Strange sticky clutch pedal engagement

I have a 99 996 c2, with roughly 45k miles. After the clutch pedal is depressed, and released, it sticks in the halfway position and requires manual intervention to pop it the rest of the way in the full up position. Gears can still be shifted, however the pedal feel almost has no effort until depressed halfway. This happened all of a sudden and was not something that slowly occured over time. Additionally, 2nd gear will grind when the transmission is cold, and has since last winter (finally became cold again). The dealer states the pressure plate springs have "malfuctioned" and the car requires a new clutch kit. They claim this will fix both issues. Does this sound accurate?

I dont always trust the dealers, but it sounds like they are speaking the truth, but the tranny might always grind when its cold, could be a sticky syhcro...

First of all, the dealer is wrong to simply diagnois the problem as the pressure plate wthout eliminating the easy things first. Your model year had a problem with the release lever for the clutch. If this lever has not been replaced, it is most likely the culprit. There is a TSB issued about this and the dealer should know this. It requires removal of the transmission to replace, so deciding on a clutch kit replacement at the same time would be advisable with your mileage. It is extremely unlikely that you pressure plate has anything to do with your stuck pedal. Your transmission has nothing to do with your pedal problem. The bad lever could be effecting your shifting problem. However, I would first eliminate the booster spring on the clutch pedal assembly as the cause. This can be done by removing the spring. The spring is known to bind at times and Porsche has issued a TSB on this also. Operation of the clutch pedal without the spring will increase the pressure necessary to depress the pedal, but will give you complete feel for the movement of the clutch assembly. As a matter of fact, I prefer running without the spring since it provides more positive pedal feel. The known problem with the release lever is that it binds during its movement. The cost of all replacement parts is about $50.00. The binding becomes a problem as the clutch wears and the lever has to move further to engage and disengage the clutch. It is seldom noticed until this wear occurs. Installation of another style clutch will also accent the lever's problem if it changes the travel of the lever. If you depress the clutch pedal with your hand, you can feel the bind of the lever as you move the pedal up and down.

How can you remove that spring from the pedal?

It's quite simple. The hardest part is manuvering your body and arms under the dash. Get under the dash, and place a 3 mm cotter pin or a nail through the hole in the plastic nipple that comes out of the end of the spring. This will hold the spring it position when you remove it. Remove the clip at the end of the pin that holds the spring to the pedal and then remove the pin. The spring is now disconnected and can be removed by sliding it towards the pedal. You may have to depress the pedal slightly to make room for removal.

Interesting maybe I will check that out this weekend. It would be intersting to see how the result is.

Is it possible for the spring to bind in such a position that the clutch is not fully disengaged?

Yes it is. However, even if it is not causing the binding, removing it will give you an absolute feel for the clutch system. You will more likely be able to feel the entire range of motion of the master cylinder, slave and release lever. If jerking the car when the pedal is stuck pops the pedal more upward, you can be assured that the problem is with the lever. When the pedal is stuck, accelerate to WOT and let up abrubtly and do it again. This may release the lever to it's proper position. I also assume that you have elimated any air that might be in the clutch system? If you put your head under the dash and watch the operation of the boost spring when the pedal is binding, you should be able to see the point it may be interferring with the pedal release.

I just spoke with the dealer. They stated the return spring is fine, as well as master/slave cyls. A tech attempted to drive the car, first gear engages, but the engine just revs - no power is going to the wheels.

Well, now you are introducing new symptoms. If the clutch is slipping, it could be any one of the things I mentioned above, or it could be that your clutch is fried. Sounds like you need a new one. DO NOT allow them to install a new clutch kit WITHOUT installing the newest release lever, per the TSB. The new slave cylinder is different too, but probably not needed.