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YOUR RESEARCHNo More Swirl Marks!
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Use aero 303
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Leading evidence: 'Use aero 303' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean polish, seal' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
When I used cold water, it provided plenty of lubrication (e.g., clay did not stick to the paint) and I was still able to pick up plenty of contaminants.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Basically, there are 4 levels of polishing compound and when used correctly, can produce AMAZING results.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
As for the random orbiter...I used Griot's orbiter.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used orange pads for the polish and red for the wax.
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Suggestion · Original poster
So, a fellow friend (and German vehicle enthusiast) split the cost on a polishing kit (~$330 after tax) that contained everything needed to removed MOST defects caused by normal wear & tear and some imperfections caused by folks who don't understand how to properly clean their vehicles.
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Suggestion
You can use it on paint if you wish, but do not be surprised if you use it on your car that you get water in places you do not want water and you end up replacing a bunch of seals.
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Hello all! I wanted to post this to show the before-and-after shots of my MY99 996 C2 Cab. As you can see by the shots of the rear quarter, swirl marks were rampant; as it was all over the car from the front to rear bumpers.
So, I went to Griot's Garage in Tacoma, WA and watched a couple of demonstrations on paint polishing. Basically, there are 4 levels of polishing compound and when used correctly, can produce AMAZING results.
So, a fellow friend (and German vehicle enthusiast) split the cost on a polishing kit (~$330 after tax) that contained everything needed to removed MOST defects caused by normal wear & tear and some imperfections caused by folks who don't understand how to properly clean their vehicles. In fact, there were some pretty ugly "j-marks" on my front left fender that completely disappeared.
Here's the short story:
1) Wash the car thoroughly with Dawn (it removes wax easily).
2) Clay bar the vehicle while still wet. Be sure to use plent of water for lubrication.
3) Dry the car. I use a leaf blower so it's hand's off and won't induce any scratches.
4) Polish using a #2 grit polish; remove compound.
5) Polish using a #3 grit polish; remove compound.
6) Clean remaining polish from crevases.
7) Apply wax & buff.
The first picture is before. Subsequent pics are after.
Simply put, I'm very happy about owning a black car again!
Rotor sends...
looks good, just a comment...you should use lubricant with clay not just water (e.g., good soap, QD spray)
did you use a PC, if so what pads and speeds?
I thought about using a spray lubricant as you suggested and how it was demo'd to me. However, I took the demo as a marketing ploy. When I used cold water, it provided plenty of lubrication (e.g., clay did not stick to the paint) and I was still able to pick up plenty of contaminants.
As for the random orbiter...I used Griot's orbiter. It came with the kit and is a variable speed random orbiter much the same as the PC. The other reason I/we opted for the kit was the lifetime repair/replacement warranty on the unit. I used orange pads for the polish and red for the wax.
One of the nice things about Griot's polishes is that they are water based. After each step, you can just wash the car and the polish comes right off. No hard rubbing even if it dries.
Looks super!
For a next splurge, I suggest the mini-random orbital from Griot's. (I also have the standard). It is just super for some of the smaller areas on the car.
Question for you--how did you handle the rubber seals, sunroof, etc? Based on other recommendations I masked these off, but interested to see what you did.
Thanks
Funny you should say this...I actually got the mini-random orbiter as well. As for the seals, I just stayed away from the areas with seals and plastics.
FYI: using dish washing liquid is for dishes and isn’t good on rubber parts as it can dry them out prematurely. Use a good quality car wash.
BTW the car looks fantastic.
2) Clay bar the vehicle while still wet. Be sure to use plent of water for lubrication.
I think it's normal to wash, dry then use the clay bar with the clay bar lubricant. I then re-wash to remove clay bar residue, dry, paint clean, polish, seal then wax & buff.
.Definitely do not use dish detergent- bad for your paint
.Definitely use lubricant with clay bar- damage to your clear coat layer.
It will take you about 15 minutes of reading, but you
can learn it here
www.autopia.org
Most pro detailers hang out in that site's forum.
John
I disagree with this ( as does Sal from Zaino). The purpose of using a dish detergent is to remove old waxes. It will not hurt the paint what so ever. Of course once the wax is removed the car will need to be protected with appropriate carnuba or polymers and the rubber/plastic protected as well (with something like Aero 303)
Autopia is an excellent site BTW.
I would strongly advise to never EVER EVER EVER EVER again wash your car with Dawn. It is highly basic in composition and will cause seals around doors, lights, etc (anywhere there is rubber used as a seal) to dry rot and you will get water where you do not want it. Get the paint cleaning solution from P21S. Does the same thing ie wax removal, but won't destroy your rubber seals.
I have to believe that paint can withstand some Dawn. It can take salty roads and insane heat - why would Dawn be harmful? I don't use Dawn, but I haven't stripped the wax from the car yet. Based on the results I've seen on this thread, I'm probably going to do exactly that.
Wow. With all the opinions on Dawn, perhaps I should start a polling thread on it's use! Seriously though, where's the emperical evidence that Dawn is "bad" for rubber and/or plastic products?
I think I would believe Sal (of Zaino) with years of experience, than the posters on this thread. He recommends dawn prior to application of his products.
but for more fun with the dawn debate:
dawn debate
Don't use a leaf blower to dry your car. It sucks up dirt in the intake and shoots it at your car.
If you want to use a blower, try the Metro blowers. They filter the air that they blow out. I have the motorcycle one and it works great on my cars.
J
it is not that Dawn is bad for your paint. It is bad for rubber and seals around the doors, windows, lights, etc. It dries them and leads to dry rot. You can use it on paint if you wish, but do not be surprised if you use it on your car that you get water in places you do not want water and you end up replacing a bunch of seals.
Actually dirt and silicates are worse....been using it for years...no leaks what so ever. You must condition the rubber/plastic after wash of course. I use Aero 303 for this purpose.