fail safe question

For a 99 is there a fail safe mode to not allow the engine to start?

Yes, immobilizer in the security system.

clutch switch

IMS failure, ... ....... .........

that would just be FAIL

Ok so there isn't a engine code that will not allow the engine to turn over? I don't consider an immob a engine code. Thanks guys

I think you need to tell us more.

this is fun

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Immobilizer would not throw and engine code but it will throw a code if it has a fault. are you using something to scan the car?

dead battery? ..... there is a mode where the car thinks its been in an accident and will shut the fuel pump off.

redridge this is what its behavior is. There was a clamp that wasn't seated right on a coolant hose right under the p/s and engine harness connection lines. The hose popped open but not off. When it popped the engine immediatly shut off. It then acted as if the battery were dead. The voltage isn't even registering 12v.

I tried jumping it and still got the same behavior

Jumping it from the battery, or the engine compartment? There is a big ground wire from the P/S side that degrades overtime Could be your problem in the MY99

DME fuse ?

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Regarding the fuel pump shut off... based on my experience there may be a shut off in the case of an accident, but after my Cayman S was hit (and declared a total loss -- impact sufficiently violent to cause both air bags to deploy) when I was at the body shop talking things over with body shop owner his helper went out and started the engine to move the car out of the way of an incoming delivery. I was surprised that the engine started. Sincerely, Macster.

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Can you take a pic from this mystery hose?

My battery had a dead cell once and it would turn everything but the car on with no issues. When I tried to crank the car it didnt make a ticking noise or dim the lights. New battery fixed all the issues.

Sounds like the leak did some damage to an electrical connection, or when you were working in the area you did some damage.

I thought I noted it was a coolant hose. There is only one coolant hose under the airbox. If I had damaged anything working on the car the car wouldn't have had the chance to drive down the road and blow the hose off now would it?? If the car is in the mode where it 'thinks it's been in some sort of wreck' how do I clear that out to allow it to try and start?

So the battery tests out at 12 volts at the battery? The current doesn't register at the volt meter on the dashboard? or are you measuring it at the engine/starter

I'm just going off the dash guage. As soon as I try to turn it over it just clicks one time (not repeatedly) and then the meter drops to zero. I have tried to jump it but does the same thing. I'm going to try and put a battery charger on it and see what that does. Also I'm going to try and rotate the crank to make sure it's not locked up.

I think you may have a dead battery that is complicating this situation. unless at the battery terminals you have 12V What have been working on with this car? Why do you think the crank is would be locked up?

Hmmm. Did it have time to fry the engine?

I never rule anything out bc I know anything can happen. Whether it's common or not. Only reason I could see it being locked up is from vapor or it just happened that quickly. It never read on the temp guage that it over heated. The engine immediately shut itself off after the hose popped. I figured it did that bc it saw a loss in pressure and went into a fail safe mode like Audis do. Audis are what I came from. I've been building Audis for almost 10 years now and finally got into a porsche. It had an intermix problem of oil getting in the coolant. Not coolant getting into the oil. So I pulled the engine and did a while I was in there thing of upgrades that consisted of: underdrive crank aasco lwfw sachs race clutch new throw out bearing new aos new oil cooler new water pump new 160 tstat muffler deletes honed out the inner welds on the manifolds and ceramic coated them new 05 coolant cap new coolant resivour solid subframe mounts solid engine mounts oil change

try disconnecting the battery for 5-10 min.... start with the simple stuff first, make sure it has a good charge.... does the starter click?

I tried and let it sit for a few min. Starter clicks once only. It clicks a single click noise and that's it.

If it does the same thing when jumping - unlikely to be the battery itself. Mine did that after the DME fuse rattled loose (after stereo shop had taken out and replaced all the fuses trying to find the bose amp fuse) - that is a 1 minute check. Other reason that you might get something like that is bad ground connection - there is a big ground strap under the engine. Check ground strap is tight and not corroded there - and also on the starter itself while you look at it.

Was that the first time you ran it after all those repairs?

Yes, it was the first time. I had started it the night before and let it idle till it reached operating temps and gave it a few revs. I charged it and nothing so I removed the airbox to gain access to the crank. I tried to rotate and shes locked up. So I removed the throttle body and plenum to see the I/M filled bad with oil. My friends Dad of a Dayton, OH Porsche dealer said it sounds like there is something cloging the breather system causing it blow the oil into the I/M. I'm thinking it is a bad AOS because I also got a intermix of oil in the coolant and the coolant overflow tank was getting over pressurized causing it to blow out and drain through the drain tube all over the exhaust. Going to drop the engine and replace the AOS and the lines, clean the I/M out, remove the spark plugs, and HOPEFULLY get it to turn over after adding some break loose. Not expecting that to work. So if that's the case she's sitting in the garage all winter and is getting stroked to a 3.7. If that's the case I plan to research to figure out what parts are used to do this as I am having my friend make me titanium rods for it to reduce roational mass while increasing strength since I plan to boost it. I'd like to be able to get it driving but I'll be just as happy to fully build inside out for the 4 months of winter. Any comments appreciated

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Reads like a bad AOS. In some cases the AOS can fail in such a way the crankcase is subjected to full engine 'vacuum' and this can pull enough oil from the crankcase which is course routed to the intake manifold and the engine can experience hydraulic lock due too much oil. It only takes one cylinder and it doesn't take much oil. I'd look at the AOS and how it is connected/hooked up to ensure it isn't some relatively simple installation goof. If the AOS's integrity is questionable it might be worth the effort to simply fit a new AOS. But it would be nice to know it was (or was not) the AOS. If it is the AOS, fine. If not then you have to figure out where the oil is coming from. I can think the head oil scavage pumps being installed incorrectly. They can be swapped, the one for cylinder bank 1 installed in the hole for cylinder bank 2 and vice versa, but the pumps do not turn the right way and will not scavage oil. Or scavage pumps for say just one bank were bought not knowing there's a difference. Anyhow, since this is the first time you fired up the engine after a rebuild you have to consider something like an oil scavage pump mixup. Titanium rods are nice, but don't skimp on the rod bolts. Sincerely, Macster.

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Combined, this is a scary list to me (done properly scary in the right way). During your repairs did you tear your engine completely down (to the crank) and have it balanced?

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Indeed, rod bolts from ARP are only about $100.

Macster, I didn't do an engine rebuild. I just pulled the engine to get the experience and to replace those mentioned items. I always do a tear down of any car I buy from another person. It also had a intermix issue prior to buying the car so I knew what I was getting into. The engine itself is fairly new and installed by Porsche so I felt it was a good gamble that it was caused by an item that would be swapped back onto the new engine from porsche bc I'm assuming they don't include every accessory when you purchace a new one ie the AOS and oil cooler. logray, no I didn't have the moving assembly balanced. I did search enough and I did read your comments/thoughts on the issue of the lwfw and ud crank. You are the only one I saw along with the company you quoted on suggesting this. I know I was always a sceptic when I was building Audi 1.8T engines that used a dmfw and always suggested the same as you, but after seeing numerous people go against that in Audis and the people I read on with Porsches I don't see anything wrong with it. It needed a new clutch and fw so this is what I wanted to go with. At some point I will be doing a race build on the engine very soon so that doesn't at all concern me. I take it that is what you ment by my list al together is a scary combination in a bad way?? I did get it to break free lastnight. The cylinders were filled with oil mixture and the lines from the AOS were also filled. Ordered all new lines, AOS, and denso IK22 plugs.