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YOUR RESEARCHSo, do you let your car warm up or just get up and go...
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Check oil level
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So, do you let your car warm up or just get up and go...
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Leading evidence: 'Check oil level' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check oil level' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
In reality that's the most important gauge because there's nothing worse than trying to hit a fast gear change when the transmission fluid won't let you.
So, do you let your car warm up or just get up and go...
Run thru the engine
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Suggestion
Not sure if that's needed,but I like the oil to be a bit warm and running thru the engine before I start to travel.
So, do you let your car warm up or just get up and go...
Use constant throttle
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Using constant throttle when going from 1st to 2nd to 3rd it kind of "hovers" for 0.5 sec around 2.5k in 2nd and then quite quickly spools up to 3k and I have to shift to 3rd.
So, do you let your car warm up or just get up and go...
Replace when the transmission fluid won't let you
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Suggestion
In reality that's the most important gauge because there's nothing worse than trying to hit a fast gear change when the transmission fluid won't let you.
So, do you let your car warm up or just get up and go...
Use constant throttle
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Using constant throttle when going from 1st to 2nd to 3rd it kind of "hovers" for 0.5 sec around 2.5k in 2nd and then quite quickly spools up to 3k and I have to shift to 3rd.
So, do you let your car warm up or just get up and go...
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Hi everyone...so, I had always heard and been under the assumption that it is a wise choice (especially on German cars) to start up the engine and let it idle for a few minutes before driving. I was looking through my 996 manual last night and it says to start driving the car right away, not to let the engine idle...what do you guys think and what do you guys do? especially the ones with higher mileage? Thanks in advance.
I always let mine warm up but you do not have too. My other cars I just start up and go. I am used to my 87 911 that I would let warm up. But it is not necessary.
Mike
I let it warm up just until the choke (higher rev) settles to normal. Seems to take about 30-45 seconds.
I then do not drive it over 3K rpm until both oil pressure and temp reaches normal levels.
After that I run her up to 6K in 1st and 2nd gears and cruise on city streets at between 3500 and 4000rpm.
How about you guys....................average mileage is around 17-18.
I do the same thing...I usually let the car sit until the idle comes down to 750K. Takes about 1 or 2 minutes. Then don't rev much past 3k until I hit 180 on the temp. guage. Not sure if that's needed,but I like the oil to be a bit warm and running thru the engine before I start to travel. Pushing 51k miles.
J
Not me. Just crank it up and go. Maybe 5 seconds of warm up while I'm buckling in. And I don't think a P-car will get to 180 in a warm up lap on the track, so I would guess that isn't needed before full throttle.
-td
Guys
The manual though says under "Starting Engine":
-When starting the engine, be ready to drive immediately.
-Drive at moderate speeds and avoid engine speeds above 4200rpm during the first 5 minutes.
(For the 993s, this is a big problem ofr the 97-98 models. The SAI clogs so easily and triggers the CEL on these late model 993s.)
+1 that's the way to do it; don't let her sit with the running engine - drive her! Just one remark; the coolant temp is one indicator but the main thing is to warm up the engine oil which thakes longer than the coolant (5min) oil (10min), so I usually don't push her beyond 4-5k RPM for 5 more min. after reaching 180 degrees coolant temp. The transmission oil (good indicator, especially with a short shifter installed) gives me further a feeling of how long the oil takes to warm up.
That's a very good point! In reality that's the most important gauge because there's nothing worse than trying to hit a fast gear change when the transmission fluid won't let you.
Never let the car sit idle. Grass will start to grow on it's wheels!
Like most everyone, I drive it as soon as I get buckled in. No idling warmup at all. I do take it easy for several minutes. Warm up laps on track are just that: warm up laps. I shift early @3500, usually go a gear or two higher than the usual, have my hand out the window to let anyone wishing to pass with a cold engine and under yellow. Unless it's a real short track, the engine is fully warmed up way before the warm up lap is done.
The main reason for the manual's advise to just drive (under 3K RPM of course) is that
you can create hot points in the engine.
Hot points are less relevant when the whole engine is already hot.
Besides, why would you sit and wait idling, and then take off with a cold transmission (and tires)?
The point is, everything should warm up gradually, so everything expands or distorts as evenly as
possible- that only happens when you drive, not idle.
Sooo, like the manual says, do not wait and idle.
John
+1 here. No waiting at idle. The manual must make this clear for a good reason..
Just drive below 3k until reaching normal op. temp. As soon as op. temp. is reached AND transmission oil is warmed up (easy to feel in the shifter); let'r rip !
I start it up, buckle up, put my sunglasses on... and GO! I keep it under 4,000 until the temp is up to 180 degrees.
Then I drive it like I stole it,
especially this week!
Same as a lot of the others, start it up and go but never rev over 3k until temp hits 180.
Follow-up question for those of you with a Tiptronic. Until the engine gets warm (160 or so) the 2nd gear in my C2 is "wierd". Using constant throttle when going from 1st to 2nd to 3rd it kind of "hovers" for 0.5 sec around 2.5k in 2nd and then quite quickly spools up to 3k and I have to shift to 3rd. This only happens in 2nd gear and when the engine is cold. Once warm revs builds smoothly in all gears.
I actually used to wait until the engine dropped into normal idle before driving (~30 sec), and then keep it under 4k until the temp was up around 160.
After reading the posts here I guess I should change that and start driving immediately (while still staying under 4k until the engine reaches normal operating temp of course).
I swear I learn something every time I read this forum.
-
Key on, back out of garage,put on seatbelt,put it in 1st gear and drive up my driveway holding revs down until car comes up to temp, accompanied by another ear to ear grin because I'm having another P-car driving experience.
I drive all my cars the same way, including the Ferrari. (start and take off) My 993 had 90k miles on her when I sold it absolutely no leaks, and motor were as strong as day one.
until secondary air injection pump shuts off.
This takes at the worst maybe a minute. But it is enough time to get a bit of heat into the engine.
Even so, I keep RPMs and engine loads down until engine (and drivetrain) fully up to operating temperature.
On real cold days I've driven the Boxster 10 miles at 40mph to 45mph speeds and still seen fairly cold engine coolant temperatures. These Boxster (and Carrera) engines are massive lumps of alum. and have lots of oil and coolant to warm up.
Anyhow, I've been doing this ever since I bought car new in 02 and I just rolled the odometer over the 189,000 mark. Engine still starts right up, idles smooth and still runs great and uses just a half quart or less of oil between its 5000 mile oil/filter services.
Sincerely,
Macster.
You guys are crazy with this warming the engine up business. I completely forgo this silliness by never turning the car off. I just drive it 24/7
All kidding aside. I turn it on, put on the seatbelt, creap out of the garage and then nice and easy below 3K for the 1st 5 minutes or so.
I turn ignition to "on" and check oil level. I want it slightly over the 1/2 mark cold. Then crank it, then go, keeping it under 3500 rpm until engine temp is 50+ C. Then under 4,000 until warm (70+ C). I make sure not to get spirited until it's driven about 10-15 minutes to make sure everything's warmed up. More in cold of winter.
Once warm, I never change gears below 3000 rpms and target 4,500 rpms. I try and get 5,000+ rpms at least once/day. I also make it a point to drive 4,000+rpms. for at least 5 minutes steady.
sometimes you will see race mechanics jump in a race car sitting in the paddock, start it, rev it a few times (to redline) and then turn it off. The explanation (someone much wiser than myself) gave me - was to "slosh" oil around the engine (to keep it from pooling, by sitting). I was advised that its not so much driving a "cold" engine that is bad, but the load applied to the engine when cold. Hence, the rec that you keep the revs down until everything is up to temp.
Personally (this part is no doubt voodoo) I turn the ignition on and wait about 5 secs then start it, let it idle for about 20 seconds then drive under 3-4K until the temp is 180. The car always makes some funny starting sound when I just pop in it and start without even a little pause....
My Harley pre-pressurizes the fuel injector rails by turning on the fuel pump when the key is turned on. If I start it immediately, it takes quite a while to catch. If I wait 5 seconds and hear the fuel pump turn on and then off, the bike fires up immediately and perfectly.
I have disabled the clutch switch so I can keep the car in first gear, clutch out, hit the starter and I'm moving before the engine even starts!
Seriously...I just start it, buckle up and go. It was wierd doing that when I first got the car but I'm used to it now.
The rings need pressure to actually seal properly. When you are idleing, there's no pressure to speak of, so you get blow-by gases and and crap getting by the rings, as the pistons just rattle around unseated in the cylinders. Maybe "rattle around" is a little harsh - but you get the point. Just start the car and drive off, and take it easy till it warms up fully.
+1
In the past two weeks, the car has:
- Come second in the Silver State 140mph class
- Held a sustained 160+mph during the Silver State run
- Crossed the country from CA to DE via Reno, Ely, Vegas, Albuquerque, Dallas, Graceland, and Bristol
- Averaged 26mpg
- Reached 95k
looney2n
Some of the hot spots I believe would be the top of the cylinder chamber right where
the explosions are occurring (six spots right there)
Whenever the difference in temperature is excessive, usually metals warp
(some parts expand because they are getting hot, others, like towards the
bottom of the crank case, do not expand yet because they are still cold)
Why doubt and fight the Porsche's manual? If it says "Do not idle, just start the
engine and go",
but nope,
some guys in here somehow think they know better and still "idle for x seconds
or x minutes and then go".
Now I go pack my parachute- I read the instructions on the Internet.
start the engine and let it sit for a good 10-30 secs (depend if i'm in a hurry or not) to see if everything sounds right and no warning lights from the dash then keep it under 3k rpm for a good 5 minutes everytime at least till the car is fully warmed up (180).
Oh yeah, I meant to ask: did the car take your last week's 'punishment' with aplomb? I've always had the feeling that my cars have driven better when I've driven them more 'thoroughly'.
