19 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHNew clutch going in
Leading reported evidence
Replace clutch kit, bearing and release lever
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I had my clutch kit, bearing and release lever replaced when I changed my RMS at 34, 600 miles (even though it didn't need the clutch) - $1,245.51
Leading evidence: 'Replace clutch kit, bearing and release lever' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check pelicanparts.com' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
When I went out at noon it started getting worse, so I tried the "give it gas at low speed in third gear" that I had used off and on.
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Suggestion
- Check pelicanparts.com for clutch kit pricing or call Setset (renntech forum sponsor) for reference pricing.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Feels just great, which makes a repair like this a little more tolerable.
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19 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Just thought I would post this for the benefit of any other rookies that might be out there . . .
Given the other clutch experiences I read about, I thought the decline would be a little slower. Yesterday I drove to work, and I sensed a subtle vibration through the clutch pedal during engagement. I thought it was just cold (it
is
Minnesota) , but it did not go away. When I went out at noon it started getting worse, so I tried the "give it gas at low speed in third gear" that I had used off and on. In the past no problem, but yesterday zoom went the RPM.
So off to the dealer, who got me a free loaner and ordered the parts. By the time I got to the dealer, getting into first was really tough.
Mileage was 42K. I know that is not a lot, but I am the second owner so do not really know the history . . .
Thanks! Actually, the wallet effect is not
too
bad. About $1650. I have to admit, while I have never had as fun a car as my 911, I also do not have my Toyota dealer on speed dial!
I feel your pain: 44k and I'm headed there soon - the pedal has been vibrating but still no slip with throttle in a high gear from low speed...
Local dealer quoted me 2100 including the throw-out bearing and RMS... Thought it was ok deal until I saw your charge. I can't imagine they negotiate.
Jon996, I experienced the same thing as you. My car has under 40,000 miles and I have known the clutch was weak since I bought the car from a fellow Rennlister. Mine started slipping all at once a couple weeks ago. I am still undecided about whether to go with a LWFW or stay stock. The least expensive quote that I have gotten so far is $3,000. Are you getting your clutch job done at the dealer for $1,650? Does that include a new flywheel? Is a new flywheel even necessary, if you catch the problem soon enough? Thanks for any advice.
Been there, done that about 6 months ago.
A couple of pointers:
- Check pelicanparts.com for clutch kit pricing or call Setset (renntech forum sponsor) for reference pricing. A good mechanic should be able to do a clutch job well under 10 hours, so multiply that by the shop rate and add price of the parts.
- Be careful to resurface dual mass fly wheel. It is very tricky as the slightest imperfection will result in strong vibrations. I don�t think it is necessary as long as the flywheel surface is not burnt up too much.
- LWFW opens up an entirely new can of worms, ie. as if you dropped a set of marbles in your tranny.
Joost
Thanks for the comments, but I am way to much a rookie to offer suggestions
The dealer price reflects a 15% off sale that they run during the off-season (off-season runs about 10 months here in MN). They do not have the clutch off yet, so not sure how much needs replacing, but I usually just tell them to replace what's needed and they have not taken advantage yet!
That's what you get for going over 3000K RPM in your car.
Not sure what dealers charge but at 42K the flywheel should not need replacing and all they would install is a new friction disc and clutch plate and have them throw in a new throwout bearing they are cheap. GL
Boy MFletch are you losing your touch?
Look for an indy shop and in most cases it is cheaper then the dealer, I just had my eng out at Autesse of newport CA and they did that for $750 even with the new tranny seal put in and it would not be a stretch to have them put in a new disc and clutch plate for alittle extra. I am also lucky that the indy shop here in phoenix will replace the parts if I buy them ebay $348 for OEM (disc and plate) and they will install for just labor. Indy's also usually have a line on OEM parts at reasonable prices. I would'nt worry about the flywheel unless it is terribly worn or scored.
jperquin, thanks for the advice. Sunset Porsche is a life saver....they are always my first call for stock Porsche parts. The quote I got for labor was 6 or 7 hours.
Jon996, please let us know what your final bill is, if you don't mind. Good luck.
Mother, I think the reason we have rev limiters on our cars is to see how close we can get to them, without bouncing off them.
How did your replacement engine turn out? Do you have the SC back on, or are your still breaking it in?
I was more then embarassed
when it turned out not to be the RMS but a leaking tranny main shaft seal $20 part. The SC is off at presant and breaking in still "so this is how the porsche runs"!!!
I am enjoying the car and testing some of the limits and getting used to some of the engine noises. Not to sidetrack this thread but when you had your dash out could you see the motor connectors that operate the heater flaps etc.
Mother, I will undoubtedly use an independant or do it myself if I can use a friend's hoist at his shop. If i don't have to replace the flywheel, I won't. If I do, I'm still undecided about the LWFW. I drove a new DSG M3 a couple weeks ago. It made me realize that someday, I might care about the resale on the car that I thought I was going to keep forever. I doubt the LWFW would help with resale.
I'm glad to hear that your new motor is running well. I bet you can't wait to experience 100+ more horsepower. Here are some dash pictures. I have the old HVAC unit if you need parts or pictures. Thanks for the advice & take care.
Mark,
I agree with you about the resale issue with a LWFW. If it was my car and the FW did need replacing, I would go with OEM FW. Just my 1.7� (depreciation in this economy
).
Just a late followup--I saw a request for final price, etc. The flywheel was fine, so, with the 15% "we're bored it's winter up here" discount the dealer was running, the total price was $1374. Feels just great, which makes a repair like this a little more tolerable.
