Trouble re-inserting the ignition key cylinder

I was having trouble with my ignition key. It was very stiff when I tried to turn it. And when I removed the key it didn't give that click when it was removed. And the chime would sound when the door was opened indicating that the key was still in the lock (it wasn't). So I followed the instructions on the Pelican website ( http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ering_Lock.htm ) and pushed the paper clip into the ignition cylinder and removed the lock cylinder. But then I tried to reinsert it and it wouldn't go back in. During my struggles I accidentally let the paperclip come out but I immediately pushed it back in. No luck as the various pins on the end of the cylinder wouldn't line up with the holes inside. When I eventually removed the paperclip I was able to spin the center pin so theoretically all should have lined up. But it still wouldn't go back in. Any advice from someone who has done this before?

Have you contacted Pelican parts about their tech chart on this matter. Surely you can't be the first person to have made this mistake.

The problem is not with the lock cylinder but with the ignition switch itself. There are good instructions on renntech with pictures on how to replace that ... You don't need to remove lock cylinder .. Hopefully someone else can provide advice on getting lock cylinder back in ..might also want to look/ask on renntech

+1 on Targa996's response. Replacing the switch module is relatively easy and the part's cheap ($12 or so online). If that allows you to replace the cylinder and for things to work smoothly, great. The switch module is a common failure mechanism. The other failure mechanism is that the ignition lock itself fails. This is what happened in my car. This is a much more involved repair that I chose not to tackle myself. The replacement part is much more expensive ($200+). The replacement is an upgrade to the original, and I understand it pretty much eliminates the risk of this failure mode. Good luck.

Finally got the cylinder back in. I wasn't sure if the paper clip had to be left in or taken out. Turns out that it had to be removed in order for the key to turn and the center and the other pins lined up. After a good sleep I tried it again and in slipped right back in. Guess I was too tired last night. The reason I wanted to take the lock cylinder out was to switch it with the one in my wife's car (also a 2000 996 Cabrio) to see if it was an issue with the lock cylinder or something deeper inside the lock mechanism. I felt it was safer to try to remove and then reinstall my own first before removing the second (and having my wife yell at me if it didn't work). Anyway, now I feel more comfortable doing the switch to test the cylinder. Obviously if the sticky key turn goes over to her car then it is in the cylinder. If not, then more digging inside mine. I'm not sure how the small electrical component at the back of the mechanism could make it hard to insert the key and then turn on the car. Seems more like a mechanical issue.

I had exactly that problem ... Trust me .., takes just over an hour to follow the instructions on renntech and part is available from napa auto for $11 or so -or order from pelican plus shipping if that is more convienient ... If you search the threads here for "ignition switch" you will find others describe the exact symptoms ..

You need to change the electrical part. In the Pelican DIY it is in Pic #1. With the Agua arrow pointing to one of the set screws that hold it in. That is the part that is most common cause of the failure that you describe. Part 4A0905849B in NAPA stores. Used on Audi A8 and VWs from 1997 - 2003.

I changed the electrical part 4A0905849B) today using the method described in the Renntech article ( http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...with-pictures/ ) No luck. The key still is very stiff to turn and I can hardly get it to position #1, just like before. So what's next? Replace the entire ignition mechanism? Or could it still be the key cylinder that is failing?

I've not heard of the lock cylinder itself going. But many (including me) have had the ignition locking mechanism fail. That's my $0.02. Good luck.

So you had to replace the entire mechanism (part # 996-347-017-07-M100)? Is it a DIY job? Any links with photos of the replacement procedure?

Medent -- that's the piece. There is a DIY procedure described on Renntech.org, but I decided to have the dealer do it--there's a limit to finicky that this repair appeared to exceed. In my case the key became increasingly hard to remove, and then one day the key became impossible to turn. Fortunately the car was in my garage with the wheels pointed straight forward, which made for an easy load onto the flatbed to be hauled to the shop.