Should I corner balance my C4S?

I recently purchased a set of PSS9s for my 996 C4S and plan on having them installed after the holidays. I have called around several local shops and I'm getting conflicting reports on whether or not I need to corner balance my car. I do most of my driving on the street, but bought the PSS9s for the occasional DE that I do (and I like the lowered look). I want to maximize the ability of the car, so I am curious to hear your opinions on the subject. One shop is telling me that I would only need to corner balance the car if I am using it to race. Otherwise, it is a waste of money. Others say "why buy PSS9s if you aren't going to corner balance"? Has anyone else been through this? Thoughts?

I would agree with the advice you have received. I track my 01 996 with PSS9s and I had corner balanced without mufflers and with muffler bypass pipes. For a trak application, it helps to balance the car. For the street, I would not worry about it

For the money you're spending on the suspension parts, the installation (your post sounds like you're paying a shop to do the work), and the alignment, it just doesn't make any sense not to get it corner balanced.

for the few extra bucks during install, just have it done.

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+1 it significantly improves the handling no matter where you drive the car.

Just do it!

Waste of money if you are not tracking the car. You wouldn't be able to tell the difference for street driving. Just make sure they get the ride height adjusted properly when they install the shocks.

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100% agreed.

I installed pss9, then I had the car set up by a shop...I am on the street 90% of the time and D.E. when I can The shop that did the alignment is very good and set up for, little more aggressive than stock but less than full race. I went with his recommendations on camber and toe, and I did the corner Balance with me in the car I am very happy with how the car feels...on the street and track -1.8deg front camber -2.3deg rear camber 1/16" total front toe in 3/16" total rear toe in Jerry

You're running toe-in up front??? Why???

Dell went with his recommendations, I am not qualified to make that choice... however the car handles a lot better after, pss9, New sway bars and corner setup I have a long time to go before the car setup will be the cause of faster/slower lap times Jerry

Jerry, toe-in up front is NOT GOOD! Going wiht toe-in up front will INCREASE understeer (kills turn-in), scrubs speed, and accelerates tire wear. You WANT anything from neutral toe to slight toe-out up front.

Dell do you know what is stock set up? The car has way less understeer than before... seems very responsive... Jerry

IIRC, the "stock" or "factory" setting is 5 minutes (same as .0265 inches or less than 1mm) of toe-in (like you have) as the car is setup to understeer (think safety). My guess is that your sway settings have changed (if you have adjustable sways). If not, there are a HOST of other issues that contribute to less understeer....like better neg camber. All toe-in/out does is affect initial turn in then camber takes over (obviously that is a very simplistic answer).

So that makes sense, My wife also drives the car and he knew that, so he set up the camber little more aggressive than stock but left the toe as is (safety) He offers a track day and can adjust the car during the day with me, I told him that after I get a little more seat time, I would do that with him Thanks Dell Jerry

Very welcome. Just so we're on the same page, I am not saying there is anything wrong with your settings as settings are a personal preference thing, but more I just wanted to understand that you understand why I questioned your choice for toe-in up front. Happy Motoring and Happy Holidays!

Thanks for the feedback. I'm excited to feel the difference between my stock suspension and the PSS9s on the track. I'm leaning towards corner balancing, just to realize the full potential of the coilovers. I need all the help I can get moving this tank through the corners. Hopefully the PSS9s will tighten things up a bit. It's unbelievable all the variables for track cars (tire pressure, tire compounds, wheel alignement, sway bar adjustments, balancing, shock dampening/stiffness, etc). It's enough to make your head spin. No wonder Ross Brawn is in such demand. Keep the dialog going, I appreciate hearing about other's setups and preferences. Jerry, thanks for taking the time to provide specifics on your alignment.

I track 3-4 weekends out of the year... Im running settings 1/f & 1/r on my pss9's, though Im happy with pss9's... I feel that if I do more DE's, I fear that I may outgrow them.... maybe I need a track car!

Redridge, Is "1" the firmest setting? If so, how does it feel on the street? I don't mind it being stiff around town (reminds me I'm not in a Camry), but I don't want my fillings to rattle out either. Also, how difficult is it to reach the adjustment dial? Is it too much work to dial it down before a DE and then return it to a softer setting the rest of the time?

I've been off the boards awhile, unlike Dell, who seems to be here forever. Almost 13,000 posts!! Anyway, the 996 board has had a subtle change since the 997 board has gone active. More posts on practical and DIY things, centered on performance rather than bling. I think I like it better. Best initial performance upgrade on the 996 is exactly what you've got, a suspension upgrade. It's practical, usable, noticeable. Better than HP upgrades, which, IMHO, only means bragging rights rather than a true performance upgrade. Definitely corner balance it since you have the capability for it. Further improves on-track preformance without sacrificing streetability. I have the X73 on mine, and I initially went with the same settings you have: max neg camber and leave everything else standard. I've gone more neutral now on the toe-in. Gives a little tramlining on the street, but significantly improves turn-in. Once you have more seat time and get more comfortable sliding the car in corners, you may want to try that. You will notice more inside wear, especially on the rear wheels, if you drive a lot on the street. Choice of tires is key to get the appropriate mileage on tires. Avoid assymetric tires, those that have inside and outside preference, since you won't be able to swap them. Or, you can jsut do what I do. That them out to the track more frequently. With the upgraded suspension, you'll be tempted to get track tires. Don't. At least , not yet. Get used to sliding that car around, oversteering, understeering, rotating. Street tires will allow you to do it at slower therefore safer and more comfortable speeds. Street tires will also communicate better, making all kinds of noises way before they reach their absolute traction limit. Plus, I think it's pretty cool when your car squeels through all the corners. All always, that's just IMHO.

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depends on the tires, with Pzero I find that I have to go softer (yes 1 is stiffer 9 being the softest). In NJ/NY 1/1 is to harsh, I find on Pzero's, I max it at 3/3 on nice spirited drives. The rears are easy to adjust, lift carpet and its right there. The fronts' you have to go under the car or turn the wheel at full lock and do a reach around...though you cant see the settings this way and have to go by the feel/hear clicks on the adjustments. Its easy to do but removing the rubber cap can be a pain.

Palting - long time no see!! How have you been? Where have you been? Give us a quick update, buddy. Good to have you back!

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Ahh yes, removing and putting back that rubber cap without changing the settings IS a pain! A note, if the car has Bose stereo, the bose subwoofer has to be removed, or just slid off slightly, to expose the rear shock mounts/adjustment ****.

This is probably a simplistic question, but my assumption has always been that lowering a car results in a harsher/firmer ride. Are there exceptions to this? (I have some long drives over rough roads where a firmer-than-stock suspension would be genuinely uncomfortable & tiring over the course of the trip.)

And you would be correct that is a simplistic question. There is much more to "harshness" of ride as that is a subjective statement. In a nutshell does ride height contribute? Absolutely it can. But is it ride height that creates it? No. A few of the more deciding factors to think about : Tires Springs Shocks (compression/rebound)