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White smoke screen from exhaust

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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW

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YOUR RESEARCHWhite smoke screen from exhaust

Leading reported evidence

Check before it takes your motor out

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed

Get it checked before it takes your motor out!

White smoke screen from exhaust
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Leading evidence: 'Check before it takes your motor out' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check before it takes your motor out' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.

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Run 0w30....you can

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Regarding oil, I run 0w30....you can run what you like as long as your engine achives approx.

White smoke screen from exhaust

Test particularly cyclinders 5 and 6

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed

You need to have your engine cylinders pressure tested, particularly cyclinders 5 and 6.

White smoke screen from exhaust

Check crankcase vacuum

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Suggestion

Have you checked the crankcase vacuum with a manometer to rule out a bad AOS?

White smoke screen from exhaust

Check oil level and add oil every 7000 miles

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Suggestion

3) You lose 1.25 quarts of oil every 7000 miles - meaning you check your oil level and add oil every 7000 miles?

White smoke screen from exhaust
Frequently discussed actions (10)

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Check before it takes your motor out

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed

Get it checked before it takes your motor out!

White smoke screen from exhaust

Check crankcase vacuum

No successful repair reported for this finding.

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Suggestion

Have you checked the crankcase vacuum with a manometer to rule out a bad AOS?

White smoke screen from exhaust

Check oil level and add oil every 7000 miles

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Suggestion

3) You lose 1.25 quarts of oil every 7000 miles - meaning you check your oil level and add oil every 7000 miles?

White smoke screen from exhaust

Replace gas cap

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Suggestion · Original poster

I replace gas cap but code still pops up from time to time

White smoke screen from exhaust

Replace oem aos

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Suggestion

In another year or so, take a hard look at replacing the Oem aos with a UAOS or Motorsports aos.

White smoke screen from exhaust

Run 0w30....you can

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed

Regarding oil, I run 0w30....you can run what you like as long as your engine achives approx.

White smoke screen from exhaust

Run conditions are good

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Suggestion · Original poster

As pressures and engine running conditions are good.

White smoke screen from exhaust

Run mobil 1, loses some oil around 6-7000 miles

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Suggestion · Original poster

All I was saying was that in every vehicle I own, running Mobil 1, loses some oil around 6-7000 miles.

White smoke screen from exhaust

Test cooling system would be a good thing

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Suggestion

So pressure testing the cooling system would be a good thing to do.(?)

White smoke screen from exhaust

Test cylinder and cooling system is a good start

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Suggestion

As others have mentioned, pressure testing the cylinder and cooling system is a good start.

White smoke screen from exhaust
Coverage and how to read this overview

Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.

23 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.

  • Rennlist: 1 discussions

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Generation: 20261026T174436Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources

POST 1 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

2002 996 c4 I have search other trheads and not found one like my issue. I did not run the car hard and as I turned into my neighborhood thick white smoke came bellowing out the exhaust and rear. Car also ran rough and I thought it was going to seize up. I pulled over and noticed coolant was low. I have had an intermittent leak for a couple months. I topped it off(about a QUART). Started it up and more thick smoke with little to no odor. So thick that it completely hid the world from view in seconds. It appears to be water vapor. There is no mix in the oil or oil in the coolant. No trouble codes other than PO 0455 for loose gas cap. What gives here?

POST 2 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

I forgot to mention that the oil light came on briefly and when checked it was 1.25 Quarts low but Mobil 1 seems to evaporate a quart every 7000 miles in whatever I run it in. 10w30

POST 3Original post

Cracked cylinder liner possibly. Had the same symptoms aside from the oil light.

POST 4 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 17504230

I guess that's better than blowing the engine?? What did you do to fix it? And how much $$$?

POST 5Original post

"I have had an intermittent leak for a couple months. I topped it off(about a QUART). Started it up and more thick smoke with little to no odor. So thick that it completely hid the world from view in seconds. It appears to be water vapor. There is no mix in the oil or oil in the coolant. No trouble codes other than PO 0455 for loose gas cap. What gives here? when checked it was 1.25 Quarts low but Mobil 1 seems to evaporate a quart every 7000 miles in whatever I run it in. 10w30" 1) You have an intermittent coolant leak for a couple of months - and did nothing about it. 2) You have a CEL for your gas cap - and did nothing about it. 3) You lose 1.25 quarts of oil every 7000 miles - meaning you check your oil level and add oil every 7000 miles? Hmmm... You need to have your engine cylinders pressure tested, particularly cyclinders 5 and 6. Hopefully it is just a cracked head. Hoffmans can fix it up for you.

POST 6Original post

Quotes source post: 17504137

NOT turning this into oil discussion but 10w30 IS NOT the correct weight to be running in these engines. 5w40 is your best bet with some heavier weights possibly, depending on several factors.

POST 8Original post

Quotes source post: 17504676

So pressure testing the cooling system would be a good thing to do.(?)

POST 9Original post

Quotes source posts: 17504107, 17504244, 17504244, 17504244

Needed to read your post again... Where exactly is it coming out? If a cracked cylinder liner (and I did have coolant in the oil fwiw), water vapor would be coming out of one tailpipe (assuming you don't have an x-pipe setup). If its coming out the whole engine bay, you're probably looking at a cracked coolant tank or ruptured hose, but that wouldn't explain the rough running. As others have mentioned, pressure testing the cylinder and cooling system is a good start. Blowing the engine could mean a lot things, but a cracked liner would required a full rebuild. At least you'd be at a better starting point. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...s-rebuild.html No idea until you've figured out the issue. Here's a good thread for rebuild costs: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...under-10k.html The numbers will be much higher if you're not supplying the labor. Best case scenario its just the coolant tank or a hose.

POST 10 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 17504602

1. I had a mechanic try to find the leak but he did not. I did keep it topped off as needed 2. I replace gas cap but code still pops up from time to time 3. I keep tabs on the oil. All I was saying was that in every vehicle I own, running Mobil 1, loses some oil around 6-7000 miles.

POST 11 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 17504627

I tried 0w40 and 5w40 in my 2001. It didn't like them, noisy motor and I went back to 5w30 which was suggested by Porsche, And everything quieted down.

POST 12 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

OK, finally got some free time to look at it. Its definitely coming out of the exhaust and smells a little like oil. It cleared up by itself and then returned on its own. I did get another code today. P0134 O2 sensor B1S1 no reading. No coolant leaks or any other leaks. Still no mix of fluids. I have a short video I will post if I can. Also, the smoke is way more prevalent on the right hand side. I guess its off to the shop?!

POST 13Original post

Quotes source post: 17532855

Have you checked the crankcase vacuum with a manometer to rule out a bad AOS?

POST 14 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

No I don�t have a manometer

POST 15Original post

Quotes source post: 17533174

Normally, when someone complains about excessive smoking out the tailpipe on a Porsche 996, my immediate reaction is a failing AOS. IMHO, you need to rule that out. You Tube You Tube

POST 16 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 17533214

Thanks for those Videos. I believe this is exactly what happened. I will find out and report back

POST 17Original post

AOS was my very first thought. Get it checked before it takes your motor out!

POST 18 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 17533622

Do you know the correct part number? Porsche is telling me 996-107-026-51-M100 is wrong . Don't worry this 911 won't be driven till its corrected.

POST 19Original post

Official product number for 2002 996 3.6L C4 it is that 99610702651 but without M100. Pelicanparts adds their own identifier. Just make sure that you get a genuine part - it's not that expensive. Or then that "Rennlist product" called UAOS -> https://ultimateaos.com/ Look for threads here.

POST 20Original post

Brianbbs67, take off the airbox+hose, push open the throttle valve with your finger and check if the intake behind it is oily. It should be dry, if not the oil comes via the PCV(positive crankcase ventialtion) system which has the famous AOS(Air Oil Separator) in it. The smoke thickness you describe tells me it is oil burning and not water evaporating. Causes could be broken AOS and/or scavenge pumps dead/very worn in conjunction with leaky chain tensioners. Possibly a combination of it all. Heavily overfilling with oil could also generate the same smoke screen. Regarding oil, I run 0w30....you can run what you like as long as your engine achives approx. 3.5bar @ 5k rpm. Idle oil pressure is rather irrelevant but anything over zero is good.

POST 21 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source posts: 17533829, 17533933

Thanks, Checkered Flag Porsche verified its correct and Yes, only Porsche Parts for this one. Yes it is oily. I'm leaning AOS. As pressures and engine running conditions are good. (I am not running it now of course). Hopefully, I dodged a bullet. I ordered a Porsche AOS today for $120 and will have the local shop look at it and relay the findings.

POST 22Original post

In another year or so, take a hard look at replacing the Oem aos with a UAOS or Motorsports aos. The Uaos allows you you change the diaphram without removing the aos plus it has additional enhancement parts that can be added for the track. This will save time and money. The motorsports aos will have to be removed and replaced. Both are durable as he'll in relation to the Oem aos. Unfortunately, the Oem aos has a very short life span.

POST 23Original post

Hi Brian As mentioned by others, white smoke is usually coolant and will tend to dissipate whereas oil, bluish in color will hang in the air. I would see if you can get a hold of a slack tube manometer and verify the crankcase pressure as it is possible your AOS has failed and you now have higher vacuum going to the crankcase and pulling up oil. Use an Airlift kit for the cooling system, this kit will apply 25" vacuum to the cooling system and generally if you have a leak, it will not be able to draw down a vacuum on the cooling system. I measured my 2003 996 crankcase pressure today at the dipstick and it was 6" H2O.

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