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YOUR RESEARCHtorque specs for wheels - 99 996's
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Tighten they
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As the lug nuts are tightened, they adjust the wheel's position relative to the hub, thus centering the wheel.
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ever since the 6Cup cars came out AFAIK, saves the bolt from flexure/fatigue under heavy loading...I've always used 118, long time with no issue
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Suggestion
As the lug nuts are tightened, they adjust the wheel's position relative to the hub, thus centering the wheel.
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Suggestion
I've not heard of change....where did this info come from?
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Suggestion
They should also be torquing the lugs to spec using correct equipment - if they're just rattle-gunning the lug bolts on rather than using a torque wrench, run away from that shop.
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I have found them during search from 80 all the way to 100....I have mine set up at 90...now.
The shop I took it to get the brake job done had them super tight....could this cause some vibration at speeds 50mph+?
I am going through this dilema as we speak with my new wheels. The correct spec is 96 pounds. The over tightened bolts will not cause a vibration problem, however the lugs should be tightened and torqued in a cross star patern. Do you have aftermarket wheels on the car? Are they completely hub centered? If the answers are NO and YES, check and see that they have not knocked off a weight on a wheel and loosen and retorque the lugs in the cross star and see if there is a difference. eric
PS If they are not hub centered that could be a big problem. I assume these are the same wheels you had on the car before? What about the tires?
I will torque them down a little more.....I always do the cross star patern...yes I have Techarts right now...not sure if they are completely hub centered...or what that means exactly...
I just recently balanced ALL wheels/tires so that is not the issue...
I was going to explain hub centering but I went out and found this......
Hub-Centricity vs. Lug-Centricity
Another important consideration in the proper selection of custom wheels is the concept of hub-centricity. This refers to a situation where the center bore hole of the wheel exactly matches the vehicle's hub diameter. In other words, if the vehicle's hub diameter is 56mm (e.g., Acura Integra), the wheel's center bore hole should be designed to match it perfectly.
Hub-Centricity
When automobile manufacturers design a vehicle, they utilize hub-centric wheels so that:
The wheels are positioned very precisely on the car.
The possibility of shifting while being mounted is minimized.
Lug-Centricity
The alternative to a hub-centric wheel is known as lug-centric.
The wheels are located solely by the lug nuts rather than the wheel hub.
As the lug nuts are tightened, they adjust the wheel's position relative to the hub, thus centering the wheel.
Properly torqued, the lug nuts continue to keep the wheel centered as the vehicle is driven.
Lug-centric wheels require extra care in mounting on a vehicle. When using shouldered nuts instead of tapered nuts, take extra care to properly locate the wheel. Never use air tools to install high performance wheels! Always use a torque wrench and follow accepted tightening procedures.
.......at,
http://www.yokohamatire.com/utwheels.asp
and you can do a google on the subject and see drawings. This is very important and some folks overlook the details involved.
However it sounds like you have factory wheels so hub centering is most likely not the problem and the link also talks about torquing of wheels. Maybe this is your problem. Maybe you have wheels that although just balanced a mistake was made and now must be rebalanced??
Were there any other changes made to the car at the same time?
Correct torque is 130Nm (or about 96lb-ft...but I prefer to work in metric). Get yourself a good torque wrench. I'm a big fan of the 666 series from Beta Utensili (
www.procarestores.com)
. In fact, I like most of their tools (everything but screwdrivers - for which I prefer either Wiha or Felo - and wrenches - for which I prefer the no longer in production Stahlwille Type 13...oh and often for pliers I prefer Knipex). If you think you might be buying a bunch, call them. IIRC if you buy a tool chest you get 20% off from then on.
Do them in a star pattern (btw, always ask the shop to hand tighten the bolts)
If your vibration is only around a certain speed range and you feel it in the steering wheel then it is almost 100% certain that it's a balance issue. Just because the shop "balanced" it doesn't mean they did it right.
I just noticed you say 50mph+. So any speed over 50 (say, 80mph) and you feel the vibration? Then it's probably not a tire balance issue...and it's now harder to diagnose over the net. Where exactly do you feel the vibration coming from?
This Tire Rack flow chart is fairly thorough and should allow you to diagnose the problem yourself.
http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/vibechart.pdf
All good info...
Had a very slight vibration in the steering wheel at around 72mph. Had all four Hunter Road Forced, the front tires were perfect, both rears required .5 oz more weight. Vibration in wheel gone!
I was very surprised that the rear wheels caused it.
Some shops don't have the right equipment to balance wider tires. The Firestone where Tire Rack shipped a set of tires for me eventually admitted this after REPEATEDLY failing to properly balance them. Eventually, they paid Discount to do the job properly.
You paid a shop to do this correctly...insist that it gets done correctly. They should also be torquing the lugs to spec using correct equipment - if they're just rattle-gunning the lug bolts on rather than using a torque wrench, run away from that shop.
Make sure the mating surfaced between the back of the wheel and the hub is clean or any dirt and corrosion. This can easily make the rim wobble, regardless how tight the nuts are.
