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YOUR RESEARCHWhich year is best buy?
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Replace ", you mean the engine
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Nick I assume when you say "had the original replaced", you mean the engine.
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Also, and this is only my opinion, don't be sold on "cheap." If you're looking for a cheap car, check the Toyota boards.
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Suggestion
The LN bearing is far superior and would most likely never need to be replaced but you'll never hear Jake say that, for good reason.
Replace much between '02 and '04 (or '05, depending
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Suggestion
They didn't really change much between '02 and '04 (or '05, depending on the model).
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Suggestion · Original poster
I take it not much has changed on on the IMS or RMS issue from 1999 to 2003?
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Hello everyone I am new to your forum. I am planning on buying a 996 and wanted your advice on any advantages on buying one particular year over another. I am buying a coupe and a manual for sure. I also like the targas. Been looking for about a year now and getting close. Not my first porsche but my first 996. I am sure this has been asked before but maybe you can rehash for old time sake. Any comments are welcome. Thanks
do you have how hard of a question this is to answer... OMG.. if you have the money a 2012 would be great!
if you are low on cash a 99
If you are not scared by all the BS with IMS and just want a cheaper toy a 99
If you are all worried about IMS and this and that... a 2004+
If you just want something to play with and you really dont care and you want to stay cheaper so you can beat the snot out of it and not worry about it a 99
if you cant stand the headlights being like a boxter.. one that doesnt.. Not sure the year
I feel like WOPR playing tic tac toe... I give up.... you have to choose what is best FOR YOU....
pre-2002 engines were 3.4ltr with vario cam, 2002 on 3.6 and vario cam plus, there were also cosmetic changes. 2005 more cosmetic changes and some minor engine changes. As you may know Porsche tends to evolve the 911 so as Bruce Anderson says "Best to buy the newest one that you can afford."
Thanks for the good and entertaining advice. My budget is somewhat variable but will most likely spend under $32,000 for this car. I take it not much has changed on on the IMS or RMS issue from 1999 to 2003?
Generally the best "year" of any model is its last since it arguably it includes all of the improvements the manufacturer could pack into the model. As offered above, buy the best example you can find. I think that's the best advice. I'd rather have an immaculately well cared for '98 than a neglected '04. Also, and this is only my opinion, don't be sold on "cheap." If you're looking for a cheap car, check the Toyota boards. Just because you can buy a $20K 996 doesn't mean it's a bargain or inexpensive to maintain.
First figure out what's most important to you: options, color, mileage, etc. As also pointed out, MkI and MkII cars had different engines. MkI cars didn't have glove compartments. MkI Cabs had plastic windows, whereas MkII Cabs had glass ones. Figure out what you want, pick the year or range of years and be patient. The car you want is out there.
Best of luck.
-Eric
We bought a '99 Boxster in early '02, still have it BTW. I looked for a 996 shortly after and bought a '99 Cab. Had it 7 years, then bought an '04 Turbo Cab which I still have.
What I like:
Mechanical throttle makes driving much more pleasurable than the electronic one that is '01 and newer.
I like the 3.4 motor better than the 3.6
'99 and '00 are lighter overall and you can feel the difference in the cars handling.
'99-'01 headlights are styled after the GT1 racer. I like them the best.
For these reasons above, I'd look for a late '99 or '00. Many cars are very heavily optioned as they were special ordered and not for sale on dealer showrooms. Back then demand exceeded supply and there were waiting lists just to order a car. Those with deep pockets got loaded cars with lots of very nice options. Look for a low mileage car and one that has had the original replaced. You'll get a better IMS shaft and bearing, better RMS and all the attached accessories new and the latest design. Best yet, it's probably bottomed as far as depreciation and for a good example may even go up in years to come.
Dam it........... that burned my retnas'
Try to find a car with the upgraded IMS & RMS if it is near a major service be sure it was done or negotiate the price at 32k you should find a 02-04 with under 50k miles.
I'd buy an '02. It has the MK II upgrades, and it's the cheapest of the MK II cars. They didn't really change much between '02 and '04 (or '05, depending on the model). In your price range you could get a C4S. That's what I'd do!
think about streching your budget and get into a turbo model, you can get them for $35 to $45 and they are bullet proof in terms of reliability.
I love my 2003 C2 and would not get the turbo as I enjoy the light feel of it, but if you are into brute power , don't dissmiss the turbo, they are getting pretty cheap.
If you go for the C4S, then definitely drive the turbo.
Most of us who are happy with our MY Porsches(myself included) will no doubt suggest to you the same year. I do love my 99' coupe for many of the reasons always listed. But, your available $ to spend might get you a much newer 996, or even close to an early model 997. As others have said, buy the newest Porsche you can afford.GL
Thanks all for all the great responses. In general if a car already had the IMS or RMS done is that a good thing? Or if I find a very clean well maintained example with original IMS or RMS, 50k miles and no leaks is that better?
There are a large number of water-cooled flat six Porsche engines in Boxsters and 996-997s with a ball bearing supporting one end of the IMS. Some number of them have failed. How many, who knows, some say 1% some say 20%. There are a smaller sub set of the same engines with a higher quality aftermarket bearing kit from LN Engineering. How many have failed? None that we have heard of.
If I were looking at two 996 that I liked equally and one had the LN bearing I would pick that one. YMMV
You're looking for a magic answer that doesn't exist. It's arguably better if it has had the IMS retrofit done but, just know that the IMS retrofit bearing is only good for about 50K miles. So, if plan on keeping it forever, plan on doing it again. Also, if you find that it needs to have its RMS seal replaced then it would be much better if it was already done -- negotiate its replacement in the sales price or walk away. If it doesn't need a new RMS then...well, it doesn't. And, as is true with any car, "no leaks" is better than "with leaks."
A 50K mile car with original IMS and RMS and no leaks could start leaking at 50,001 miles. What you want is a clean, well maintained car with few or no apparent problems (IMHO). Most important is a PPI. Don't skip the PPI for any reason, even if the car you find is at a dealer.
-Eric
Where are you getting the 50k life on the LN bearing? If the specs on the ceramic bearing is far far better than the OEM version and we have seen the OEM last >100k ( I replaced mine at 100k and it was perfect) should the L&N version last longer?
All bets are off on garage queens! Purgatory for a car.
Eric is just repeating what Jake Raby has suggested. It's all about covering bases around your product, which I can appreciate. The LN bearing is far superior and would most likely never need to be replaced but you'll never hear Jake say that, for good reason.
To provide yet another opinion to the OPs question, buying the newest one you can afford with a documented service history is almost always the best way to go.
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