DIY front strut replacement ?'s

1999 C2 Cab. 72,000 miles As indicated I'm replacing the front shocks myself. Using Bilstein B6 performance strut assembly. Going to replace the following for good measure: shock mount (probably not necessary, but only $25 each) bearing & bearing plate drop links bump stop bellows anything else anyone suggest? ...and of course have a good look around at the bushings and ball joints, hoping all that is ok. So a few questions; Being a 1999 with 72,000 miles should I assume any particular bushing or joint is bad due to time/miles, in other words which usually go bad, and should i just replace regardless if visual/pry bar inspection looks good? If so I'll order those parts. Can I get the strut assembly out by just loosening the lower control arm so it swings lower? Some say this will stress the steering rack connection to much, so you should disconnect the bolts of the subframe and cross members to allow the rack to drop down a little. It's in the first 30 seconds of a Youtube video by Van Svenson entitled "Changing struts/shocks on a Porsche Boxster." Is this necessary? The pelican parts DIY does not mention doing this. Assuming boxster is same as 996. Most people say compressing the springs as much as possible allowing the strut to be compressed more eliminates this step. Just trying to anticipate any curve *****.

Getting the drop link out of the hub can be a pain if it's corroded, I had to take the whole thing off and get it on the bench and use heat and a hammer to get it out !! I think I just removed the pickle fork control arm unbolted the track rod then undid the top mount and drop link then just dropped it down and angled out may be handy to compress spring aswel , good luck

Personally, I loosened the diagonal lower control arm, and its associated bracket (it's held to the frame with a plate, 3 bolts), brake calliper and if you have light levelling, remember to remove it from the control arm (its plastic and over extending would break it I feared). Did not remove tie rod at all.

I removed the control arm, drop link, and tie rod from the hub, and dropped it enough to get it out.

I have the standard suspension, not the sport on my '99' 996. I removed the entire wheel carrier . Marked the upper mounts location with sharpie, . removed diagonal brace, drop link, tie rod then lower control arm, left attached at eccentric bolt. Also removed and hung caliper. I purchased the ball joint removal tool from Harbor freight. Great tool, stay away from those pickel forks if you want to reuse your components. Removed strut from carrier on bench. Compressed spring then rebuilt. I think those coilovers are short and can be removed while in car Tape your wheel arch to protect. All this will allow checking of bushings and ball joints too. ​

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+1. on my 99 996 and 99 Boxster the flexible brake line attaches to the hard line on the hub so the travel of hub is limited but you can still maneuver just enough to get the shock body out. I did not drop the subframe on either car

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This is what I was hoping to hear and will try first. Parts should arrive by weekend.

So it seems at a bare minimum; remove or loosen diagonal lower control arm, loosen the coffin lower control arm, and remove drop link. Then see if there's enough play to remove. If not or if you're concerned about over stressing the steering rack, then remove tie rod. This all seems necessary if you don't compress the spring and the strut is at full length. I just saw a video whereas you use a floor jack to lift the wheel carrier up to ride height, remove the top strut lock bolt, then lower the wheel carrier slowly and the entire strut assembly lowers minus the mounting plate which stay attached because the three bolts where never removed. This allows you to remove the spring and then compress the shock piston all the way down (cause the spring is removed) and it is then easily removed. Install is reverse, however, a little more difficult as you have to assemble the top half of the strut components while on the car. This is shown in youtube video "Porsche 997/996 Eibach springs installation w/o spring compressors, min work". Of course he installs the new assembly pre assembled and gets it to fit.

I hate that there's multiple English names for the same part. I had to remove the Lenker (diagonal control arm) the Querlenker (coffin/wishbone/control arm) the drop link, and the tie rod. I disconnected the speed sensor and (I think) the brake pad sensor. Then I dropped the hub/wheel carrier and the assembled strut could be removed. The drop link is what keeps the strut attached to the hub. It's not just English that Porsche has the same (or multiple) names for parts. The Porsche name for the windage tray, the de-aerators and the air-oil separator are: English: Oil Separator German: �labscheider Ich brauche einen �labscheider. Welcher?

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Kind of like street names, some have 3 or 4. Of the way you did it, I would prefer not to have to pop the tie rod cause i don't have a separator for the ball joint, but they are cheap if I do. Tex.....You didn't have to remove brake calipers? Just curious.

Some recommend replacing the caliper mounting bolts any time they have been removed. I didn't, but you may wish to.

removing the brake calipers doesn't do you any good other than reducing the weight of the system. the brake soft line from the chassis is connected to the hard line on the hub at an attachment bracket on the hub/wheel carrier, so the caliper is irrelevant. removing the wheel carrier from the car altogether means opening the brake fluid hydraulic system

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I wonder which part you are referring to as the "shock mount." I think I need to replace the front "strut mounts" on my car (2004 C4S), which are the plates at the top of the shock that mount to the body with 3 nuts. But they are $250ea at suncoast, so I'm wondering which part costs $25. Also, a question to the group at large: For the front strut job the Bentley manual says, "Use all new fasteners." But I see lots of folks here not mentioning anything about this. Any advice on this front? They seem pretty cheap but suncoast does not list the various nuts as part numbers so I'm working through their tech support (kind of a pain). And what about something like the strut mount bolt that just clamps the shock into the wheel carrier? I wonder what is the benefit of replacing that. To avoid seized bolts later?

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You might get by without removing the tie rod, but if I remember correctly I had to. I removed the caliper on the driver's side and then realized I didn't need to. I didn't remove it on the passenger side.

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If you go to Autoatlanta.com they have exploded views of your suspension. They list the mounts in a few flavors. Ranging from $28.00 to $450.00 They list bolts as well

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The Porsche PET has it as well. https://www.porsche.com/all/media/pd...SA_KATALOG.pdf

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The "strut mount bolt" is one of the most difficult parts to remove. If it's stuck, it's truly a b*tch to get loose. It literally took me close to a week to remove one of mine (not a week straight, but soaking, heating turning, banging with various drifts/hammers etc.). The trick is not to damage the carrier (Cast Aluminum), so take your time and use your head, not too much heat etc. Also, you should have mentioned that it's a C4S sooner. You'll need to pull the carriers off the axles in order for the strut to clear the fender...

in my view, shock mount = upper strut mount. Aftermarket price is around $25-30 each. I rarely buy anything with the PORSCHE label on it due to the PORSCHE tax that comes with it. dcsjc - I buy almost everything through Pelican Parts.com. the "strut mount bolt" is just the upper end of the sway bar link which does dual duty to clamp the wheel carrier around the strut body. it was easy for me. the hard one was the ball joint attaching wheel carrier to wishbone/lower control arm. no room for a socket or ratcheting wrench, and even when the nut is off, the ball joint is practically cemented into the wheel carrier. took heat and a BFH to get it out.

"in my view, shock mount = upper strut mount. Aftermarket price is around $25-30 each." ^^ Not for the C4/C4S/Turbo... Almost $500 for the pair... I went with Tarrett Adjustable mono-***** as the stock compliant rubber mounts are roughly the same price (in some cases more expensive than the Tarrett's).

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www.autohausaz.com is where i buy most parts. They have the Lemfoerder brand shock mount for $26.47. Over $100 is Porsche tax extraordinaire.

You guys nailed it: the upper shock mount for my C4S seems to be way more expensive than the C2. I learn something every day...

no doubt! I didn't realize there was a difference between the models. that price is crazy for essentially the same part. I would have gone with aftermarket monoballs also for that money. so all of my comments above do not apply to C4/S/turbo

So, I just did this today. Wrote up a very detailed account and as I was about to send it, it timed out and I lost the entire post. So, a quick summary will have to do for those interested. I'll hit the broad stokes, and if anyone needs the particulars such as torque specs or tools or a few secret tips etc., they can PM me or post questions. It's well covered in forums and youtube the basics: undue the sensor & the brake line holder which are both connected to the wheel carrier (WC) with 10mm bolts. Remove brake caliper. Remove the (3) 13mm nuts to the mount. Remove 18mm bolt that releases the strut & upper drop link. These are all musts. What I found out to be not necessary is loosening either of the lower control arms at the bushing side to help lower the WC further. This could be due to my control arm bushings being 20 years old and more flexible. Also removing the steering arm ball joint, it will not stress the steering rack when you lower the WC as far as necessary to get the strut out under the fender if you leave it attached. With only the 2 control arms and the steering arm connected to the WC it was very easy to push the WC down and clear the fender with the fully assembled strut. I did not need a spring compressor to remove the spring from the old strut or install the spring to the new one. I replaced most of the components on the strut. Bump stop, bellow, bearing, mount, only reused the 2 metal concave washers and spring of course. All the bushings and ball joints passed visual inspection and wiggle tests except the drop link which I replaced. I found this to be extremely easy and cheap. And no need for alignment I think. Only thing messed with that would affect it was the 3 top mount bolts, but I marked them carefully and replaced exactly. $325 for all the parts. Bilstein B6 HD strut, top strut mount, bearing, bellow, bump stop and drop link. My indy quoted me $2,200 for both sides, so $1,100 a side. So i consider $800 saved. $1,600 saved when I do the other side. 1999 C2 Cab with 72,000 miles and what I believe is original stock suspension. Doing the right side next week. Probably take 90 minutes now that I've done it. Then rears in the near future.

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I hate when that happens! Normally when I'm working on a long post, I use cut and paste to my advantage. I've lost everything still, but I can paste it back into the browser and re-upload my photos. I usually get ticked off, save my local copy, and try to re-post it in the next day or two. Now I'm used to almost always copying all my posts just before hitting or inserting photos. I've had my photos wipe out my posts as well!

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Nice write up. C4 needs to address the drive shaft and different strut mounts...

Hi. I have a question. Do you think this work? I just thought if I use this method maybe I don't have to take anything off from wheel carrier. Please watch this youtube. You Tube My idea is take upper mount after this so the shock should able to remove upward using the hole there is no spring so. What do you think?

This will definitely work. There is very little preload on the strut spring, so it’s pretty simple. That said, I really didn’t have any issues with the wheel carrier on mine.

I will do this this week.

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i used this method as well. no need to remove caliper, control arm etc. reassembly is not too bad just getting everything lined backup etc. I only loosened the inner coffin arm carrier bolt to allow more downward movement of the hub assembly. i was surprised at how easily the struct came out of the carrier. all in the fronts are easier than rears, i had trouble getting the bottom bolts lined up.

Yes. You have more troubles if you remove more parts. You will need more new parts if you remove more parts.

OK. I did passenger side today without any trouble. It was very easy but Driver side will be different. Driver side doesn't go down like Passenger side so I have lose the control arm. I'll try tomorrow.

I did both sides with this method. Super easy.

I just finished both sides. Driver side was a bit harder but finished the job without no Brake Caliper remove, No control bolt lose. Nothing removed from wheel carrier except warning lines. I can say easy but you need some power and think a little bit when you replace the coils. If you get hard time replacing new strut, you can compress strut using floor jack and put a thick rubber on top of the strut just make sure don't make scratches. The strut will goes down when you jack up wheel carrier. You just release the floor jack and place the top of the strut in the top mount before it go back to normal length. That's it. Have a nice day.