109.jpeg
I know what I'm looking for but I'm not seeing it from the wheel well.
I can see a little faded and brittle looking red (see link below) thing in the gap just left of the hood emblem...Can I slide it to the right and open it that way?
https://www.partsgeek.com/7ctvybm-po...-assembly.html
My understanding is the release is inside the passenger wheel well near the front, but not visible. You have to feel for it.
The red lever is simply the safety release, so trying to move that probably won't do it. If it did it would make the car too vulnerable to theft.
I keep the locking wheel nut tool in the center console after hearing tales like your.
No, you cannot remove the front bumper without having the frunk open. The emergency release cable usually is up in the passenger side headlamp tray, laying up inside the light housing area. I cannot over emphasize the constant reminder that owners, while having an open and working frunk, locate the emergency release cable and relocate to an accessible location such as just behind the tow hook plug. It only takes one time of being locked out of your frunk to understand the wisdom of doing this. So the fuse box jumper didn't work, and the jumper points in the engine bay didn't work either. Good luck!
Fresh battery with good jumper cables on the fuse box connection and a good ground point(door latch loop in threshold) usually works if the opener solenoid is good. Previous owner didn't pull battery cable and shut frunk lid...right? Do you have power to the rest of the car? DB is right did you try the jumper point in the engine compartment? Not to start but to feed the system 12 volts. The red lever you see is the safety catch release, I think and probably won't open the frunk. This is the one that keeps the frunk from folding over the windshield while driving if the hood is not closed properly.
If the jumper in the engine bay didn’t work the trunk solenoid might be trashed. Did P.O. move it? Did you check the towhook plug? I have mine relocated to the radiator inlet.
I sure do like my nice old fashion cable release! I was thinking. The reason that both the fuse box method and the engine jumper point did not work is maybe the PO took the negative lead off the battery, and you need that to complete the circuit. You have to find the emergency release cable. You are going to have to fish your hand up there next to the headlight tray and feel around for a small metallic cable with a loop on the end. Make sure it is not already behind the tow hook plug, or hanging down somewhere under the passenger side front of the car.
Yah, I have a 4" and a 6" just incase.
Not in the tow hook area and I reached in as far as I could from the wheel well area with no luck. I never tried hooking up the jumper in the engine bay (didn't know about it at the time)
I tried fishing around under the light and will continue once I get back down to the car if the engine bay jump spot fails me.
The PO is a meatball and I doubt he even know how to use a screw driver or wrench...I will find it!
On a side not, it's amazing how much debris get sucked into the bumper inlets!
This is where the wire is normally, up near the side of the passenger side head light. One other idea, pop the sidelamp out and see if you can see it or fish around with a coat hangar hook. If you undo the one screw behind the sidelamp, you might be able to wedge some space so you can get a better look.
Yes indeed! Puzzling to say the least. My guess is they wanted to keep it fairly inaccessible for security reasons. Interesting that they put it behind the passenger side light, and to remove the light you have to have access to the frunk. However, you are really screwed if the battery is dead or broken and you can't get the frunk lid open any other way. Especially if your lug nut lock socket is in the frunk as well. Pulling the wheel liner is a bear with the wheel still on. This is why my release cable now resides behind the tow hook plug on the front bumper. And I ditched locking lug nuts/bolts a long time ago. Who steals wheels? I don't live in a place where I could ever seen that happening. Figure if they want them that bad they will know how to defeat a lock lug bolt easily.
Here's hoping that Bill gets to the engine bay jumper points and it works. Give that thing some real juice!
Joe, with the wheel well liner off the side marker window (tried that first) is of no use.
fpb111, yes.
I'll report back after my next excursion...Gonna be real pissed off if I discover no battery or one that's not hooked up!! If that's the case will the engine jump points power up the latches/actuators?
What a pain in the ****! Liking my "old school" 99's cable lever even more now.
BTW, how would you be able to access the cable by removing the headlight if you can't open the frunk??
Yes it should provide power to the power distribution box #16 via the engine bay terminals. Just kind of think of it as a reverse flow to the power distribution box. Rather than coming from the battery, the 12V is coming from the engine bay terminals. Just make sure you get a really good ground and solid 12V to the terminals. Remember that it will take some amps to light it up. A simple trickle charger is not going to work. Suggest either hooking up a good working battery, or jump from another running vehicle.
Yes, NEVER use a battery charger on the car's system electronics if the battery is disconnected.
The charger output is not a steady state DC voltage and a connected battery acts to filter the charger's output.
Better to use another battery.
Got, will jump from my running vehicle. Thanks all. I rally thought I'd done enough homework before getting to this point.
Why are the simple things always so difficult? Not just P cars...
Actually Bill, IMHO these are not simple things. It really amounts to knowledge and asking for help when you don't know the answer or have the knowledge. You will get it sorted out and everything will be fine.
DB: Not to hijack but I did the "remove the rubber cover underneath the frunk lid around the latch". Located the liteweight cable running to the right side of car. Tried to pull it out to reroute to the tow hook area. It was the immoveable object. What was I doing wrong or did I just not yank on it hard enough??
I just rerouted mine this past weekend. It was very difficult to get it free but it did come loose. I was about ready to release the headlight as I thought it might be causing it to be stuck.
Here you can see #12 - the emergency release cable. It should be loose and long enough to put the loop end to the tow hook plug. Have you located the looped end? Is it stuck on something?
So there's a 50/50 chance that if I want to steal the contents of your frunk I can do so by just popping off the tow hook plug and pulling the cable.
Earlier this year I did some shopping at Men's Wearhouse, bought about 2K worth of clothes for a European vacation. As I was putting them in the frunk and going off to get a bit to eat, I got very paranoid that someone who knew these cars could access my frunk if they knew this. I actually skipped lunch and went directly home. I do have this insecure feeling every time i put anything of value in my frunk.
There are way easier pickings out there! I constantly read where degenerates go through neighborhoods at night (or the mall parking lots) and find the car doors unlocked in the driveway and either the keys in the console, or sometimes even in the ignition. They ransack the cars taking whatever, and take the car if the keys are in there. Crimes of opportunity. Look, if you're driving a Porsche you are already a target. Most people either see us as egomaniacs, rich with boy toys, or old bald men with expensive toys looking for hookers and blow. They don't really see us as proud owners with amazing cars. I do not worry that some one will walk up to my car, take out the tow plug hook and pop open the trunk. Aside from the other 996 ways the car will meet its doom, this is not one to worry about. 9.9 times out of 10 there is nothing in my frunk except the spare and maybe bags of groceries. Car is in the garage at home every night. Now if I lived in a big city and the car was parked on the street every night with lots of pedestrians walking by, well, I might consider a different tactic. But as it stands, I don't worry about it.
Where I park my car at the office every day....a large city parking lot with homeless people and low lifes in every direction. Not once in 10 years has my car been touched or molested. In fact, have gotten some nice compliments from them on the car. Everyone appreciates the 911 styling! Now the guys with the pickups who tailgate me out of some sort of weird suppressed sense of rage...huh
As I'm sure you know I said it half tongue & cheek, but when I do put something of value in the frunk and leave it in a public place (i.e. parking lot) it always crosses my mind. Never crosses my mind in my Mercedes E class.
Question: Will the alarm go off if the alarm is armed and the cable is used?
Success! No way I was getting to that cable without pulling the headlight first. My forearm could not fit through the air ducts. Also the cable seems to be frozen unless it can't be pulled with the frunk open...
Next,
Who puts a MAF sensor so the locking tab is on the backside? I could not get it to budge and feared breaking it. Oh the "madness"!
I could not get it unclipped. Guess I'll unscrew the sensor then pull the airbox. Lots of really brittle plastic in this engine.
I found the oil filler broken and I think I did it as there was pressure when I opened the cap yesterday.
Yep, that's how I did it. Easier to remove the 2 screws, pull the sensor out then unhinge the clip. Took all of 5 mins to replace. Just need to go gently. If you ever need tips on pulling off the door panel and lock mechanism let me know. I've pulled the panel so many times I've got it down to 10 mins..... not by choice.
Bill, the MAF plug is composed of a soft rubbery boot (top), and the harder plastic lower plug portion. When you're pinching on the backside of the MAF, pinch more on the top, soft rubbery boot part. I learned that after pinching more on the hard plastic part for the better part of 10 minutes without it budging. Once you feel the release button underneath the soft rubber you'll push down on it and it will practically pop right off with a little pull outwards.
So Bill, did you access the frunk release by powering up the 12v lug in the engine compartment? Did you locate the trunk release cable by pulling the front headlight?
