How to drive a Porsche?

Hey guys and gals. I can hear the groans from the oldies, but I'm new to Porsche ownership and I'm hoping to learn from some of you who've been down the road for a while in a 911. I've got 110k miles on the clock in my 02 6-speed. I just got a new clutch and upgraded some un-mentionable parts that are also back there. Now I'm ready to do some serious miles as a DD. I've heard people say "drive it like you stole it" and I assume this is to keep the engine oiled, the innards hot and gunk-free, etc. But my sensibility tells me to go a little easy on a 100lk powertrain. High revs are great fun but it seems like they might over-stress an older engine. How well-engineered are these cars? Am I prematurely aging this engine by reving to 5-6000 on a regular basis? I find that 4000+ is the sweet spot and like to drive in 3rd and 4th around town at this level. I'm by nature a lead foot and can't stand people who have hot cars and drive them slow. But I want to keep this car for a long time and don't want to create problems by being too hard on it. I've searched for threads but can't get a clear focus on this subject. Anyone out there with experience, please share your knowledge.

"drive it like you stole it" +1 I'm still having fun 4 years after I got it.

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Thanks for your response. Just curious...How many miles on your car and how many have you put on since you got it?

Purchased it: 3/21/08 with 33,412 (in Kentucky - I live in NY) Today (3/15/12) just hit: 52,000 18,588 miles since purchase 12.78 miles/day avg. 4,663 miles/yr avg (I know - way too low) Eroc

I bought my 99 C4 with 52K 4 years ago. I have 105K now..........DD and track when I can. The car never runs better after a track day. When the car is warm I like to drive around town in 2nd and 3rd gear. Hwy in a 65 zone I'm in 4th.

The reality is heat cycles kill engines. Unfortunately there is nothing you can do to change that. There isn't an engine made that likes to be stressed. That said, there are engines designed to take stress better than others and I feel Porsche engineers those types of engines. As long as the engine is given time to warm up to temp there's nothing wrong with running it hard from time to time. Less abuse will increase life..... In all things

Data point for you: For details about my car and mileage see my signature. For details about how the car is driven, see my avatar. Daily driver since 2004 (only had 5k mi when I bought it and it was still on the original tires at that time), city driving to work, long trips, lots of DE's, oil changes @ 7500 miles - Mobile 1. Pirelli P Zero Rosso's always and only. Dealer serviced since Day One. Service according to the owners manual. Never garaged, although I always cover it at night with a quality cover. I prefer to keep my engine running between 2600 and 3000 most of the time, and choose my gears accordingly. Once the engine is warm, shifts for daily driving are around 4000 rpm for the lower 3 gears. No leaks. No major repairs. Original brake disc rotors and pads, original clutch, and all original "unmentionables." I do not drive it like I stole it. I drive it like I am on the warm up lap at a DE, unless I am at a DE and have already completed the warm-up lap. Then I drive it like I'm crossing the Simplon Pass and I'm the only car on the road.

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Mark why only the lower 3 gears?

^^^I think you only need 3 gears for city driving. HWY different story. I do like to hug the far left lane with the windows down just to get the reverb from the exhaust.

Because shifts over 4000 rpm in 4th put me way over the posted speed limits here in Florida. As posted in another thread here many months ago, I select my daily street driving gears based on a simple method: 0-20 MPH 1st 20-30 2nd 30-40 3rd 40-50 4th 50-60 5th 60+ 6th unless I am NOT on the Interstate. I do not drive my car daily as though I am racing every one and every thing. I save all of the that for DE weekends. Get it all out of my system there. In general city driving I just take it easy wherever I am going. No hurry. I plan ahead with my time. WHY? If YOU were driving a Guards Red sports car with spoilers and stickers and a sport exhaust, you would, too. No tickets for me since 1984 and that was in a silver 1984 Jetta GLI doing 12 over the limit. Red Porsches ALWAYS attract the local officials even if you are driving in the slow lane. Prior to that, I got a ticket in 1974 while driving my '73 Signal Yellow 911S at 6 over the limit.

I've got 108K on my 2002 C4S, and I run it up to the redline as often as I can!

Here's a different take: It's a car. So drive it normally if it's a DD (mine is). The difference with Porsches is that they are better put together than most and are really happy at speed. So drive it normally and take it up once in a while after warm up. The main thing with them is not abuse ( they are many that are) but proper maintenance. I expect that after the initial couple of months when you're going to drive it ***** out, you'll get concerned about dropping 50 bucks at every fill up at the pump. That gets old very fast and you'll drive moderately and take it out on weekends. Don't be swayed by those who'll tell you that you have to drive it to red line at every outing. This is simply BS. Just make sure you have enough money put aside for proper maintenance and enjoy. They are great even at normal speed.

Drive it aggressive like but don't *beat* it and you'll be fine. Porsches aren't like other cars. I think taking it to redline two or three times per commute is healthy, lot's of 5000 rpm shifts are good to keep the IMS bearing oiled up. Never lug it below 2000 pm. Just don't bang the shifts, and for god sakes don't gear down to slow down. Brakes make the car stop, gears make it go forward. I'm at 120K miles too - but the motor was replaced at 40K miles (before I got it).

Nothing below 2000 revs. Prefer 2500 onwards. I listen and the car sounds and feels healthy at 3000 revs. Thats cruising. When I want to show off I like to take it to 4 and 5000. Maybe 6000 on a short burst to **** someone off that are wanting to race or hanging on my tail. Very rare do I need to take it nearer to the red line. You will feel the engine wanting you to take it into the higher than normal revs. It talks to you. The more you drive it, the more it gets into or under your skin. I have never felt more part of a car in my lifetime as I do with the 996 and I am 70years of age. Its my first Porsche. 45000 when I got it a year ago. Now has 55000 on it. BTW I just got something (which I said I would never get) a radar detector. This car wants me to drive it like it was stolen and I do. Its like a 'Good Dog' .. Give it a good kick every now and then, and it comes back for more wagging it's tail. lol. Check fluid levels before leaving the garage and temps every minute or so when driving. Very rare do I drive with loud music. Maybe once in a while in town I do showing off with the top down to make a few heads turn. More often I like to listen to the engine. Love the sound. I either drive or listen to music. One or the other. It's a daily driver. Kind of going nowhere fast. Make sure it's well warmed up before putting the toe down then listen to those tail pipes. As someone else posted. I probably use the gears like this when I am not showing off....... 0-20 MPH 1st 20-30 2nd 30-40 3rd 40-50 4th 50-60 5th 60+ 6th

Mark: here is my .02. Stop worrying, maintain the car "properly" and drive the hell out of it. These cars are engineered for the track and make excellent daily drivers. If you want to really learn how to drive the car, join your local Porsche Club of America chapter and sign up for a DE event that fits your schedule. This type of event will really teach you how to drive your car, the dynamics of how our rear engined cars handle and this will help you be a much better driver on the street. You will also observe some great people at these events and witness cars at various stages of preparation. All, if not most with lots of track time, a testament to their durability and great stories, too.

Purchased MY99 Porsche in Sept. 06 with 35k miles. Today I have 59,350.mi., only 24,350 driven in almost 6 years of ownership. Even though I haven't piled on the miles, I have completely enjoyed every mile driven, and have not owned a more dependable or reliable car. Drive it to match your skill level, but don't be afraid to hurt your 911, as long as you follow all service intervals and don't abuse your 911 you should be fine.

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That's exactly how I drive mine in typical street use. I don't see any reason to cruise above 3000 RPM. It wastes gas and puts unnecessary cycles on the motor. 2600 is solidly at the beginning of the power band where there is no lugging

I thank you all for your responses. II agree that making the car sing is intoxicating. This is for me the best, most engaging and most gorgeous car I've ever had (64 yrs old). I probably will never hit the red line out of respect for the car's age but, as with myself, the more I exercise, the better my body feels. I find myself shutting the musiic off when getting on the Interstate or Turnpike and enjoying the car. I've got my share of speeding tickets and I'm not proud of it but I don't see the posted speed limits as being sane or even very safe (I remember the double-nickel days with a shudder). People should obey the left lane for passing rule and move right. They should signal their turns and hang up the cell phones and pay some attention to the act of driving their car or truck (am I off topic?). My goal with this car is to "drive it like I own it", spirited and with a focus on staying out of trouble with the laws of physics (on the road and inside the engine). Yeah, the $50 fill-ups are sobering. But a run through the gears to 100 on the Turnpike restores the buzz just right. I'll try the 20-30 in 2nd, 30-40 in 3rd thing today. RPMs seem a bit low to my driving habits but maybe not. I hardly ever see 6th gear and 4th at 4000 is one of my favorite places in this car. Thanks again for the insights. All are valuable and appreciated.

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Yes, thank you. Seems common sense lives in NJ. Porsches are EXACTLY like other cars. Its an internal combustion engine. There is no porsche fairy dust thats sprinkled on these things. P.S. what sort of oiling of the IMS occurs at 5000rpm that doesn't occur at 3000rpm? You aren't lugging this motor at 2000rpm, its not a roller bearing 356. Drive it hard...or don't. It doesn't really make any difference. IN fact, drive it like a normal car...i.e. get on it sometimes and drive it normally the rest of the time.

Enjoy your car and don't be afraid to kiss the rev limiter, it's set very conservatively. You will not hurt the car in any way if you redline it. These cars are made to run and should handle 8600 RPM safely without exceeding a safe speed for piston travel. I don't think you can run it over 7K. If you are pushing the car you can fee the power building as the RPMs increase and you'll hit the limiter before you feel it's time to shift. Watch the tach and make your shift right at redline to avoid hitting the limiter which will actual slow you down a bit. Above all, have fun, that's what it's about.

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I don't agree. Porsches are designed for higher output and higher efficiency than "normal" cars and you pay extra for that. You're not just paying for the badge. Besides innovative design like variocam *plus*, components are made to higher tolerances than "normal" and rods pistons cranks etc are balanced with more precision. Of course it's the same in that it's an internal combustion reciprocating piston engine - I obviously didn't mean they used technology developed in Area 51. Compared to a Toyota or a Chevrolet though the cars are designed and built to perform better. It's not magic Quad - just good old fashioned better engineering and build quality. The IMS is not specifically designed to be lubrictaed by the engine's oiling system but nevertheless engine oil does get past the seals, and given that this washes the grease away, it means that the bearing relies to some extent on engine oil. Higher rpm means higher oil pressure and at higher pressure it's more likely this oil will find it's way into that bearing. Maybe I'm imagining it, but it works for me. Below 2000 rpm you're lugging an M96. They don't like it. Hey - run yours how you want, but put on 50,000 miles at 1800 rpm and your car will run for ****. Drive it too normal and it defeats the purpose. Some of us enjoy our Porsches for reasons other than status and looking good. They're designed to be driven harder than the average car. But don't beat on it! I'm sure the OP is *mature* enough at 64 to understand the difference between driving it hard and thrashing it.

I DD drive mine averaging about 12k a year and I drive it hard but don't abuse it. I take it easy while warms up, change oil every 5k miles using synthetic 5-40w but other than that I shift on average at 4k.

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It's not BS at all. It's a fact. Mine's a daily driver, and has been for years. On most outings, I do run it up to redline. Obviously I wait until it's properly warmed up, and I only do it when the opportunity presents itself, such as a freeway onramp. For me, that's virtually every day. I'm not saying it's a requirement to run it up to redline every time you drive it. The OP asked a question, and I gave him my honest answer. I don't drive the car at redline all the time, and I don't think there's anything wrong with driving it up to redline everytime you take it out. I'm sure you've had yours at the redline before... If you're concerned about the cost to fill up the tank, then a Porsche might not be the right car for you!

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I've never heard this mentioned before. Is this commonly accepted? I do this a lot of the time when driving my Tip in manual. Should I stop?

One think I take care on is making sure the car is fully up to oil temperature before going over about 3000 rpm. I try to take it easy for the first five minutes or so and let the water temp gauge get over 180. Then I push hard, shifting at 4-5k whenever possible and getting into the 6k range when I can.

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The tip is a different story. The wear and tear on a manual car occurs at the clutch and at the synchronizers. The wear and tear can be alleviated by double clutching and rev matching and, theoretically, if your double clutch and rev matching technique is *perfect* then there's little downside to gearing down to slow down. This isn't practial on the street though....not all the time anyway. On your tip, there must be some system that is stressed when the gear changes happen, but I don't know enough about autoboxes to tell you if this is significant or not.

[QUOTE= As posted in another thread here many months ago, I select my daily street driving gears based on a simple method: 0-20 MPH 1st 20-30 2nd 30-40 3rd 40-50 4th 50-60 5th 60+ 6th unless I am NOT on the Interstate. .[/QUOTE] I tried this shifting guideline around town today. Interesting. Very smooth on the drive train, no lugging, etc. Not bad for getting to the Interstate from my driveway. 5th at 50 seems a little too relaxed, 6th at 60?..not practical for maneuvering through traffic. It's very rare that I'm doing 60 on the Interstate unless I'm stuck in traffic or a cop in front of me is doing 60. That being said, I learned a lot from this post. I do know the dif between driving and beating, I don't downshift to brake, I do the warm-up to 180 on the guage, I don't pop the clutch or slam the gears and I definately don't want to break my car for lack of knowledge about the machinery (ie, driving too hard and fast or too slow and luggy). I love having this car and I'm very glad that this forum exists. Thanks again.

Just drive it however you want and make sure the car is maintained per Porsche recommendations. Mechanically if the car has a deficiency due to mileage (bad clutch or other wear items like bushings) it will definitely become more evident when you are pushing the car but honestly if there is a problem then let it crop up and then repair it. Realistically the odds that you will harm your major components like the engine or transmission due to more aggressive driving are unlikely unless the car has been seriously neglected. Me personally, at times I may be doing 45 in 6th gear and just enjoying the air and music and other times I'm banging off shifts near redline accelerating into triple digits. Porsches can and will handle both. Enjoy the car.

Just drive it how you feel comfortable driving it. Yeah, "it's a Porsche", but it's still just a car at the end of the day. Stay up on the maintenance, keep it clean and just drive it. The placebo effect of driving the car the way YOU think it should be driven will do more for how well you think the car runs and how long it lasts than listening to any of us.

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When you bought your car you had to have some thought in your mind about how you were going to drive it. I'm also assuming you knew something about Porsches....but, maybe not. I've always found Porsche's engineering to be part of enthusiasts attraction for the cars. I know you said you tend to have a lead foot but are you really a "drive it like you stole it" kind of guy every time you get behind the wheel? Or, are you the kind of person who enjoys a spirited drive, even if its every time you're behind the wheel? I think some people miss the fact that it's possible enjoy your car and drive it quickly but not abuse it. You bought a car with high mileage and I'm assuming you knew the inherent risks of buying any car with high mileage. 100K tends to be a breaking point for a lot of things here and there. Does it mean that the engine is going to blow? No. These cars aren't fragile, high strung one-offs. They're production cars that, like most cars out there today, were driven millions of miles at all kinds of extremes before they ever saw a showroom floor. Sure, they've been engineered with a different purpose in mind than an econobox sedan that was designed to simply take someone from point A to point B but, as with most modern vehicles (from Kias to Bugattis), if you maintain your car and don't abuse the hell out of it, the engine should last a long time. Drive it, enjoy it and maintain it but, as with any high mileage vehicle, don't be surprised when you have to start replacing stuff. Agreed. -Eric

dude, it's a car, don't stress it and it will last longer. simple. I know you want to hear that you can drive it red line all the time, but you will tear up your engine if you do. ask any qualified mechanic.

3 pages of the same thing. I think the OP gets it by now.

Hopefully he does... Let's go for four pages just in case!

I'll add another page. The joy is knowing you can, and doing it sparingly. Otherwise you get used to it and need a faster car. Drive like an old lady, but when it's time to pass on a two lane, let it howl. Remember to shift out of 3rd at 111 so you don't hit the limiter

My vote is to keep this going as long as we can; maybe even change up our opinions a bit just to keep it interesting.

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Not really. Higher output and efficiency? Compared to what? Not cars like hondas or BMWs (m3 for one). Normal cars like a econobox? Maybe, but not really different than any modern sports sedan or similar. Variocam is innovative? Honda offered v-tech in 1989 and bmw came out with VANOS in 1992, at the same time as Variocam was introduced in the 968. Components being made to higher tolerances and balanced with more precision means that they should last longer with no extra effort for the owner. It does not mean the car needs to be driven differently. Btw, for the 993, porsche permitted up to 6 grams of weight differential between rod/piston assemblies. That is absolutely shameful for a performance engine. Ok, so with that better engineering (debatable) and build quality, why does it need to be driven harder? I could be wrong, but my understanding is that these engines reach max oil pressure pretty close to 3000rpm, which is then held to that max with a "blowoff or bypass" somewhere near 75 or 80psi. What do you base this on? Every modern car I've driven including the 996 could dawdle along at 1700rpm happy as a clam. I'm not suggesting you load it up and go up steep hills at this rpm, but cruising is no issue. No one is suggesting you only drive below 2000 rpm, but that doesn't mean occasionally cruising at that level is bad, dangerous, or lugging. What purpose is that? Its a standard street production car, nothing more. Normal can still include some revs and some throttle, but there is absolutely no benefit to the engine in revving the snot out of it. If you want to drive it hard, thats your business, but higher revs=more wear. If I only wanted a car for status and looking good, I sure wouldn't have bought a porsche, which approaches BMWs for ubiquity in my area. Porsches are designed to be driven like any other sports car, which is harder than a normal econobox. That doesn't mean it can't be driven sensibly either. The OP can do what he wants, its his car, but lets give him at least both sides of this coin. So since its a fact, you have verifiable, peer reviewed, and properly conducted studies on this then? Please share...I asked the 993 guys for such evidence about a year ago...and well, I'm still waiting. Your anecdotal evidence sadly doesn't amount to much. Ah yes, the "if you worry at all about gas mileage, a porsche is not for you". Thats BS. If I'm taking my 911 to the store to pick up a gallon of milk, why shouldn't I worry about how much gas it uses. Not everyone needs to drive like a 17 year old at all times, and during those times when you are driving normally, I would like the best gas mileage possible. if you complain about gas mileage while tracking the car, then you may need a different hobby, i agree. If you are such a "baller" that you don't care about needlessly wasting gas, just write me a check for $50 every month.

OK, with that ^^^^^ I'm game for keeping this going. If I had the patience to type that much I couldn't have said it better myself. Thanks, Quadcammer.

One way to move this to 4 pages is to debate "WHAT KIND OF OIL SHOULD I USE WHEN I DRIVE MY PORSCHE LIKE THIS"

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I don't want to speak for Dennis but I think you're missing the point. It's not about being a baller. It's about knowing what you're getting into before you get into it. If you picked up a 911 thinking it would be an economical mode of transportation then you're going to be very surprised...and not in a good way. Whether you drive it like an old fart or Mario Andretti, the 911 isn't going to reward you with Priuslike mileage. When people complain about things like this it just tells me that they didn't use their head before they made the purchase. It's like complaining that you can't fit a set of golf clubs in the trunk. I'm sensitive to the increasing costs of gas, too, but I also know what I bought when I bought it. Shame on me if I couldn't afford a car that guzzled gas. -Eric

Quadcammer, Let's not argue. My response to your post wasn't to start an argument with you, but merely to respond to your statement about my post and others being "BS". You don't have any objective data that show that driving your car like an old lady will make it last longer than a car that's driven hard. You have nothing more in the way of data than I have, so you're in no position to call BS. And I do run my car up to redline when I get the opportunity... so that's not BS either. I never made a claim that this driving style would produce any particular result, so I'm not sure what you really want me to study. People come to boards like this to solicit feedback from actual owners/operators of these cars. I own and drive one every day, and that's the way I drive it. It has worked well for over 108K miles. I don't think I need a study to tell me anything more... If the ability to fill up my car without worrying about how I will afford it makes me a "baller", then so be it. Most people I know are "ballers"... Calling something "BS" because you don't agree with it is childish, and confrontational.

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The 996 is downright economical compared to most high-performance cars. I tend to average 22 - 24 in mixed driving. I consider that pretty good! Our Cayenne, on the other hand, is a different story. That beast guzzles gas...

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Eric, thats fine, but if you have a way to drive your porsche so that it gets 15mpg or a way that it gets 20mpg, what is so wrong with driving it the 2nd way. There are plenty of times that I drive my 911 in a non spirited manner, because of a number of reasons, including not being in the mood, wanting to just relax, and yeah, not wanting to burn fuel needlessly. I'm old enough that I don't need or want to cruise at 4000rpm just to hear the exhaust. Dennis, you are right, I have no more evidence than you do. But then, I'm not stating that things are "facts", because facts require evidentiary support. I'm sure the OP is very interested in your opinions, and mine, so long as everyone agrees they are opinions, sometimes educated, sometimes not, and nothing more. I can fill up my car without a second thought, but that doesn't mean I drive in ways that waste fuel for no real added benefit (i.e. cruising along at 4000rpm).

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why do you keep track of something you don't care about?

I never said I didn't care about gas mileage! I now see where our conflict was created. The fact that I was stating is that I drive my car up to redline every day. I wasn't claiming that it is a fact that driving your car up to the redline every day is a good thing for the engine... I don't know that anymore than you do!

By the way, what does OP mean? My reason for putting this out there was to try to understand the spread between high-rev, sludge burning driving and relaxed low-rev, spark plug-loading up driving. I'm more concerned with the damage that might be caused by the relaxed, early-shifting style described in the "40-50, 4th gear" scenario. I bought this car to drive it like a well-powered sports car - that also gets me to work and back in a way that is entertaining and often enough, exhilarating. Yeah, I care about gas prices but that was dialed into the eqution when I made the purchase. According to the computer, I'm averaging just under 17 mpg, so maybe I'm a little speed-happy just 4 months in this car. And yeah, I like driving fast and don't get off on the status symbol side of this - maybe just the opposite. I like this car for the beauty, the speed, the control and the sounds...and for being so engaging on the road. As long as I don't have to flog it to keep it oiled and sparked, I'm a happy guy. That's what I learned from this. The guy with the Red Porsche in Jacksonville proves it. The guy in Texas with the Black Porsche proves that I can drive at speed and revs if I chose to and not fear an early grave. I need this car to last for a while but I would have bought a Honda Civic if that was my only need. I'm looking for a balance between driving this car as though it was built to be driven fast - and having the sense to know that stress is stress, no matter what the engine was designed to do. You guys have more than filled in the blanks for me. Thanks again.

OP means Original Poster, in this case, you. You said you enjoy the sound - do you have a modified exhaust? If not, get FisterD's (do a search) Best bang for the buck.

OP means "original poster". Glad you got what you needed. We may bicker a little bit in here from time to time, but it's all good. And that's a fact!

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I said the variocam *plus* was innovative. Increasing the valve lift at higher rpm was absolutely an innovation. I never said it did. I said that it allows Porsches to be driven harder with higher performance results than the average car. Doesn't need to be (IMS comment notwithstanding) I said it *can* be without worrying too much. Not according to my oil pressure gauge. Occasionally sure - just not the default mode of operation. Likewise excursions to redline. Umm yes there is (duh)- higher engine speeds mean higher roadwheel speeds. The benefit of revving past the peak of the power curve is to ensure that you are on the the fat part of the power/torque curve when the next gear is selected. We can certainly argue about whether there is a benefit to driving fast but there's no argument that if you want to go fast as possible you will *clearly* want to run the car to redline . But if done occasionally then not so much more wear that it should be a concern. Is there even a benefit? I think so.

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Sounds like you've been doing just fine on your own Mark. Keep it up. Don't mind us - it's just alpha types arguing for the sake of arguing.

I used to be a member of a 968 board. There was a lot of vitriol and argument over there. The board got hacked, and I sold my car. Now, I am here. I am a lawyer by trade which means I have to argue and nitpick for a living. It also means I enjoy a good spirited debate... Tempered with a sense of humor about some things... I hope we can continue to have that here. Personal attacks should be squelched as well as hyper-sensitive responses... With that being said... My 2 cents (with no scientific data but logic). +++ The harder you drive, the more friction you create and the more heat you create and the more (oil) viscous breakdown you create... Correct? (Does that apply to synthetics)? If a piston weighs a certain amount and has to stop from going in one direction (the exhaust stroke) and change to another (the power stroke)... The faster it is going, you need more energy to stop it and turn it around... Correct? If your crankshaft is transferring this energy, the more it flexes or wobbles, ever so slightly... Correct? If your crankshaft is flexing, the geometry of your pistons and rods is changing... Correct? If you're generating more heat, your piston rings and cylinder walls are also expanding... Correct? If your piston rings are a different material than your cylinder walls, then they expand and contract at different rates... Correct? And, if you have any foreign matter in your oil, it will score either the piston ring or cylinder wall or both... Correct? A horizontally opposed engine keeps the center of gravity low (because it is flat), but also increases some of these forces and concerns because it is easier and requires less effort to change direction on a v angle... Correct? Porsche has been (and almost certainly still is) built very well... Correct? Every reciprocating engine has very similar wear concerns (depending on angle of the piston and materials used in construction and quality of construction)... Correct? Porsche is near the top of this but not perfect... Correct? They try to build cars to be durable and race worthy and road worthy and affordable... Correct? +++ So, with all of that in mind, I say to drive "... Polite but Firm." And maintain it. Meaning, I see no harm in squeezing the car or stretching it out a bit, but I do not subscribe to the "... drive it like you stole it" mentality... Which, by it's very title, implicates you do not care about the life of the car. I've pulled alongside Vipers and Corvettes and I've always felt Porsche was a different breed of cat. The car will get you where you need to be... Both geographically and performance-wise, but you need understand and appreciate what you've got... A very well-engineered road car with quirks but style. By analogy, my watch is a 1971 Rolex with a leather band (inherited). Great watch and classy and performs well, but there are others out there that keep better time. I love it (because it is part of me) but no one would pay me what anything for it... Still, it gets me where I need to be, performs very well, and is very classy. Timeless... Like a Porsche. +++ Drive it, stretch it, enjoy it but don't abuse it. So, I'd stay away from redlines. My guess is that is what Porsche (the old guy not the company) would have wanted. All of this assumes daily driver. JKC PS 996, 168k on the clock. Daily Driver.

Besides rpm on a cold motor, do not ask the motor to give you torque when the motor is cold. Once everything is all warmed up go go go. As you approch a stoplight in forth gear @ 45 mph practice down shifts seamlessly before you hit the brakes. It is much easier to practice toe heeling when you are not using the brake peddle. Rev match to 3rd only now your going along at 44 mph and then 2nd and you are going 41 mph. THen stop at the stop sign or light. You will be a half way to a pro at toe heeling. The key to long life (engine) is clean oil and smooth driving.

Top fuel dragsters are built for high RPMs but need to be rebuilt after every run. I stopped taking my car to 6000 rpms and now take it only to 5000 rpms. IMO redline is too much stress but what do I know.

This thread was interesting to read. I'm a new owner and have been conservatively shifting for the most part. I have been using my 996 as a daily driver and have been able to average 24mpg as reported by the OBC. Maybe I'm not having enough fun! -JRW

A bit testy today aren't we? And Nitro isn't even posting!

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Whew! I agree with everything you just said. The laws of physics don't change just because a car is drop dead gorgeous. Your logic is crisp and your conclusions flow from it. And your odometer doesn't lie. Will you be my ticket lawyer?

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This forum has become part of the allure of my car. It's better than facebook in my opinion. When I bought my high-mile 996, I checked around to try to see if there was any concrete reason NOT to buy it. I got so much varying and opposing input, I just said F___it! I'm going for it. I'm in the car business and know a thing or two about the machinery. We like to say, "Oil is cheap, parts and labor are pricey." I'm a believer in over-maintenance. The guy who had it before me was a mature real estate broker. Didn't appear to be an abusive sort. Anyway, here I am parsing the finer points of driving with a bunch of alpha-dogs. Thanks for the vote of confidence.

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I agree. For me, 6000 is the new redline and 5000 works just fine for sprints to 100+.

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Jaster quoted:- and for god sakes don't gear down to slow down. Neither have I and I don't think it is commonly accepted. I am an advanced ex cop driver and was taught to use my gears up and down the box except in an emergancy situation where you have to hit the brakes hard. ..... Gears are there to be used up and down the box. If they slow the car down to where there is no need to brake.. (which they do on a high compression engine as the 996) then all well and good. It saves my brakes and my right foot. When my revs drop below 2500 I am dropping a gear and it don't matter which gear I am in when I do it. When I get real slow in 2nd I leave it there for a stop but I come down the box as a motor cyclist would. The one I dont use on stopping is the first gear. Do you all find that there is no need to rev during the gear changes coming down the gears. Porsche engineers thought that one out and did it for us. Just another little tit bit why Porsche 911 engines are in the top class of all engines on the street or tracks.

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Well this would be a topic for another thread but think about it.... Gearing down through 4 or 5 gears every time means that your clutch hydraulic cylinder has to go through 4-5 complete travels, the throwout bearing has to go through 4-5 cycles, the clutch diaphragm also, and then there's the friction plate. Clutch parts are expensive and they are buried deep inside the car. Brake cylinders on the other hand don't travel through a stroke, they just transmit a force. Likewise the master cylinder - in my world I press it once then it stays depressed. Brake pads can be changed in 30 minutes for $50. Dynamically, using the brakes slows all four wheel and keeps the forces even. In your world you're loading the front when you brake, then loading the rear when the lower gear hits. jerky back and forth - presumably you're not rev matching - unless you're heel and toeing - and it doesn't sound like you're that kind of guy. About 90% of the cars on the road are automatics. In the vast majority of these situations the car stays in top gear while the driver slows down with the brakes only. If cars were meant to be slowed down with gears then more automatics would gear down appropriately. Of *course* you select lower gears when necessary to keep the car at the correct revs in traffic or when you're planning to accelerate out of a corner *totally* different story. You select the correct gear for whatever forward motion is going on. If you're slowing to a stop sign and using the gears to slow the car down then that is ...well just dumb. Brakes pads are cheap clutches are expensive. edit: just re-read your post.....as a motorcyclist would??? Are you serious?? The last thing I want to do when I'm riding my bike is pump the clutch lever in and out and risk locking up my rear wheel as I pull up to a stop sign. Do you even ride a motorcycle?

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Uhhhh, no. This is wrong on all kinds of levels. I ride a bike and drive a stick, and doing this is bad, bad, bad. All this talk about heel toeing........ really? You guys heel toe on the way to work? You can't be serious. Track days and DEs, yes, on the street is just silly. If you're driving on the street in a 996 to the point that you need to heel toe you're an idiot, and being reckless. This thread IS fun!!!

That's what I'm saying dude. I ride bikes and have driven stick my whole life. Downshifting to slow down to"save the brakes".?!? Holy smokes, thanks for the backup. Can you believe this? Maybe someones driving the speed limit in the left lane too?

Woo hoo! Five pages!

On the topic of mileage, it's a good idea to check it the old fashioned way every now and then. You may find that your car's mileage computer is a bit optimistic. Mine is anyway...

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I was wondering about that... Ill check it the next time I fill up. -JRW

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That is pretty good but not great by today's standards. Unfortunately, even driven economically I was only getting about 14mpg from my C4S in the Fall. My commute is just too local and short with too much stop and go. I only get about 16mpg from my Volvo from the same commute. Quad, there's absolutely wrong with it and I don't believe I criticized anyone for watching their driving habits to save gas. As for the exhaust note, that's what the windows are for. -Eric

Since we're on the topic of gas mileage: Lets say you drive 12000 miles per year. Drive your car nice and easy all the time, totally missing the point of driving a Porsche, and you'll average 20 mpg. You'll use 600 gallons of gas. At $4 per gallon you'll spend a total of $2400. Driving it like it's meant to be driven though and you'll average 17 mpg. In that case you'll use 700 gallons of gas and you'll spend $2800. So for $400 per year I can either enjoy my Porsche or use it like I would a Toyota. Yeah - I'll spend the extra buck a day.

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LOL - I drive about 25 miles each way to work, mix of country road and interstate. Was driving the C4S this week and noticed I was just cruising a few mph over the interstate speed limit in 6th and it hit me that gee, there isn't much point in this, not much fun just sitting in the cockpit, could just be driving the olds, but the 911's actually get better gas mileage. Then wondered why in the C2 I cruise at more like 80mph plus if I am in 6th. (C2 is definitely more "raw" sports car than the C4S maybe that has something to do with driving them a tad differently.) As to driving style, I just drive by the "feel" of the car. I think every vehichle has a "sweet spot" where the mechanicals are best in balance and harmony and I tend feel that and ride in it. Both cars, according to the onboard, average 19.3 mpg. Drive, enjoy, stay safe.

I'm somewhat disappointed in the gas mileage of my 996. I purchased it thinking that I'd be able to go from 0-60mph at 23 mpg. Just not getting what I expected. Perhaps a turbo will get better mileage...

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Tiptronics (in automatic mode) downshift automatically when the brake is applied, depending on the severity of the deceleration. Just did a bit of Internet research on this topic. Apparently there is as much disagreement and emotion on "Engine Braking" as there is on "which oil to use". Not gonna be solved here.

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Never driven a tip so I can't speak to it. That said, I have ridden bikes for years and unless you want very bad things to happen, you don't use the engine to brake. As for driving a stick...... maybe there are some out there that do it, but for me it feels abusive. I just use the brake pedal to slow the car down. Call me crazy.

I'm with the brakes - not clutch - to slow down camp. I just spent some big bucks to put in a new clutch. Most of that was labor. Needed a specialty shop to do the work. The guys at my shop just don't have the experience or special tools to do this kind of stuff. The brake pads? Heck, I can see them right there behind the wheels! One of the Saab techs could blow this job out as a favor. If I'm tempted to downshift to brake (I sort of used to believe that was how you're supposed to drive a sports car) I imagine the extra wear, the shortened clutch life I'd be causing. Doesn't seem cost-effective and I really don't get much in the way of kicks hearing the engine rev up to match the speed of the car. Not enough bang for the buck. Besides, these cars have a $1000 dual mass flywhell. No point torquing this thing out of shape before its time. I agree that working through turns on a twisty road, you often need to be in a lower gear to accomodate the slower speeds required to make it through a turn. But I think most of that happens coming out of the turn ( or maybe mid-turn in the long sweepers), after the speed is scrubbed off. That, to me, where rev-matching comes into play. I'm no pro racer, not even an amature, for that matter. But I've done my share of driving and I know what's worked for me at the instinctive level. I even think automatics suffer from manual downshifting over the life of the car. I know there are some newer auto trans "sport" modes that hold the lower gears at certain times and downshift early when coming to a stop, providing some engine braking. But for most street driving, I think the power train should be for power and the brake system should be for braking.

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Don't know if disagreement is the right word...just one group of people not understanding how the machinery works and how different forces affect the stability of a moving vehicle. Using engine braking to keep a steady speed while traveling downhill is not what we're talking about. That falls squarely under the "select the correct gear for maintaining forward motion while keeping the engine rpm at speed appropriate for the type of driving that is being done". Using a lower gear in this case isn't about saving brakes, it's about keeping your brakes from overheating. It's a whole other story when a so called professionaly trained drivers says he goes down through the gears when he's coming to a stop as a motorcyclist would so he can save his brakes !! There isn't disagreement on this point anymore than there is disagreement about whether Hitler was justified in his actions during the holocaust. Yes, there are people who will take a contrary view, but they are simply wrong. *Are we at page 6 yet? - Godwin's law has been satisfied.

There are "experts" on both sides who are equally as vocal. I went for a nice ride today and watched what happened during braking in both modes. The Tip downshifts a step at a time until the car comes to a stop, even in manual mode. This tells me that my manual downshifting isn't doing anything that Porsche doesn't expect to happen. While there is a lot of conjecture about what bad things can happen by downshifting, there was no one in the threads I read who provided first-hand knowledge of such events. Maybe someone will chime in here with a first-hand experience. This seems to be another "range war" topic which will never result in agreement. I'm making no assumptions about manual transmissions, just an observation about my automatic. YMMV.

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No...those would be people who *think* they are experts - like HurdiGurdi the proffessionaly trained driver. Automatics in general and tips in particular are not what we're talking about. None of the wear and tear of the clutch and gearbox synchronisers occurs. Totally different animal. With regards vehicle stability...the tip downshift happen when you are hard on the brakes...which overrides the shifting of weight as the lower gears hits....totally different style of driving and not really relevant to the conversation going on. OK - when I was very young and foolish I was racing my BMW 2002 down the road and I geared down hard as I turned in to the road leading into our subdivision. The rear locked up, the car went sideways and I hit a very large sign post. Dented the nose up very well. Should have used the brakes. Have you ever rode a motorcycle ? Try this next time you're on one; Select a lower gear while you are riding in a straight line but don't touch the front brake or apply any throttle. You notice the rear wheel locks up and skids? Try that in the rain once in traffic and then come back and tell me how much fun it was cleaning the mess out of your shorts. You're right - there will be no agreement so long as their are people out there who don't understand machinery or vehicle dynamics...and they will always be there.

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Mark - it sounds like you should be giving advice not asking for it. Looking back at your first post it strikes me that the correct response would have been for you to seek out your local Porsche Club and then participate in a Drivers Ed event - otherwise known as a track day. The events are very safe, and you'll be in a novice group so you'll have an instructor with you at all times. You'll learn how to brake and downshift safely for high performance driving and you'll be able to explore the limits of your car in a safe environment. Besides being a lot of fun, it makes you a better safer driver. I know your question was more about preserving the mechanical health of your car rather than performance driving technique, but the two are linked. Enjoy your car and don't worry about breaking it. It's obvious from your posts that you'll be fine.

I drive flat out. Chicks dig it.

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It was a long time ago (1985), pretty sure because thats when I bought a brand new Honda Interceptor VF500 and it was that bike because I remember it specifically being on that bike, and because I only did it once. Wasn't paying attention, downshifted, let the clutch out, bike started squriming all over, clutched up, and 2 cigarettes later, got back on and rode on. Only once. YAY!!!! 6 pages

Very funny stuff.

Engine braking on the street is probably ok as long as you don't overrev the engine. It's not really appropriate on the track at all. I would fail a check ride if it was done. Use the right tool for the job. The engine is for going, brakes for slowing. It's just common sense. Sure you can slow the car exclusively with the engine, but there is very little real justification for doing so. You can also steer with your feet, but that doesn't make it the right thing to do. -td

Heel toe everywhere. Yes. Absolutely. Idiot? Nope. Not even close. Good driving technique doesn't equate to reckless. In fact, a great way to learn proper heel toe is on the street. It's silly to not do it if you can. No extra effort, easier on the car, and good practice. Why wouldn't you do it? -td

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+1 At a minimum I rev match all my downshifts, heel and toe where the situation merits it. Why jerk my drivetrain around if I don't have to? Sometimes I'm driving fast, some times I'm not. Makes no difference. The benefits of heel/toe and rev matched downshifts are the same.

I guess I just don't understand heel toe. I've done it (clumsily I might ad) just to see what it was all about. And I think "learning it on the street" is pretty ridiculous. A parking lot or a back road maybe. I've been in cars on track with professional and experienced drivers and seen them do it. I raced karts for 4 years (no heel toe needed there). I've been riding bikes for 20+ years and I've had sports car of some kind most of my driving life, but I've never found the need to heel toe. Maybe there is a way to drive responsibly on the street and heel toe? My only experience with it (and the seeming NEED for it) is going from high speed high revs into a turn in order to keep the power curve. I just don't see why thats needed on everyday driving. Maybe you guys live in an area where there aren't many cars on the twisty roads with no speed limits. Most of the turns I make require stopping and looking both ways.

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The purpose of heel and toe is twofold; 1) Match the speed of the gears in the box and the speed of the flywheel and clutch plate to reduce wear and tear on the synchros and the clutch plate. 2) Eliminate the lurching that occurs when the clutch is let out on a downshift. This lurching can be deadly at track speeds - on the street it just makes for a smoother ride. Just because guys do it at track speeds doesn't mean you need to be traveling at track speeds to do it. Hey - hey ...let's talk about trail braking next! You know - braking into a corner. Bet there's some "experts" who will tell you to never do that either.

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So you're telling me that when you're out riding your bike and the need arises to shift into first while the bike is still rolling (for instance if the light goes green *just* before you come to a complete stop) that you don't double clutch into first gear? What do you do? Just ram it in to gear and accept the clunk and grind as normal? Nice.

Oops - I'm being sloppy a bit. Double clutching will reduce wear on the synchros while simply rev matching gives all the other benefits. Heel and toe is required in both cases. I kind of combined double clutching and heel and toe in my head. Looking back to the Tiptronic discussion - I should have noted that Tips blip the throttle on downshift - effectively every downshift is heel and toed by the computers. You won't find this "disagreement" happening on the air cooled boards. Not heel and toeing is simply not an option with a 915 transmission...unless you're ok with blatant mechanical abuse.

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Based on your tone it sounds as if you're challenging my riding ability. Nice. I don't profess to be a Valentino Rossi, or Lewis Hamilton as many guys on forums do, this one included. Anyone who drives a sports car feels they're good drivers. Funny thing is, I've been to tons of track events ( races, DEs, autocross, etc... ), I don't participate, just a spectator (unless im racing my kart) Anyway, there are always a bunch of "meh" drivers and a few that stand out. How come it always seems when it comes to 'talk' there are always a lot more stand outs than 'meh' drivers? First gear is pretty useless unless you ARE stopped. The fact that most bikes red line at anywhere between 9-11k you've got plenty of room in all other gears. That applies to my 996 as well. I don't see the need to keep Rpms up when going into and through turns. I approach a turn, I press the brake, the car (engine) slows, I move the gear lever down into the proper gear, let out the clutch while I accelerate. I don't experience lurching or engine braking. And in all the years ive been riding and driving ive never had to replace gears, synchros or clutches. Maybe I'm doing it wrong?

[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:] http://images.mylot.com/userImages/images/postphotos/1719835.jpg

Capt obvious is correct and that very poster has been on my mind since page 2. Miickey, I'm sure you're a fine rider and I'll be willing to be a dollar to a donut that when you are on your bike you rev match before you let the clutch out after selecting a lower gear. You probably do this without thinking. If you have ever done this while also applying the brake (must have happened a few times in 20 years) that's the quivalent of a heel and toe downshift in a car. As far as lurching goes...you yourself said doing it on a bike is dangerous. Why would it be all that different in a car. Once again I bet you apply a little bit of throttle before you (or as you) let out the clutch. Its kind of part of the deal. Anyway, lest I prove Cpt obvious any more right, I'll let this go. I use Motul 8100 15-40 by the way....

^^^^ I laughed out loud when I saw that poster, reluctantly ( I'm pretty sure that's not PC ) What oil do most people use?

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I use Collona Organic Extra Virgin olive oil whenever possible.

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Seriously, I don't think that there's any one "right" way to drive on the street. It depends on traffic patterns, driver skill and driver "what I feel like doing". My original post was about a balance between spirited driving and engine wear. Also, is a Porsche some kind of strange animal that likes and needs to be driven hard to stay healthy. Question answered by concensus. Heel and toe is cool. it's a useful skill if you're racing and facilitates rev matching if you're hustling. In south Florida, traffic is such that I'm stopping and going more than I'm going and turning. I find that the need to downshift occurs when I decide to pass someone on the highway, meaning I'm speeding up rather than slowing down. I know some kind of rev-matching takes place but it's not a heel and toe. Anybody ever have the opportunity to rev match on the way up the gears, and not use the clutch at all? I learned this years ago driving around Manhattan in an old AMC Gremlin manual. You can also downshift without the clutch if you match the revs just right and apply just the right amount of pressure to the shift lever. I think it was a trick developed for long distance road or track races to save the clutch. I don't see the need (read:have the *****) to try it on my Porsche, but since we're talking about shifting...

Driving a shifter kart. You only use the clutch to start, after that it's all rpms and bangin gears, up and down

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Sounds like fun. I've read that many F1 drivers came up on shifter karts and recommend them as great practice for getting familiar with race car dynamics.

Going up the gears the transmission input shat is spinning slower then the crank. By letting *off* the throttle you are effectively rev matching. I've shifted all my manuals at one time or another without using the clutch, including my Porsches. Going up is easy, going down is harder, matching the revs exactly is critical. In a street box, the synchros get in the way and take a lot of abuse. Real race boxes have straight cut gears and, correct me if I'm wrong, either no synchros or a different syle of synchro that is designed to be used without a clutch. I used to shift my old MkI Jetta without a clutch to save my left leg. That box was nice and loose and the car was worth like $1000 at the most so I wasn't too worried about it anyway. Rev matched the shifts and never a grind up or down. Its a good skill to have if and when the clutch hydraulics fail. Just last year I drove my Audi Allroad across town from my house to the shop where I had the repairs made. Did it late at night to avoid traffic. I had to stop three times. In that case I shut the car down, put it in first and used the starter motor to get the car going. Clutchless shifts after that. The audi 6 speed is overbuilt so it handled it fine.

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Yeah, I had lots of confidence shifting my $500 Gremlin uo and down. It takes more guts going down - you push the stick towards neutral while you let off the gas. Pop, your in neutral. Then you rev back up with pressure on the stick towards the gear you hope to end up in. When things line up just right, Pop, you're in the next lower gear. Fun? Used to be. Useful? Not much every day but if you ever entered a 24 Hours of Daytona and you bled out your clutch hydraulics...

Since I do several DE's a year, I fall in the Heel and Toe group when street driving. Why? Because I discovered long ago that at ANY speed, as long as you keep practicing, you will do much better at the track when the time comes. Heel and toe, rev-matching when downshifting, double clutching, etc are all common skills taught by very reputable driving schools such as Skip Barber, where I graduated from the advanced racing school a decade ago. From the beginning, the instructors maintained that when driving your street car on the street at normal speeds, you should still use all the techniques so that they are still fluid each time you arrive at the track. They were absolutely correct. I have had 10 years since then to try it both ways (doing it vs not doing it), and as a result I focus now on downshifting with rev-matching (it actually is better for the synchros that way), double clutching down (actually better for the clutch and flywheel that way), and reading and driving "the line" when ever I go around curves on the road. Any road. As for the non-track drivers, you can do whatever you like. Lucky for you, Porsche has some of the best synchos in the business so you can do whatever you like when it comes to upshifting and downshifting. Just don't bang UP through the gears like a drag racer. If 0 to 60 is how you measure your manhood on the street, buy a muscle car.

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*sigh* At some level, this commentary and related examples illustrate the distinction between being able to drive (having the minimum skill set to get a license) and actually being a good driver. There is a difference. [ Interesting side note here ] For example: say you are cruising on the insterstate in the middle lane at the speed limit (65) in 6th gear and a car in front of you brakes hard forcing you to do so as well. Then, you need to swerve to avoid something in the road, or the car in front. If you are still in 6th, you will be hard pressed to do anything except change lanes. If there is a fast(er) car approaching, you won't be able to accelerate much and you might create another unexpected situation. But, if you were a natural at heel-toe, you could grab 5th, or 4th, or even 3rd and be in the right power band to safely avoid the situation and prevent another one from developing. Of course, this is just one example, and there are many others. Please keep in mind that no one is saying heel-toe MUST be done. But, IMO, its pretty closed minded to say it should NEVER be done, or "it's ridiculous," or "reckless," or people are "idiots." Those are pretty strong words for something that is admittedly not understood. -td

Jake, if you're reading this post, I think it would be interesting to retell your experiences running your 996 at redline. Also your take on revving the car near redline often in daily driving.

Slow in and fast out. Repeat often.

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That's what she said?

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Rev matching during everyday driving I get. Heel toe? Well...........Nope, I'm good. I'll stick with my original statement(s). Rev matching is not the same as heel toe, at least not by definition. Heel toe is when part of your foot (the toe) is on the brake, and the other (the heel) is on the accelerator pedal so you can brake and blip the throttle as needed. Something that is definitely necessary when coming into a corner from a high speed/high gear position. It's important to be able to get down into the proper gear for the corner and to do it quickly ergo the need for one foot on two pedals. And, I don't recall saying it should NEVER be done. Look, I get it. I know the "heel toe" guys, I've meet them. They tell me how great their carbon fiber ashtray lid is and how the $8K wheels they just put on make them go faster. And, I'm sure they heel toe all the time.

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Sweet. -td

I thought the heel and toe was actually like the Chevy Chase skit - you don't actually blow ... I think you use the right toes to brake, the left toes to blip the gas. Your heel stays on the floor as a fulcrum. I could be all wet here, but I don't see how your heel can be used for either gas or brake in this maneuver. I should probably try a driver's ed course but for now, can anyone shed light on this method?

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Because shifts over 4000 rpm in 4th put me way over the posted speed limits here in Florida.

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Hi Mark; In some cars it works to brake with ***** of the foot (the toes) and then catch the accelerator with your heel. The old 911 is set up so you *can* do it that way because the gas pedal hinges right off the floor, but few, if any, people do it that way because it requires significant contortion of the foot and because you don't have the fine control of the throttle at the pivot point.. Likewise - in old Italian cars the gas pedal hung up from under the dash way up high. In that case you could brake with your heel and twist your toes over to catch the accelerator. That's most likely where the saying comes from. The most common way nowadays, and the way that comes as second nature to those of us who heel and toe every downshift (like a lot of people here I have to consciously try to not do it) is to apply the brake with the ball of the foot under your big toe at the edge of the brake pedal closest to the throttle. That puts the ball of the foot under your baby toe right on the throttle pedal. Your foot straddles the two pedals you see. Then you can wobble your foot side to side to blip the throttle and modulate the brake pedal as necessary. Porsche pedals are (or should be) set up so that when the brake is down hard it is exactly even with the throttle pedal at the top of it's stroke. No, your heel will not be on the floor board - just as it isn't now when you brake normally. It becomes second nature after a while and contrary to what you may have read here, it does make for a smoother ride and it's easier on the machinery. Carry on good sir.

This is how its done... In loafers and white socks. You Tube

Can't watch Ayrton Senna at work - youtube is disabled. I'm sure he's doing it right. I did however check my own technique on the way to work and it's not exactly as I described it. As I said, it's a second nature behaviour - I don't actually think about it. It's still the ball of the foot under the big toe on the brake - but I turn my foot so that all of the toes except my big toe are on the brake pedal. The big toes is over the gap between the pedals. It's not so much a wobble from side to side, it's more of a pivot around the ball of the foot on the brake. Reminds me of a trick I learned at the track..when hard on the brake and the wheels are *just* locking up - you curl your big toe up. That relieves the pressure on the brake just enough. Nice fine control technique. I also noticed that my heel *is* actually on the floor. Lastly, the 996 throttle also hinges from the floor - like the old 911. I tried contorting my foot to get the heel on the throttle and my toes on the brake, but there's no way. Hey - 8 pages!

Yes, I'm a glutten for punishment. Sooooo, you guys are driving like Ayrton on your everyday drive to work? With the power brakes, your still braking so hard you can easily line up accelerator and brakes pedal planes? Oooookedookie.

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You are right. I dont heel toe but will rev match without braking at the same time coming off exit ramps. Why would anyone want to beat their brakes up like they are on the track is beyond me. Not to mention the possibility of someone rear ending you by stopping too quick on the street.

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A glutton indeed. No we don't drive like Ayrton Senna on the street all the time. As has been told a few times already, heel and toe at street speeds makes for a more comfortable drive and reduces wear and tear on the machinery. I understand that you don't accept this, nevertheless it is true. My Mom wouldn't get it either. The brake pedal lines up with the throttle at moderate braking pressure the same as with heavy braking pressure. Once the brake pads make contact with the brake rotor the pedal doesn't move much, if at all. If it does then you have some work to do on your brake system. Go google hydraulics and then come on back for more punishment.

I've been spending too much time in the Canada forum. I've missed you guys! Practicing heel and toe shifting is mostly unnecessary. So is a manual transmission. But both are a fun way to be more in tune with your Porsche and definitely a way to improve your driving skill. I practice heel and toe at low speeds because that's when its hardest. A smooth downshift into third at track speeds (hard on the brakes) is easy. Try perfecting a downshift into 2nd while approaching the bumper of the car in front of you. Takes confidence and takes practice. I practice it on the family car all winter so that I can improve the 'sensitivity' in my feet and learn the best techniques for different situations/speeds/gears. One day, it might save my life. Hopefully I never find myself in the situation where only heel and toe can save me. I'm more likely to win the lottery. But, I'm prepared for either eventuality!

OK, I give. I'm hoping to go to Hershey this year, anyone wanna volunteer to show me how they heel toe on every day streets? You can even use my car, and also likely point out how bad my car is set up in it's stock form, being that I can't seem to lightly apply the brakes AND blip the throttle. (I had to run some errands today and I tired) I guess my car sucks and I'm a crappy driver.

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OK c'mon now - I'm sure you car doesn't suck. According to the shop manual, the height difference between the brake pedal and the throttle pedal is 25 mm at rest. That's measured by running a straight edge across the face of the brake pedal over the face of the throttle pedal and then measuring the gap. If that distance is good, then your pedals are set up like the rest of ours. It should be pretty close from the factory. The adjustment is easy enough...once you get the gator off the pushrod which is requires destroying the crimp style "hose clamp".. In fact - I'm just about to replace my brake master (new part only $177!) because my brake pedal has had excessive travel since I bought it 3 years ago. It didn't affect my ability to heel/toe - because the human body has like several inches of travel ability in that particular movement. I'm doing it now as I type. I have however driven a number of 996 (including the one I had before this one) and the pedal in each of them has been almost rock hard. Keep practicing - you can't undo 20 years of bad habit in just one day.

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Since we started this thread, I've been driving differently. Slowing down a bit, shifting earlier and generally not pushing things until the entrance onto the Turnpike (OK, still a little bit around town). Someone earlier on said that if you drive all out all the time, you'll get used to the speed and pretty soon want a faster car. I'm pretty sure this is right. I feel like my car is driving with a little less mid-range torque since I had the clutch and ____bearing replaced. Is it possible that the valve timing could have been changed slightly when the cam chains were dis-engaged? Is there any external valve timing adjustment of the variocam system? Or am I just getting used to the car? Thanks for that clip with Ayerton Senna. A pleasure to watch such smooth and precise driving. I don't aspire to be a track guy but watching him at work makes me think, why not give it a try?

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And that is why PCA Driver's Education is so popular.

Just stepping back, don't you think it's kind of funny watching Porsche owners debating what's 'necessary' in a car? I mean, geez... Add me to the heel-and-toe list. I love the involvement. It's the sole reason I have the car. Also add me to the 'drive it like you stole it' list. Engines last longer if they're operated in the range of their peak efficiency.