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YOUR RESEARCHQuestion on header replacement
Leading reported evidence
Install without removing anything else
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The headers removed and installed without removing anything else.
Leading evidence: 'Install without removing anything else' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Install without removing anything else' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I just used WB40 and the bolts came right off, but then I did it an hour after driving so the bolts were still warm.
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Suggestion · Original poster
The hoses look like coolant hoses - I'm assuming that you don't have to drain the coolant to replace the headers - so what are folks doing?
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Suggestion
No coolant has to be drained and the rear most bolts can be accessed with the mentioned socket and extension as long as you are using a decent 6 point socket (I use snap-on but craftsman should work).
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Suggestion
No coolant has to be drained and the rear most bolts can be accessed with the mentioned socket and extension as long as you are using a decent 6 point socket (I use snap-on but craftsman should work).
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Suggestion
If you have access to a tig welder the best way is to tig weld a new nut onto the end of the protruding stud and use a socket to remove the bolt while it is still warm.
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Suggestion
I did not use any swivels, just a long enough extension on the socket to get the ratchet down below the level of the headers and engine and use steady to a moderate snap motion to break them free.
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13 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Generation: 20261027T033922Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I order a set of the Suncoast headers (01 996 Cab) a couple months ago and today took a peek under the car to see how rusted the header bolts were. I sprayed some aerokroil on all the bolts to get a head start - with the weather in the northeast we're at least a 4-6 weeks away from to sand/salt being gone!
As I was spraying the header bolts I noticed that the last bolt (towards the rear of the car) on both sides appeared to be tough to get to with a straight socket from underneath. On both sides there were hoses blocking access. The hoses look like coolant hoses - I'm assuming that you don't have to drain the coolant to replace the headers - so what are folks doing? Is there enough space? or do you use an angle swivel on the socket?
I'm probably not going to do the upgrade till the end of the month, but I want to make sure I can do it myself!
Thanks in advance
I wish that I had been smart enough to ask when I did mine about six months ago. I sprayed them liberally with penetrating oil and I still snapped 3 out of 12 bolts off. There is plenty of room. I used an air ratchet (big mistake). Both ends broke on the driver's side and the one closest to the front broke on the driver's side. I snapped an easyout off trying to remove the broken studs. I called the dealer and asked if this was a common problem...he laughed. They plan on at least three of the bolts snapping off every time they do it.
It is going to cost me $750. to have the dealer helicoil the three that I broke. I was fortunate that I got a good seal without the 3 broken bolts (just the heads snapped off). I'm saving up for the repair. In the meantime, I love the headers....I'm sure you will too.
I must just be lucky because I have put headers on two cars (a boxster and my 996) already and have not needed any lubricant nor have I broken any of the bolts. Seeing as the hardware is bolts not studs going into the heads I don't see how lubricant could do much good anyways. I did not use any swivels, just a long enough extension on the socket to get the ratchet down below the level of the headers and engine and use steady to a moderate snap motion to break them free. They then turned out extremely easy after that. Now I do live in the south with no winter weather so I am not sure if that has any bearing on my results or not. I just did my headers last week so I know it is a do it yourself job, and I put on my PSE mod mufflers yesterday (loving the sound). The headers removed and installed without removing anything else. On the boxster I had to loosen the cat pipes to slide them back in order to have room to get the headers in and out, but the 996 had plenty of room to manuever. My car is a 2000 by the way so it should be the same as your 2001. No coolant has to be drained and the rear most bolts can be accessed with the mentioned socket and extension as long as you are using a decent 6 point socket (I use snap-on but craftsman should work). Just jack up the car high enough to get under it comfortably so you can get good leverage with your arms and you should be fine.
Hope this helps
JIM
If someone was offering to charge me $750 to remove 3 damaged bolts I would try a few other things first. Go down to your local hardware store, machinists supply shop or Snap-On truck and buy some undersized (to the M8 bolt) drill bits with tungsten carbide or diamond coated tips. Don't screw around with cobalt or titanium or anything else that the hardware store employee thinks is fine for drilling steel. Also buy some tapping fluid and two or three screw-outs of varying diameter. Start with the smallest bit drilling out most of the bolt and reversing it out with the screw-out. If that doesn't work move on to the next size larger bit and screw-out. With the tapping fluid and the proper tipped bit you'll drill through the bolts in less than a minute (actually seconds) but it will still take you an hour or two in total. On the plus side you won't need to use a heli-coil and you'll end up saving $725.
Jason, I really appreciate the advice. I actually did exactly what you described already to one of the studs.....I snapped the easy-out off trying to unscrew the stud (I'm calling it a stud because the head of the bolt snapped off, leaving only the stud). I gave up after that and called the dealer. He told me that their solution for my problem was to completely drill the stud out and helicoil it.
I did not think that I would be able to drill through the easyout tip and the stud. Two of the studs protrude almost 1/2 inch out of the head, one protrudes 1/4 inch. Do you have any other suggestions? I'm not afraid to try anything....I would much rather spend the money making the car go faster. I won't try doing the helicoils myself for fear of drilling at an angle & destroying the head. Thanks again for your help.
wlee69....sorry, I didn't mean to steal your thread.
In my shop(machine shop), when we have broken bolts we first try welding to the remaining broken section enough to grab with some vise grips. If you have access to a tig welder the best way is to tig weld a new nut onto the end of the protruding stud and use a socket to remove the bolt while it is still warm. Because the head is aluminum you don't have to worry about welding the stud to the head. I would try that before consulting the dealer, at least on the ones without the broken easy out.
JIM
Thanks for the info guys - I'll be tackling the project in the next month or so. I've got GHL mufflers and I'm interested to hear what they will sounds like after the Suncoast headers get installed!!!
It depends on where (quality-wise) you bought the easy out from but with a tungsten carbide or diamond coated bit and some tapping/cutting fluid you should have no problem drilling the center (through the easyout) and trying with another slightly larger easyout. (BTDT).
Do you know of anyone that has a canisters of MAPP and Oxygen gas? You can heat what remains of the bolt red glowing hot and then just turn with some vice grips (or if there is enough of the bolt left you could cut some threads and try to double-nut the bolt out.) and it should spin out without too much trouble. Small tanks of MAPP sell for ~$6USD and Oxygen ~$9 but they require a mixing valve and tubes, etc. that cost ~$50.
