Best year 996 for the first time Porsche owner?

Hey guys and girls, like many of you, I have dreamed of owning a Porsche 911 since childhood, I can still picture the six foot poster of the old 911 turbo with the whale tail on my bedroom ceiling. I'd look up at it and tell myself that someday I would own a Porsche. Well, adulthood has set in and my financial state is finally allowing me to make that dream a reality, at least in an entry level form lol. I troll Ebay, Craigslist, FM Marketplace, etc. for cars frequently to stay current on market trends and pricing. I've figured out that the most likely model for me is going to be a 996, but I'm not familiar with any pro's/con's for any model years within that model range. I am aware of the IMS bearing issue as well as the leaking main seals, but are some years more desirable than others? I definitely want a manual trans, ideally a Carrera or a Targa. My wife suggested a cabriolet but I've never been a big convertible guy so I can take it or leave it I suppose. Ideally I'd like to stay at or below $25k, but for the right car with the right options I'd be wiling to stretch that a bit. Here are my wants, in no specific order, Id appreciate any input from y'all as I'm essentially a newbie here. -manual trans - Aero kit -NOT YELLOW lol, although I could always wrap the car if I didn't like the color. -prefer a Carrera (4, s, etc.) or Targa -IMS service already done and car recently serviced

Not trying to be a downer. But an aero kit C2 is going to have to be stretched well beyond 25k. Good luck in your hunt. Clean 3 pedal coupes are commanding bigger Money than they have in a while.

From my perspective, the 996.1 is "better" as they can be a bit less problematic. Early builds with the 3.4L have minimal cases of bore scoring compared to 996.2-997.1, it has the dual row IMSB which is also much less problematic than the single row. Cable throttle, cable's that allow access into the trunk and frunk (much easier to jump should the battery ever die, which has happened). I drove a 996.2 (C2) and I really didn't feel that much difference, but it was only a test drive so not enough time in the drivers seat to compare long term. Aerokits when they pop up tend to bring a premium, especially if XAA and well kept / documented. Convertibles are nice, but if you take a look at the front page, you'll notice a good bit of people having issues with their cab tops, some of which have been very expensive to get fixed. I can't speak on Targa's, love them, but think may have seen something about the seals as the car ages? Really end of the day they're all great, and each have pro's and cons. Most will tell you to plan on a thorough PPI (bore scoping, dropping sump, etc.), which is of course a good idea, but don't expect it to catch everything. Others will have more input, but those are few things off the top of the head. There are deals out there for around $25k still, everything that fits your list may be stretch as prices have gone up considerably lately.

6MT C2 coupes with an Aerokit are starting around 35K for a decent one...and it will likely still have some deferred maintenance to catch up on. If you want to stay around 25K try looking for basic coupes, there are out there but prices are rising daily. IMO the earlier build the better, '99-'00 models was where I looked.

Thank you for the input, I appreciate it. I do have a reliable Porsche mechanic nearby that I'd trust to give it a once-over when I find the right one. I am seeing some 99-2000 Carrera's out there for under $30k but I'm not in a hurry to jump into something. I'd rather be patient and find the "right" one for me. Funny you mention the bore scoring, I just came across a 2003 for an unusually low price and they mentioned that cylinder 6 had bore scoring. I'd assume that entails a full engine tear down and honing/re-sleave?

A rebuild is basically 80% of your budget, so you would do well to make sure you get an invasive PPI to avoid a sad ending. There are still "deals" out there, but you'll have to stay vigilant. Good luck!

Aside from the mechanicals and what�s mentioned already, it largely comes down to what headlights you like better... 996.1 or 996.2. I prefer the 996.1 headlights, but prefer the 996.2 front bumper. Too bad there is no easy way to Frankenstein those two together. Both are designs great in their own rights. Personal preference. I�d say try as much as possible to get the options you want up front, because adding them later is expensive. I�m happy with my car, but looking back several years ago when I bought, I foolishly passed on cars with sports seats and aero kits for similar price. If I could go back I�d have paid more attention to the options details.

If you want the aero kit, my opinion is that it looks better on the 996.1. But this link below is a summary list of changes from the 996.1 to the 996.2. Many of the improvements are not obvious or visible, but may help in focusing on specific years. Also, when you write "prefer a 4S or Targa", that puts you in the 996.2. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post15173972

Also, just thought about it more. The question isn't what year is best for the first time Porsche owner, the more important question is "what condition". And the answer is to find the newest one you can afford, with the best maintenance history, all records of work done, and the lowest miles. As a first time owner the highest priority is find on in the best condition and put all the other "wants" as second priority preferences.

If you are from the NorthEast, that budget is woefully low for what you are looking for.

I have a 2004 C4S. Having recently been through plugs/coil packs and an exhaust and suspension refresh on my 104k mile car that spent 10 years in Chicago I'd avoid a rust area car. While the bodies aren't likely to rust, the exhaust hardware and other exposed bits can. I had to replace my rear brake lines for example and getting the exhaust and coil packs off was a huge pain in the rear. I agree with what others have said. Good ppi and best example of a C2 you can afford is likely your target. I don't know much about this era of targa. My guess is a convertible and targa are going to be a bit less $ than a coupe.

Quotes source post: 17525007

Illinois, but from the searches I've been doing there are a multitude of996's out there within that range. I'm aiming for early spring 2022 to have a car in my garage so I have plenty of time to wait it out.

Drive them and see what you like. I was told to go 3 chain vs 5 chain so there is that by my Indy mechanic. Bore Scoring and IMSB, yeah it can happen but so can being crunched in a parking lot. Odds are way in your favor. PPI is a must. Not sue I would go as far a scoping the cylinders but just other things like leaking radiators, Scan tool, leaky seals, cracked oil tube, bum test, etc... This stuff can add up fast. There are plenty of 100k plus cars for sale which tells me they aren't as fragile as we are led to believe. Enjoy the search, it's half the fun.

Quotes source post: 17525882

To OP: Just so you know not having the cylinders scoped for scoring can lead to a $15-$25k hit to the wallet. Not saying it will but it could. Judge your own comfort level...

My $.02 is don't rush yourself into one of these cars if you are at all risk averse or worried about the running costs. Invasive PPI is a must in my opinion. Practice saying "no" and wait for the one. Patience and diligence has brought you many of the gorgeous cars and happy stories to be found on Rennlist. Of course there are plenty of exceptions to this but if you are looking for a formula for success I believe strongly that removing emotion and urgency from your brain will help you make decisions in your best interest. Godspeed and can't wait to see what you find.

I was in the market a little over a year ago so I'll take a stab. Most of the things are good or bad depending on your point of view. 996.1 (1998 - 2001) ================ "Older" looking headlights showing more fried egg orange unless you have the Litronics/Xeon Less HP (20) & torque but also less weight. People say the 996.2 engine does feel more torquey Direct throttle cable instead of throttle by wire Direct frunk & engine compartment cables. Battery failure doesn't render them useless No glove box or cupholders Dual row IMSB that is less suceptible to failure, or at least hides the failure for longer Less suceptible to bore scoring. Older models had a slightly more robust lokasil coating on the cylinders. I don't know if this changed with the 996.2 or earlier Seems less desirable in the mass market because it's older. I think the 996.2 fetch higher prices for the most part 996.2 (2002 - 2005) ================ More modern looking headlights & front end Generally more electronics (throttle by wire, PSM, electronic frunk & engine compartment releases) A little more HP & torque Glove box and (flimsy) cupholders Some have the higher end Bose stereo with the fiber optics that can be a PITA to modify Seem to be more suceptible to bore scoring and IMSB failure. However the very latest models did have a much more robust IMSB which is the best of the three Three spoke steering wheel is standard (that's the one thing I don't like about my '99) In today's market they seem to be more desirable because they're newer and seem to sell for a little more $$ C4S, Aerokits and 40th Anniversary Editions are more desirable and will blow your $25K budget. Early '98 builds and the newest 996.2 years also seem to be going for more $$ If you want to keep your initial cost down a 2000 or 2001 standard C2 will probably cost the least. Aerokits and C4S don't add a whole huckuva lot of performance but they will hold their value better. If you're looking for something that will getch the most $$ if/when you sell (doesn't look like you are) then buy the oldest '98 build you can find or a 2005 with aerokit or a C4S. High mileage isn't necessarily bad. There might be more wear and tear but in no way does it mean the engine is about to go. Low mileage cars seem to have more IMSB and bore scoring issue. People think this is because they get driven short distances & warmed up & instantly shut down which increases fuel concentration in the oil which doesn't get changed enough. I'm with you on the cabriolet. I'm not really a convertible guy either so I opted against the cab. Like others said the more risk averse you are, the more important an invasive PPI is. Ask your Porsche shop how he feels about removing the sump and using a scope to check for bore scoring from the bottom. It's a great thing to do in theory but not as easy in practice. Many mechanics don't think it's important or may not know how to scope from the bottom. Many sellers don't want the buyer's mechanic removing the sump.

^I think only �99s had cable throttles. also, my 2001 C2 has the electronic frunk and deck lid release. Otherwise, that seems like a great summary

Here's a great one that, one way or another, will appreciate faster than your interest rate on a loan.. https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...ckType=listing

Quotes source post: 17525823

Not for a C4 or C4s coupe or a Targa...with or without aero...at <$25k and decent mileage. a C2 Cab with auto and 100k miles, sure. I was looking for some stuff for myself so ran some numbers on Autotrader, Carguru, and Autotempest....I know there are other places to look, but, nationwide, sub $25k might get you a 6MT C4coupe with 100k on it, but not a C4S or Targa from what I can see. GLWP

Im also about the enter the club of first time P owners...as others have said, prices have defiantly gone up in the last few months!

It took me almost 5 weeks to find and decide on mine. Higher mileage car with a ton of maintenance are not bad at all. If you get one with clutch, rms, IMs, plugs, coils, brakes, AOS. Ac done you are going to save some money. Also a lot of times cars that have already been modified will get you a bargain because a lot of people want stock. Some want To keep them as such or modify them to their taste. I�m partial to the early 98 builds. An alternative to what you are looking for could be a cab with a hardtop. If the engine is good and the car maintenance is up to date that would be great. Stay away from bat, that will destroy your budget.

Best years for the 996 is 1999-2004. They all have their advantages. Just buy a good one.

Someone posted this on a different thread OP. This appears to be a good deal https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/c...345506947.html

Looks to be a good deal here, right on budget https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...8657473355889/

Quotes source post: 17524411

Year-wise - My recommendation would be an early 996.1 with dual-row IMS as the safest option. I think you need to look at the serial number to know for sure if a given 996.1 has dual-row, but I think (roughly) 2000 and earlier are likely to have dual row. I also prefer the look of the headlights on the 996.1 over the 996.2, but many have the opposite view, so determine which one you like. Model wise -- I recommend coupe, 2wd, 6-speed -- reason being that these three options add about 120-150 lbs in weight each. I had a '01 4wd Tiptronic coupe and now have a '00 2wd 6-speed couple, and they could not drive more different, with the 2wd 6-speed being much more fun to drive. In addition to weight, 4wd really changes the driving feel quite a bit (to the point that some have converted their 4wd to 2wd). I would only get 4wd if your really need it. I thought I needed it for my first 996 for the rare snow day, but winter tires with 2wd (with rear engine weight over rears) is supposed to be very good in snow, so I probably never actually. I haven't taken my 2wd out in snow, so can't comment from direct experience. Option wise -- Must haves for me are for full leather and 3-spoke steering wheel. Full leather makes a world of difference in interior quality (my first 996 did not have it, the one I have now does). The three-spoke wheels is also much nicer for many -- but some prefer the vintage look of the 4-spoke, so determine which one you prefer (you'll likely strongly prefer one or the other because they are very different). Test Drives : If you can -- drive a 4wd vs 2wd, since you are leaning toward 4wd, and drive a cab or Targa versus coupe to feel the difference between the two.

Quotes source post: 17531522

If I may add a clarifying comment, the purpose of the AWD is to make the car faster. They are faster because traction is better and they are more balanced and stable at high speed. But of course it also helps with slick surfaces like rain, gravel, and snow. The AWD also acts as an LSD, if one rear wheel slips/spins, the power is immediately transferred to the front wheels thereby stopping any rear wheel slip. After all they put AWD on every 996 Turbo, but not so owners can take their supercars out in the snow. I really like that my car has AWD and PSM (Porsche Stability Management), gives me some additional confidence if I take the car close to the edge.

Quotes source post: 17531749

Thanks -- I think that is an important clarification. I didn't mean to indirectly suggest that snow was the primary purpose of the Porsche's AWD. For me, personally, snow was my only reason for getting a Carrera 4 because our first 996 was a daily driver for my wife (also the reason for the Tip). There are other benefits of the awd, as you have stated, but I still prefer the overall driving characteristics of 2wd regardless of any other benefits. I definitely encourage the OP to drive both before deciding one way or the other because they are different and preferences and priorities vary a lot from one person to the next.