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YOUR RESEARCHH&R or GT3 AR bars?
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Replace some things
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Two friends of mine (996 C2 MkI and 996 C4 MkI) changed some things to make the cars more sportive (well balance in daily and track use):
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The main group I run with (Golden Gate Region) has a points system.
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H&R's are bigger and is used for the stiffer frame of the awd models.
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Suggestion
Make sure you don't bump yourself out of the racing class you want to be in by changing AR or going to a non "porsche" factory AR.
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I have 1999 C2 that I drive about 3x a week. I also would like to AX it. It is totally stock. I'd like to put adjustable AR bars on it to help with turning. But I also want to keep the softer ride. I've got a Spec Boxster for the track, which has GT3 bars front and rear.
Do the H&R's work well for AX? Believe it or not, I'd rather keep the stock drop links if possible as I want rubber inside the system to keep noise and vibration to a minimum in the cabin. But if they do not work well, I know the GT3 bars well and will go that route.
I'm interested in who has the H&R's or GT3's on their car and if the GT3 bars in particular transmit noise into the cabin.
Thanks,
Bill P.
Hi Andy,
I'm not worried about classing. I'm currently AXing the car for fun. Part of the fun is getting it to turn. The main group I run with (Golden Gate Region) has a points system. The car will be competitive in any of the classes that it falls into.
Thanks,
Bill P.
Suspension is currently stock. I'm not a fan of going stiffer with PSS9's, so I may do the ROW M030 or H&R/Bistein Sport route. Or I may keep it on stock springs/struts. With the points system, I can configure as I go.
Thanks,
Bill P.
Hi Paul,
The rules for Spec Boxster specify part numbers for either H&R AR bars or for GT3 / Tarett Engineering AR bars. The BSR cars need adjustable AR bars as they are understeering pigs without them!
I probably need to be a little clearer on what I want to do with the 996. My wife and I currently campaign a Spec Boxster W2W. We have the tow vehicle and 20 foot enclosed trailer. I co-own/drive (2) other cars, 1 track 914-6 with a Sheridan kit and one lightweight 914-4 on slicks with a 200HP type IV motor in it. In 6 starts the 914-4 has 3 TTOD's at AX's. We're still sorting it but the car will be good.
My race partner is concentrating on the AX side, I'm concentrating on the W2W side. My wife and I both like to AX, but with the track schedule and kids, jobs, house, dog, etc. time is at a premium. To go AXing and enjoy the fun and friends, I don't want to trailer our race car. I'd rather get into our 996 and just play when I want to. I don't even care what class I'm in. But I want the car to be fun to drive. Right now in stock form the 996 understeers.
I'm thinking that a set of V710s (they need less camber than most DOT R's and wear nicely) and some AR bars to help with car rotation and the car would be fun to play with. And best of all I wouldn't have to trailer to the event. Reduced prep and hassle. I also DO NOT want the car as stiff as the stock PSS9 ride gives you. Ride is subjective, and in my butt-o-meter I like the cushy ride my 996 gives me. If I can dial out the understeer with AR bars, I'll halve a great time. That's why I'm looking for someone with the H&R or GT3 setup on a mostly stock car. If the car rotates.....I'm good to go!
Thanks,
Bill P.
Hi Bill,
I understand that.. It is just that I didn't know that a rear 996 based GT3 sway bar would fit at all on a boxster. I know the the fronts are the same ...
Bill,
I think for the 996 what you want is to put in the GT3 front and rear adjustable sway bars and you can tune nearly all the understeer out of the car along with a good alignment.
I don't recall if sway bars are free or not or if they will bump you up a class.
Another angle to stay in stock is the factory M030 either US or ROW (ROW being lower) and the associated M030 sway bars will help you out a lot and the car will stay in stock class. The GT3 bars are considerably better though.
Thanks for the replies guys!
Do any of you run the GT3 bars with the spherical drop links? I have them on the race car, but I would like to know if you're hearing "clunking" in your street cars.
Thanks,
Bill P.
Two friends of mine (996 C2 MkI and 996 C4 MkI) changed some things to make the cars more sportive (well balance in daily and track use):
- Bilstein sprint shocks B8
- Gemballa springs
- Eibach Racing sway bars
- Metallic brake lines
- ATE Superblue Racing brake fluid
- Blue Pagid brake pads
- new allingment
I drove both cars and they changed substantially. The improvement was really high, and the only thing you need, it's to look fot best compromise in the set up between rear and front axles (both trains)
Here is a report:
http://www.pasionporsche.com/newsite...-circuito.html
For me It's quite more efficient than my new Row M030 sport suspension, and It's comfortable at the same time
Bill..
I have a set made by Kevin who uses the id Insite both here on Rennlist and on Box-car-racing. If I put a half turn of pre-load there are hardly any clunks. A few still sneek by but not too bad unless you live where their are terrible roads.
Bill, to add another perspective. As a street car if you're not willing to put up with any noise from the bars think about an M030 front bar and a GT3 rear bar. I ran that setup for awhile while I was on stock shocks and H&R springs and with the stock M030 front bar and the GT3 rear bar set to full stiff it really helped the car rotate and become more neutral. You'll also only get points for the rear bar at that point too for your auto-x classing.
just my .02
Andy
**edit** The H&R front bar is also silent...but not adjustable, solid, heavy....and may well be too much bar for an auto-x application.
