ignition switch (I know, I Know)

Did some searches. Still looking for a bit of clarification. 2003 996 C2. This morning put the key in like normal and would not turn at all. Finally after a few min of jiggling was able to start. Now not doing it but don't want to get stranded. So my actual million dollar question is. Tumbler or the electrical switch? Did not here the preliminary crunch that others experience. In reading I find people say switch but seems counterintuitive to me being that it's mechanical with no electrical issues.

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Most ignition switch issues manifest electrical symptoms. Dash lights not coming on, headlights not working, engine won't crank, things like that. Thus the cause is often diagnosed as an electrical switch issue and not a key tumbler issue or some issue with the rod that locks the steering wheel. And the diagnosis is often right. In the case of your car the symptoms are of course different, not electrical in nature so it would be a reasonable thing to guess the problem lies with the tumbler, or something mechanical and not the electrical switch. If you would admit to be a bit, well, forceful when turning the key that is forcing it to turn when it doesn't want to turn due to some pressure of the wheel on the locking rod, or admit to having attached your Porsche's key to a heavy keychain that would serve as an anchor on a battleship, I would offer the opinion the problem lies with the tumbler/mechanical portion of the switch assembly and not the electrical portion. The only time I had a suspected switch issue, and the symptoms were electrical in nature -- engine would not crank but otherwise the dash lights, etc, everything worked normally -- while the electrical portion was available separately, from an Audi dealer parts department, the mechanical assembly was only available from a Porsche dealer parts department and it came complete, with the electrical switch module too. In my car's case the cause of the behavior proved to not be the switch -- the tech told me the switch was in real good condition (he replaced it on my request) -- but instead proved to be an intermittent problem with the clutch interlock switch, a new one, that over time corrected itself. Might add that AFAIK the electrical portion plays no role in the rotation of the key in the tumbler and the behavior you report can't be related to the electrical portion of the switch assembly. If I'm wrong in this assumption, then of course the electrical switch could play a role, perhaps the only role, in the behavior you experience. With that out of the way, and working on the assumption the problem is mechanical and not electrical, unless you can find a source for just the mechanical portion of the switch you are faced with replacing the whole thing. But if it is bad, it is bad and it ain't going to get better.

Until you exchange the ignition, spray WD40 into the ignition. I can't see that will harm anything and it may not even catch again. And now I am waiting for some smart know it all bastard to jump in and say 'Typical Hurdi' solution.

Thank you for the detailed response. That's what tripped me up as there have been zero electrical issues. Have not driven as not to get stranded but have repeatedly tested since and it is as smooth as butter. I know things don't fix themselves so will keep a close eye. My Biggest concern is my keys will not deactivate the alarm. I can just see myself unlocking the door and trying to turn the key within 10 seconds so the alarm will not sound only for it to be stuck and looking like a total **** sitting there as my horn blared looking like I'm actually trying to steal my car.

Buy and program a new key head.

So on one hand ~$11.00 and a planned ~45 minutes at home in the garage, on the other, 12:20 am on Sunday night 2 hours from home on a dark street with poor cell reception? At least buy a replacement switch and carry it with a small screwdriver and a flash light

Will definitely be buying the new switch as it seems to be relatively straightforward install with minimal investment.

FWIW I've experienced the same issue about 4-5 times in the past 3 years. The key could be inserted and removed, but it would not turn at all. Moving the steering wheel and jiggling the key would eventually solve the problem. It would happen once and then disappear for many months. It has been on my todo list to repair but I assumed it wasn't the electrical portion of the switch but rather the tumbler or steering wheel locking mechanism. It hasn't seemed to get worse over time so it hasn't been a high priority for me.

I and several others have seen mechanical problems with inserting and turning the key, as well as electrical gremlins. BOTH of which were solved by replacing the electrical switch on the end of the ignition switch assembly. Easy and cheap job.....just DO it. Bill

"And now I am waiting for some smart know it all bastard to jump in and say 'Typical Hurdi' solution." Looks like you got that covered.

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This just happened to me yesterday for the second time. Key goes in and out with no problem but won't turn. Took several attempts but after two minutes turned and started. Definitely a mechanical issue within the tumbler. I'm going to talk with a locksmith and see if a dry graphite can be inserted into the ignition cylinder.

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I have used a small amount of "3 in 1 oil" twice in the last 3 years as Hurdi suggests. Worked for me so far. I also carry a spare switch "kit" in a plastic bag for when it fails away from home.

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+996 Stop trying everything else and change the electrical portion of the switch and see what happens. When mine went,I just knew that the way it was acting I was going to have to replace tumblers, get a new key, pay a bunch of$$ to the dealer etc. But first I went to NAPA and bought the $11.49 electrical switch. Took me 19 minutes to swap out. Now works like a charm.

Changing my ignition switch was one of the first repairs i did when I got my car. Key would turn but couldn't remove it. Then if I could the stereo and Ac stayed on. All kinds of symptoms from others. As frank says buy 2 keep one in car. Swapping it takes a little patience. You are upside down in footwell and using a headband flashlight helps. I think I bought the Audi part for $14.

Initially I could not remove the key then after removing the rubber surround the key could be removed. Thought that was a relieve. Then little minor electrical problem became apparent such as lights do not turn on or interior lights do not turn off. Then the car would not start. Long story short, did my research and bought a switch and just swapped it out. Would have been easier if my eyesight was a little better. In any case, made the swap and the electrical problems are still there and the car still will not start. Only thing it is working is that the car knows the key is out versus before I had to push the ignition key slot a couple times after removing the key. Any ideas or tow to the mechanic ? When I try to start the car all things are randomly happening. Spoiler went up, the window went down a bit. Problem is that I cannot bring the spoiler back down or put the window back up. Could it be the control board is fried? Hope not. Thanks for any advice

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I have a 2003 996 C4 by the way.

Are the VW switches of the same part number the same as the audi? I picked up a VW switch same part number. It seems my electricals are all gone. Cannot even close the windows. Only thing that seem to work electrically if the radio but I guess it is a separate unit.

My car wouldn't start sometimes. It wouldn't turn over. So i just replaced the ignition switch and the clutch switch and all is better. I also recommend these being replaced on a newly purchased cars with 50k or more miles.

I had the same issue and was an electrical switch at the back of the barrell - replaced it and no problems since

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Any idea which switch? Thanks

I will try and dig out the invoice - it was around $70 NZ from memory

There is 2 different part #'s depending on which ignition you have. Part # 4A0905849B if you have # 996-347-017-05 or # 996-347-017-06 ignition assembly OR part # 4B0905849 if you have # 996-347-017-07 ignition assembly. -Jason

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I got the Part 4A0905849B from a VW dealer. Is this the same part whether from VW or Audi. Replaced the switch but the electrical is still messed up. Any help is appreciated

You sure you didn't need part # 4B0905849 instead? Notice there is no "B" after that part number. -Jason

This part number, 4A0905849B, is correct for 2003 if the ign/steering lock assy is original. If your car went to dealer for ign switch repair in the past then this it will need the updated one 4B0905849. All of the updated switches that I have seen have a white cover, old ones have black.

Is the floor under the driver's seat wet or did it get wet? That is where the alarm module lives. If wet take it out, open it up, and you might be able to dry it out and clean the corrosion it up so that it works again.

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It appears that it is the original and had the red paint on the screws. The switch I replace was black. I don't think the car floor was ever wet. I did not drive it in the rain and I just took the car out of storage.

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What voltage does the battery measure? Is it at least 12.4 volts? What does it measure when you try a window.

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Just a little background. At the very beginning, the key would not come out of the ignition. After some jiggling and removal of the rubber surround the key came out. The car still thinks the key is in the ignition but once I pushed with my finger on the ignition, it was fine. This was last fall before putting the car into storage. Then after some time of not driving it even though I had a trickle charger all winter, the car would not start. I thought the battery was weak and used jumper cables and jump started it. Drove it for an hour and then I got stuck when I couldn't start it again. Got a friend and jump started it again. While waiting for my friend I found the interior lights remained on and was heating up. This was when I suspected something wrong with the switch. Lucky it started and I drove it home. At this time, as far a I know, most of the electrical worked. I was able to open and close the windows, etc. There it stayed as I cannot start it up again. Looked online and searched out the switch, and changed it over. It was worse. Did not start and everything went crazy. I cannot even open the trunk, operate the windows and the spoiler went up and I can't put it back down. It seems the only electrical thing that I can control is the radio. The battery meter from the car is all over the place as well as all the warning lights. The battery seems to new fully charged as well. Help!?

Are you sure the electrical switch on the back of the ignition assembley was installed correctly? Basically all the problems you describe are what I ran into and switching it out solved everything. It is a little tricky getting it properly snicked in to place, but mainly because it is so damn awkward and tight. Do your headlights work? That switches h causes wierd problems too, and I had to replace mine at about 45k miles. And to the OP, as counter intuitive as it seems, while it sure seems absolutely mechanical and you would swear it HAS to be the mechanical switch... It's very most often not. I could not get my key out for almost an hour and it would not turn properly, and when I did get it out, I had to rap sharply on the switch to kill the "Key not removed" alarm. And all it was was the $11 switch, which I bought on eBay. Even with the switch in hand and studying it, I was very hard pressed to understand the problems it caused. Crazy, but true! Don't let an unscupulous dealer "play it safe" and cost you a small fortune when it is an easy but awkward $11 fix.

hopeforcash.... as perry says above. It may be you have had 2 electrical problems here - a faulty ignition switch (which you have replaced) and your battery could be discharged and / or faulty. A fully discharged battery will give you similar symptoms that you are experiencing. Make sure your battery voltage is at least 12.6 v or put a charger (not a battery tender) on it for several hours. Or use a substitute battery. Getting the ignition switch electrical portion connected wrongly would be difficult as it has 3 locating pins to orientate it correctly to the electrical plug. Of course, the new switch could also be faulty.....

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If I disconnected the battery from the car and put a battery charger on it and in less than one minute the charger goes to maintain, does this mean the battery is fully charged or could it mean the battery is faulty. I don't have a battery tester, maybe I will look for one. Thanks

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Also, anyone know where to get the under $20 switches in Canada? The one I picked up from VW cost me $38 Cdn. Obviously no refund or exchange since electrical part. Should I try another switch before giving in?

Personally, I would make sure the battery is OK before shelling out more money. Do you have a multimeter - if so, check the battery voltage, it should read 12,6v or thereabouts fully charged. Can you substitute another (good) battery from another vehicle and connect temporarily - at least that way you know its not a battery low voltage problem you are experiencing.

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Thanks, I will check the battery this weekend. I have to open the hood manually as the electrical is mixed up.

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Took a multimeter to the battery and looks like it cranks to 10.5amps. Would this cause the electricals to go crazy? Or just not start the car. Would trying to boost the car work or get a new battery? New switch not good?

I would take your battery to one of those local auto part stores and have them do a load test on the battery. I had a battery awhile back that looked good with a multimeter that wouldn't start the car, but was bad on the load test. A $100 later, I was good to go. -Jason

Finally went and took the battery out and got it tested. They found the battery"unstable" so got a new battery. Put the new battery in and thank goodness all is good. Only thing was when the ignition switch or battery was not working correctly, the fog lights are out. I hope it is just the bulbs. Thanks all for your assistance.

Addressing some of the comments herein - even though the issue feels like it MUST be mechanical in nature, and couldn't possibly be the electrical component of the ignition switch - dollars to donuts it's the electrical switch. When it goes wrong, it very much feels like the mechanical parts of the switch are done, but the part is SO cheap and SO quick to install, it really ought to be the first thing you try if you have any key interference issues or any electrical gremlins. Well, MAYBE second, after checking whether the floor is wet.