considering engine mounts. DIY

For you guys that have changed the engine mounts. What difference do you feel in the running of the car. Since putting an added weight of about 60lbs on the car from the hard top for the winter, mine feels every bump in the road mainly at the back end. Other than that the car runs impeccably. Would changing the mounts make any difference to that part? I have in mind Corseco OEM supplier from Pelican Parts. I don't track the car so would prefer a semi hard type as the originals on the car now. Tell me which type and make you advice and why. Thanks. ^ 67000 miles on the clock. 99 Cab C2.

Bought the pelican parts ... Installed at 75k... Super worth it!

I ordered mine from Pelican, and I am waiting on them to be delivered. Cabin vibration, a low hanging tail pipe and better shifting expected when they are replaced.

Hurdi, I just replaced mine yesterday. Purchased from Pelican as the OEM mount as I don't track my cars either. For you this would be a super easy DIY. Seems as if everything is better, clutch, shifting, handling, and power.

More power?

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Yes. Completely unexpected result. I do however seem to remember reading that the position of the engine affects engine timing, how that would work is totally beyond me. But, the difference is significantly noticeable. The car zips to redline and I am glad I was paying attention before I hit the rev limiter. Just to make sure it wasn't a placebo affect I had my son drive it solo last night, he has driven it many times before, and when he came back he asked me what I did because it was like a different car. I told him motor mounts and his response was "no way". Yes, way.

I mostly notice the difference in the shifting performance of the car. Not much difference in ride quality or vibration for me.

I changed mine myself earlier this year, and can't believe how much smoother the motor is, how much shifting has improved, and how much better the overall driving experience is. DO IT!

Well then, may have to do this before winter storage! Coincidentally one of the fellow 996 owner was asking me this at our Sat GTG a couple of days ago, he mentioned the motor vibration is gone and shift quality has improved. Not knowing what the car felt when it was spanking new, I have nothing to compare with. There are just two engine mounts, correct? Will probably change out one of the noisy idler pulley/bearing at the same time, noticed it earlier this year when doing the water pump and thermostat, might as well get it all done.

I think I'm beginning to see a "droopy" tail pipe on one side. I think I need to change my motor mounts too...

Yes, there are only two engine mounts. Its super easy as long as you have a low profile hydraulic jack and jack stands. You need to support the engine with the jack while you take out the old mounts. The car needs to be up on stands (or something) at the same time. Also need a deep well socket (not sure - may be 18mm). Oh and it was a great improvement for my car. I didnt notice an increase in power but the decrease in cabin vibrations was pronounced. It really changed the driving experience. Much smoother feeling now that the interior is not shaking.

This project, replacing your engine mounts, is extremely popular and does not require any special mechanical knowledge/experience. Very straightforward. We tend to put many miles on the engine mounts over time and not notice the declining performance or engine sagging but when the swap is made, suddenly shifts are crisper and throttle response is more immediate - it's a very noticeable difference. For product information, click here . For removal and install instructions, refer to: 911 Carrera Engine Mount Replacement Let us know what questions you have at anytime! Mark/Pelican Parts

I did my motor mounts a few months ago, ran into a couple problems that were my fault (broken bolt and coolant line), you can see my story and some pics here: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...bly-wrong.html Didn't notice a huge change after doing it, but my engine was running and shifting pretty smoothly to begin with. Should be a nice easy DIY.

After reading this thread, I had to order some mounts. It seems like cheap insurance against future problems. (Closing in on 100k miles) Damn this site. every time i come here, i end up spending money.

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hahaha. This DIY gets into the blood for sure. After reading the thread about 'motor mounts DIY that went horribly wrong', I don't know if it's a good idea or not. Then again all the pointers are there to avoid similar mistakes. Breaking bolts off and snapping connectors. Things to be avoided. So I am still 'going for it' and ordering from Pelican parts. OK I just ordered (or my wife did for me) 2 engine mounts plus an air filter from Pelican Parts $206. I also needed a coil mounting screw $1-75 and even though the air filter and engine mounts qualified for free shipping, the coil mounting screw DID NOT and Pelican parts were adding on $13 for a 1-75 screw. I told them to stick the screw where the monkey sticks his nuts. UP THEIR ***. That has pissed me off. UNLESS PELICAN PARTS READS THIS AND STICKS A COIL MOUNTING SCREW IN THERE FOR FREE.

You may want to replace the backup light switch while you are down there (if it hasn't been done). Mine went bad at 70k miles and if I recall it costs $10 or so.

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Actually replaced mine when it went bad on me at about 60000 miles. (Discovered during the annual test. Thanks anyway if that post was directed to me. That was the easiest DIY I have done yet.

Just replaced mine a few ago. Bought the stock mounts from Pelican. I did not notice smoother shifts and slightly less cabin vibration. The DIY is very straight forward. I think it took me just as long to get the car on jack stands than it did to replace the mounts. Overall for $200 I think it is worth it. I considered the semi solid mounts but I have the H&R lowering springs which already makes the ride a bit stiff. I don't track my car so I stuck with the stock mounts and I am happy so far. It was a subtle change but noticeable.

OK I have everything ready for the motor mounts arriving in a couple of days. I Used PB Blaster to break the hold on the bottom nuts using a large torsion bar and half inch long reach wrench with extension. Then I removed the air pump no problem or enough to crack open last bolt. Then cracked open the other 3 bolts which hold the top of the mounts. Then took the strain off the engine letting the car rest on two rear stands. So the only thinbgs I am waiting for now are the engine mounts coming from Pelican Parts along with an air filter. OMG is it dirty in that engine compartment.

^^^ Do you have an air compressor?^^^ I just found out I am close to Pelican. Ordered them yesterday, got my new mounts today. Pelican is my new favorite company

Just make sure to Torque them to spec when you put them back in Hurdi, other than that it looks like you've got everything prepped. DS

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Invius,,,,,Would you know the exact torque specs for top and underneath bolts? rglbegl:- don't have a compressor. Would be handy to blow away some of that dust when I have things all sealed up again. I have full scuba tanks with 3500PSI in them I could use if needed.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the lower bolts were 63 ft-lbs. Be careful torquing down the upper bolts, they're only 20 or 25 ft-lbs. There's a nice DIY if you google it.

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63 ft. lbs. for the lower nut - mount to engine carrier - is correct - double checked in the Bentley manual. I believe I used 19 ft. lbs. for the upper bolts but don't know for sure where I came up with that.

[QUOTE=Hurdigurdiman;10832663]Invius,,,,,Would you know the exact torque specs for top and underneath bolts? Hurdi, My notes were 63ft./lb for the bottom bolt, and 20 ft./lb for the two top bolts in the engine compartment. Cheers, DS

Way to go Hurdi ! Good luck. She looks like she is in good hands.

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http://www.georgeco.org/?p=934 Hurdi - if you can hit this link it's a clean DIY on the mounts. Note the photo of old and new mounts compared - this is exactly how mine looked. I had her out multiple times today (multiple trips to the auto parts store for the Ford - different story) and I continue to notice huge gains, was on the twisty country roads today and am very impressed with the improvement in handling - never would have guessed. I can't wait to hear what you think after you ride with new mounts. I know we'll get a direct and no b.s. opinion - and that's a good thing.

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Even a cheap compressor will work. (Go get one) Get an air nozzle, and at low pressure spray a squirt bottle in front of the air. mildly soapy water with a little air pressure gets in all the hard to reach places. Then just rinse with soft water and it leaves no water spots. From there you can do the rest by hand. Little armor-all here, some wax on the painted parts, etc etc

Good work/info going on in this thread! Mark/Pelican parts

OK I did the mounts in about an hour and a half and here is the difference new and old. Plus I cleaned the engine bay up some as it was filthy. I don't know if I feel a positive difference as the car always ran spot on anyway. It was something which I had to do as PM. PS:- BTW the car IS defo running smoother, grips the road on bends tighter and my wife says its running like a new car. I have had it out again and find that to be true.

Great work Hurdi, you are the man ! I was going to tackle this myself today, but it ended up raining (I have no garage). Wimped out and took my pelican parts to a local garage and they got it done for me, but charged me 2 hours. Cost me $176.00 but its done. My stretch was similar to yours. I have less passenger seat shake now for sure and shifting is better. Well worth it.

If you track the car you should have used wevo semi solid mounts. They make idle much stable and improve up shifting a lot.

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I do not or do I ever intend to track my car. That would be asking for a disaster at aged 72 years. AM I THE OLDEST 996 DRIVER ON THIS BOARD? I AM MORE THAN LIKELY THE OLDEST DIY MAN FOR SURE. I NEVER IN THE PAST HAD ENOUGH MONEY TO BUY A NEW CAR IN MY LIFE. ALWAYS OLD BANGERS THAT I HAD TO FIX UP MYSELF. I GUESS I CAN'T GET THE DIY WORK OUT OF MY BLOOD. THIS IS SIMPLY THE BEST CAR I HAVE EVER OWNED OUTRIGHT. A CAR I ONE DAY DREAMED OF OWNING. THE FIRST 911 CAME OUT WHEN I WAS AGED 22YEARS. AFTER 50 YEARS MY DREAM HAS COME TRUE. LIFE IS GOOD.

Just finished my mounts. Mine looked even worse than the ones I have seen posted here. Rubber was toast. Car is still on the ramps out back. Gonna take it out for a drive in a minute.

I don't track, and if I did I don' t think the engine mounts will be my limiting factor.. More likely my raw lack of skill.

Small difference. Shifts are just a hair smoother. Well worth the money and time spent

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Before changing the mounts, I would get a slight drift when hard cornering on the apex. Since replacing the mounts I have hammered it just before the apex right into and out of the bend and find no drift at all. That to me says the mounts have equalized the center of gravity and now the car really DOES stick like glue during through and out of the corner. The Amish lanes are wonderful to drive through.