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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHwaterpump, can you tell if it's original?
Leading reported evidence
Replace pump and 'low temp thermo' as a diy project
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I changed the pump and 'low temp thermo' as a DIY project.
Leading evidence: 'Replace pump and 'low temp thermo' as a diy project' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'best bet' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean bolts' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Examine the coolant passages for plastic debris.I am suspicious of most used replacements.
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Suggestion
If you are careful you can clean the bolts with a mild cleaner that won't remove paint -- and no scrubbing!
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Suggestion · Original poster
Is there a way to tell if a waterpump has been replaced previously without removing it?
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Suggestion
If the gasket is intact, the water pump may be original, or the gasket was reused, or the engine was rebuilt at some point (so the entire gasket was used instead of just the water pump gasket).
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7 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Generation: 20261026T225432Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Is there a way to tell if a waterpump has been replaced previously without removing it? I'm trying to figure out if the previous owner ever replaced the waterpump.
In some cases when an engine is assembled and bolts are torqued down the worker marks the bolts with a dab of paint.
If you are careful you can clean the bolts with a mild cleaner that won't remove paint -- and no scrubbing! -- and see if you can spot the paint dabs and look for signs of any damage to these from being wrenched on.
Trouble is you can't assume the thing was replaced if the bolts are free of any paint dab as this may not have been done to the water pump bolts.
However, with a close inspection of the bolt heads you perhaps can spot signs a wrench was used to remove the bolt. This can fail if the mechanic used new bolts. While they are not called for IIRC sometimes new bolts are used.
You can also look at the hose clamps to see if they've been disturbed.
Or without clear proof the water pump was done and when it was done you can just assume it was not done and if you feel a new water pump is a must have pre-requisite to your buying the car adjust your offer price by the cost of a new water pump.
You can also check the gasket behind the water pump as it goes towards the middle of the engine. The gasket is put on as one piece from the factory. To replace the gasket and the water pump you must snip the metal gasket where it goes behind a flange. The snipped gasket will be visible, though difficult to see in between the water pump and the other flange. Unless they reused the old gasket!?
^ This is probably the best bet. If the gasket is snipped, you definitely know the pump was replaced.
If the gasket is intact, the water pump may be original, or the gasket was reused, or the engine was rebuilt at some point (so the entire gasket was used instead of just the water pump gasket).
The water pump is inexpensive enough that I'd consider it part of the PM list if the age of the existing pump is unknown...
Or you could leave well alone until you see the first sign of water leakage on the garage floor. Like an eggcup full. OR water loss from the water res tank. Mine started to weep around 72000 miles at the pump bearing which showed on the garage floor. I changed the pump and 'low temp thermo' as a DIY project. It set things right first attempt I am pleased to say. If you do the DIY, take note that 2 of the 7 screws holding the pump are longer than the others, so mark or remember where they came from. I did not use any additive on the gasket. Not much force is needed to tighten or release the bolts. Just a strongish twist and thats about it. Very tricky little DIY but dooable.
This, they nearly always start to weep prior to failure.
Personally my policy is that if there isn't a receipt, it didn't happen. Because if there's no paperwork you are really just guessing.
Two other issues to look for when replacing a water pump:
1. When you remove the pump ,examine the 'dish' in the cranckcase half that receives the impeller.If part of the dish is highly polished and noticeably different Ra to the adjacent internal part of the pump recess -that indicates the plastic(hopefully not metal!)blades were grinding against the aluminum housing because the bearing was severely worn. Time for more careful inspection for damage and debris ?
2.If the blades disintegrated the debris may cause blockages in the c/h..... The quick and dirty inspection is to remove the coolant/oilheat-exchanger(a.k.a. oil cooler). Examine the coolant passages for plastic debris.I am suspicious of most used replacements. How do you know they are not similarly contaminated?Then there is the issue of removing debris from inside the coolant passages elsewhere....
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