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YOUR RESEARCHCar Detailing
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Use buffer
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When they become too much for me to stand, I use the buffer.
Leading evidence: 'Use buffer' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean " car' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I use Poorboys Claybar together with Poorboys Spray & Whipe.
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For protection i use the Swissvax (Zuffenhausen) Cleaner and Wax.
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23 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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I am planning on detailing my car for the spring and I"m thinking about ordering P21S cleaner and wax. What say yea all?
What do you use and what do you stay away from.
What kind of motor oil do you like?
I've heard of P21S, but never used it. Personally, I'm a fan of the Griot's Garage products. I've had good success with their polishes and waxes used with a random orbital waxer/polisher/buffer. I think your technique matters more than your product, for the most part. There are lots of good products out there.
I'm not familiar with does products, but if your going to put on a cleaner and wax, it's is good thing to clay the car first. Then the wax will better attach to your paint.
(you think your car is clean but it's really not.)
I use Poorboys Claybar together with Poorboys Spray & Whipe.
For protection i use the Swissvax (Zuffenhausen) Cleaner and Wax.
Go to Autogeeks.net. There are forums there that will give you tons of information on tons of really great products from users. I happen to use Einzett (German products) and Groits
I owned and operated a detail shop for a few years. Unless your car has a lot of surface scratches or swirls I would stay away from an orbital polisher. Like Dennis said above, when using polishing tools, technique is as important as using the correct pads and product. If you decide to learn how to buff/polish with an orbital practice on an old car and read a few tutorials before working on your pcar. Clay bar and a few coats of hand applied wax (with a decent carnauba content) will give you great results. Stay clear of plastic and rubber surfaces. If you dont have a mechanic chair with rollers then certainly buy one.. The chair will allow you take your time on different sections of the car without breaking your back. Clay bar one section at a time until the paint is free of contaminents before moving to the next section.
I love P21S wheel gel for the (duh) wheels. It's gentle on the wheels and removes all but the harshest of dirt/tar/stains...which leads me to a question (not to hijack the thread) of what you guys recommend to use on hard to remove brake dust/tar remnants that sometimes cake on behind the wheels and leave little spots/stains here and there? I'm not a big fan of acids or anything harsh. Should a tar cleaner or maybe even clay do the job?
I also love Pinnacle Souveran wax for its brilliant shine and easy of use -- no caking/discoloration, etc. It goes on and, more importantly, comes off SO easily that I don't approach waxing like a chore. My first use made me a convert. It's pricey at about $100/tub but worth every penny in my opinion.
I also swear by Sonus Paint Sealant which I primarily use on my Sonett because (unlike my C4S) the car's 39 year old original paint is quickly approaching its end of life. It produces truly stunning results.
As for soaps, I've tried everything across the spectrum from Turtle Wax to Griots and other higher end products and I haven't found any big differences between them. In my experience, they're all similarly gentle on the paint and any wax.
-Eric
I don't use the random orbital buffer every time I wax the car. Unfortunately, my midnight blue car shows scratches and swirl marks very easily. When they become too much for me to stand, I use the buffer. I typically hand wax the car with Griot's Best In Show carnauba wax. I use spray-on wax after each washing. I only use the clay bar about once a year to remove stubborn deposits.
I've been considering trying Griot's paint sealer, but I haven't yet.
+1 on the clay bar. You will be amazed at what comes off your "clean" car. I either use Meguires or Mothers wax. I polish it by hand once every quarter or so, and usually have it professionally polished every other year.
Yea and yea. And all of the above. Took my car to my indy mechanic and one of his crew said, "Wow, who details your car?" When I realized they were being complementary I was shocked.
Wash, clay, wash, wax. I use P21S soap, wax and tire cleaner. But all of the above are great too.
Bottom line: don't use dish soap. And use a proper wool mitt, for goodness sakes!
I was afraid to do the orbital cleaner/polish wax job,but the Griots stuff is really safe and they have a dvd that will tell you how to do everything.I highly reccomend it.
Meguires Gold Class for the leather. Zip Wax in the bucket every time I wash it. Old fashioned elbow grease along with a wash leather to dry it off then a run in the country.
I have never paid to have a car detailed but decided last night that due to the swirl marks on the pait I was going to try a pro.
I used Meguires clay bar and cleaner wax last year and thought it did a great job of reducing the swirl marks and making the car shine. I added a coat of Porsche brand wax (not sure who makes it).
Yes wax hides the swirls, it fills them a up a little. But does not remove them. Eventually when the wax gets old, (decent wax lasts about 3 - 6 months, depends on the climate) the swirls will become visible again.
The Swissvax products marked with "Zuffenhausen" are specially made for Porsche paints. The wax has a long durability and gives amazing beading!
It's recommended to polish the car after using the clay. You may cause some extra swirlmarks due to the clay. Especially with more harder claybars.
If you are not going to polish it, i'd rather go for a medium or even a soft claybar to begin with.
As a Pro detailer (part time these days) The question you need to ask yourself is what are your concerns with the car currently?
Many peole don't really have an eye for or don't necessarily care if the car has developed surface marring or light swirling. The majority of the market wants a car that's protected, won't fade over time and has a great shine and gloss when clean. If those are your goals choose whatever product sells itself the best to you and have at it. Putting in a little time and elbow grease will give you a good result and a sense of satisfaction at the same time.
If you're seeing swirl marks, surface marring, and small defects that are starting to bother you then look into the services of a professional to help restore the car to the best condition it can be. As with any service industry you really owe it to yourself to do your homework to find the right detailer for you as well as the correct level of service. Alot of the guys that are really good are not cheap but they are definitely worth the money.
Check over at Autopia.org and see if there are any Autopian detailers in your area. That whole community follows standards that should get you a high quality result if you choose to outsource.
Andy
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