Anybody got their issues with the new K&N filter resolved ?

I didn't. Worked a bit with their customer service department this week. Tried a couple of things. Still the same issues. I fear that this is a product which was released to the consumer without approriate R&D and testing. This morning I went back to stock airbox. What a relief ! We'll see now whether the MAF still works OK under the normal set-up or whether it has been ruined. I'll be contacting K&N for a refund (+potentilly the cost of a new MAF) next week, once I know whtehr my MAF has been ruined in the process. If anybody else is in a similar situation, please contact me.

Sorry, never had any issues. I added 2 additional mounts to mine when I installed it and no rubbing or CEL issues.

I just installed the CAI and after 30 miles received CEL. The codes were P1128 & P1130. Will be calling K&N on Monday. Anybody know what the CEL means?

Hi Yves, it appears that I have finally gotten mine resolved! For the full story on what got me to this point, check out my last post on my thread here. I hope it stays this way because so far I'm very happy with the performance now!

installed mine today. it appears that i installed the maf backwards; had two stalls at idle ( never happened before ), low idle, and finally cel light. i then disconnected the battery positive, reversed position of the maf, did some other things for about 1/2 hour, reconnected battery, and voila! no more cel! put about 5-10miles so far, will be doing the same tonight; the real test will be tomorrow---have a 50+ mile trip planned. hope this helps.

How do you check if the MAF is on backwards? I saw the opening of the MAF w/wire and assumed this is the part that needs to be facing the filter where the air passes thru? Correct

the opening needs to face the filter

There is a really easy to tell if youhave the MAF backwards. If you did not have to turn the boot around on the MAF harness to get it to fit correctly, you have it in backwards.

exactly 02, i ended up with the boot backwards ( so to speak ). btw- did my 100 mile trip today, no cel, no stalls, stumbles, or anything else. and got a few compliments on the sound of the car as i pulled into the nnjr/pca picnic parking lot/ concours. i have the ghl mufflers on the car with rest the rest of the exhaust being stock.

What is the purpose to disconnecting the neg. battery terminal? How is this suppose to solve a CEL? I was told to do this after my CEL came on after 30 mile with new CAI. Thanks guys!

iot clears the fault memory and the adaptaion numbers it will tak while but they will reach their adaptaion treshold again and throw a light

Well 150 or so miles later and CEL again. Same two codes. I believe it is the new K&N CAI. Thinking about returning the product. Not sure what else to do, hate to see the CEL, even if the cars runs ok with it on and no major damage.

Well, I've got the CEL and the car runs like crap. Things built up with ABS + PSM off in my first week after install. Now I've got the CEL. I assume it's because my MAF is blown (oil on the K&N filter). A new MAF is on its way. As stated above, I pulled the K&N on Saturday. Back to normal now. Just hope it didn't create any damage to the engine. Am contacting K&N tomorrow and am going to demand refund + covering for the MAF. I strongly believe this product was launched too early and should be recalled. If anybody else wants to complain together with me, feel free to contact me.

Has anyone tried to reinstall the stock airbox before throwing away the MAF?

Why don't you look at the CEL codes and see what they are and also take a reading of the O2 sensors and MAF readings. Any good scanner will tell you what the engine was doing at the exact time the CEL was generated. If it is simply being caused by a lean condition, take a look at the LTFT. These readings should become more and more positive as you continue to drive, and should eventualy adjust for the increased air to the engine. You should also take a reading of the MAF when at WOT, near redline as well as at idle. Everytime you reset the DME, you are going to zero out the LTFT values and start all over again.

the fault comes (usually) from a maf sensor that is coated in oil from the k/n filter

How do you know when the MAF is blown? What truely indicates this?

CEL ON FAULTS FOR O2 ADAPTATION BOTH BANKS, AND FUEL TRIM INDCIATING RICH MIXTURE. they go bad a lot especially the early cars,

They sure do. Especially if you suck oil into them

will the connection for the transistor or resistor (not sure what it is called) be broken?

no

The resistor on the back of the MAF is the auxiliary temperature sensor.

INTAKE TEMPERATURE SENSOR

Bosch also call it the auxiliary temperature sensor in their spec sheets.

touche' with a pst2/piwis that sensor is readable as the intake air temp sensor

Well guys back to stock and got another P1130 CEL. What now? Dealer?

Maf sensor .... how it works The electronics heats up a calibrated resistor or series of resistors and actually calculates heat loss compared to ambient, based on the mass flow ( Pressure, temperature compensated ) of air passing by the resistor. More mass flow, more heat carried away. Actually does this indirectly by measuring the current though the resistor which is directly related to resistor temp. and inversly relative to actual resistance at a given temp. So when the resistor gets covered with oil it is effectivly insulated from passing air and gives an eronious value. Not sure why a good cleaning shouldn't fix any problems. Only thing I can think of the comonents are very fragile and can be easily be damaged due to rough handling re:cleaning.

How will the dealer determine what is wrong based on the P1130 code? Thanks!

Can I ask why we would consider a K&N in the first place? Has anyone done dyno runs to verify the claims? I'm not trying to be a smart a%$, but the last time I dynoed my engine I tried a K&N and there was no increase in torque or HP...I did use one on a heavily modded 3.2 Carrera engine (cams,exhaust, and 10.3:1 Mahle pistons) and we gained 2.5 HP....The UOA's that i do on this engine show higher wear than with a paper filter...not knocking it, but the proof is in the pudding as far as I'm concerned.

THEY WILL LOCK AT THE FR AND TR NUMBERS (OR THE FR AND RKATS ON NEWER CARS) AND DETERMINE WHY THE FAULT IS BEING THROWN, IF ITS RUNNING RICH OR RUNNIGN LEAN. RICH GENERALY IS A FAULTY MAF SENSOR, BUT COULD BE FUEL PRESSURE PROBLEMS OR OTHER THINGS AS WELL. lEAN MIXTURE INDICATES A VACUM LEAK, AN EXHAUST LEAK OR ON RARE OCCASIONS A FAULTY MAF SENSOR WITHOUT LOOKING AT THE ADAPTAION NUMBERS YOU CANNOT ACURTALY DIAGNOSE THE REASON FOR THE CEL