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YOUR RESEARCHiffy clutch... just doesnt feel right-
Leading reported evidence
Check clutch play
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Suggestion
I used this method as a way to check clutch play on my old cable operated 911s.
Leading evidence: 'Check clutch play' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check clutch play' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Disconnect anything, dislodge a piston in a slave or master
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Suggestion
Disconnect anything, dislodge a piston in a slave or master?
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Suggestion
The key here is that you do not over fill the system.
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Suggestion
We use either Mobil 1 LS 75w-90 or Redline 75w-90.
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When I did my IMS, I did the clutch. I never took the hydrolic line off the clutch slave.. Do you think I should have blead the clutch anyway?
Here is what its doing. Yes it has the new-style fork. it's a 99 c2, 140,000 miles
When the car is cold and tranny oil is cold the car shifts but is hard to shift. For example, cars is cold, started the car with the clutch in and the car in reverse.. I go to pull the car out of reverese and it pulls out hard.. It feels like you are pulling the car out of gear drving down the road with out depressing the clutch.... fluids come up to temp and all is good in the Porsche world.
thoughts? bleed the clutch?
+1 on bleeding it.
If you start it in neutral and keep the clutch depressed can you slide it into reverse without gear clash/grinding? Or start it in reverse pull it out give it a second and then slide it in again?
If the clutch is dragging you will feel the teeth slide past each other/grind in non syncro reverse very easily if you feel for it with the shifter.
I used this method as a way to check clutch play on my old cable operated 911s. You can feel exactly when the clutch starts to drag when the teeth start to move past each other.
Yes, bleed the clutch hydraulics, but if you have balky shifting when cold, it could be the gear oil. Change it out with Porsch OEM, don't use anything else. Suncoast shipped is around $100.
No, it won't hurt, but like brakes, there is no need to bleed the system unless you got air in it. Did you ever loosen the bleeder or a line? Disconnect anything, dislodge a piston in a slave or master? Run it extremely low or out of fluid? If all nos, no need to bleed.
When the trans lube is cold it is thick and most all manual gear boxes shift slow. 2nd gear seems worse than 3rd up in most all boxes. The gear box warms up slower than the motor so even if coolant temp is 180+ the tranny can still shift a bit sluggish. Judge the shifting when you've been at operating temp for 15-30 minutes, longer if it's really cold outside. Matching Rs and shifting slow and deliberate will help when cold.
Kyle, Did you replace the throw out bearing, guide tube, pivot pin (for fork) as well as the Trans fluid?
First off, Bleeding the system will not hurt... chances are that is not the problem. If you did not replace the bearing or guide tube... these could be acting up until everything warms up. Next check to see how your shift cables are attached... Confirm they move smoothly and are firmly secure on the pins. also, these are intended to be 1 time use items... It would not hurt to wire tie them on if you reused them. If you did change the fluids... did you over fill? This can give you the same trouble... As for the brand you used... OEM is not required as long as you place 75w-90 in it... We use either Mobil 1 LS 75w-90 or Redline 75w-90. The key here is that you do not over fill the system.
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