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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHAnother battery issue
Leading reported evidence
Check atlernator and voltage regulator, etc
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Suggestion
If the current draw is not very high then you check the atlernator and voltage regulator, etc.
Leading evidence: 'Check atlernator and voltage regulator, etc' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check atlernator and voltage regulator, etc' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
If the number is high (~100mA?) you would need to start checking door switches and then start pulling fuses individually until you notice a large drop in current draw.
Check obvious - such as interior lights being left
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Suggestion
Assume you've checked the obvious - such as interior lights being left on, or the trunk or rear deck-lid being left open with light on?
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Suggestion
If the ignition switch fails - and I understand this can leave circuits that are normally powered off live - is there a quick check on the dash or something that would confirm that the ignition switch had not killed all the circuits it's supposed to?
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Suggestion
Pulling fuses (with the multimeter attached) and relays (to check a relay you need to attach the multimeter before you remove the ground strap from the battery) will point out the offending component or wiring.
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Suggestion
If the number is high (~100mA?) you would need to start checking door switches and then start pulling fuses individually until you notice a large drop in current draw.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Suggestion
If the ignition switch fails - and I understand this can leave circuits that are normally powered off live - is there a quick check on the dash or something that would confirm that the ignition switch had not killed all the circuits it's supposed to?
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Suggestion
Pulling fuses (with the multimeter attached) and relays (to check a relay you need to attach the multimeter before you remove the ground strap from the battery) will point out the offending component or wiring.
easy way to do it would be to run the trigger to 15 power instead of 30 power that way its only on with the key on and you dont have to plug or unplug or play with switches
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Suggestion
Amazed that your battery could be killed by this alone - do you perhaps do short trips when you do use the car, not giving the alternator enough time to recharge the battery after the start?
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I just bought a new duralast battery from Autozone. If my car sits for 3 or 4 days, it will not start without a jump. Once it's started, its fine for a few days. I thought it may have been the cold weather, but it hasn't been cold...
Could this be the alternator?
Thanks people!!
Most likely (if the battery is not faulty) you have an errant current draw. Do you own an ampmeter or a multimeter? If so, you could put the multimeter between the battery negative post and the chassis ground and then disconnect the ground strap from the battery. The multimeter will then show the number of (hopefully) milliamps of current draw. If the number is high (~100mA?) you would need to start checking door switches and then start pulling fuses individually until you notice a large drop in current draw. Pulling fuses (with the multimeter attached) and relays (to check a relay you need to attach the multimeter before you remove the ground strap from the battery) will point out the offending component or wiring. And then you just need to go from there. If the current draw is not very high then you check the atlernator and voltage regulator, etc.
you also need to lock the car and wait for it to go to sleep before you start pulling fuses.
do you have aaftermarekt stero equipmnet or sat radio or a radar detector or a phone charger you leave plugged in all the time
that could do it. easy way to do it would be to run the trigger to 15 power instead of 30 power that way its only on with the key on and you dont have to plug or unplug or play with switches
It's pretty annoying the key-off drain is so high on these cars. The key remote is among the poorest performance imaginable, yet they turn off the receiver after a week to preserve the battery. My minivan sits for two weeks w/o turning off the receiver (which works from 10x as far away) and the battery doesn't go dead. I love Porsches, but really. Pfft!
Bill
if you have a wiring diagram for the radar it will shwo which is the trigger wire .
15 is a key on power that turns off with the key off. there should be 2 term 15 points in your fuse block
From what was said, I suspect it's just a plug in RADAR - correct?
So unplugging it is a great idea, will reduce you power drain for sure.
Amazed that your battery could be killed by this alone - do you perhaps do short trips when you do use the car, not giving the alternator enough time to recharge the battery after the start?
if this is the case - get a battery maintainer from the dealership, and plug-in at the lighter socket. $60
Assume you've checked the obvious - such as interior lights being left on, or the trunk or rear deck-lid being left open with light on?
One other possibility that comes to mind is a failed ignition switch. These can fail leaving the car 'powered' even with the key removed, and drain the battery that way very quickly.
On your 02 it's a possibility - and in fact would explain the rapid drain better than a radar detector being left on.
Current draw when idle should determine if you have excessive standing current - as previously mentioned.
Brad - is there a quick test to see if the ignition has failed 'powered-up'?
If that's inconclusive you could have a faulty battery - or faulty charging.
If the ignition switch fails - and I understand this can leave circuits that are normally powered off live - is there a quick check on the dash or something that would confirm that the ignition switch had not killed all the circuits it's supposed to?
i.e. something obvious that should not work without the ignition being ON, but is still working with the key removed.
the headlights are the most obvious to stay on with the key off but generaly you can feel a bad switch
if hes leaving his radar plugged in thats the most likley casue
you would be amazed how much current those little things will pull