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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH2002 996 replaced my oil pressure sensor. EZ
Reported or suspected cause
most effective method
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Read evidence and context
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Reported cause · Original poster
It�s proven to be the most effective method to help with loosing up threads.
Leading evidence: 'most effective method' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'most effective method' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect wires' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I replaced my sensor/sender after pressure started wild fluctuations and even dropped to zero triggering the alarm.
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Suggestion
Is your hand too big to get in to disconnect the wires?
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I know this has been covered, but I will share my experience and tips. I replaced my sensor/sender after pressure started wild fluctuations and even dropped to zero triggering the alarm.
Replacing 996 oil pressure sensor -EZ - some tips
I was getting oil pressure readings from 0 to 5 and the warning when it went to zero. Yes, very alarming, and creates anxiety when happens. In my case it was the sender. I ordered a replacement for $50.00. With a 19mm crows foot, 3/8 drive universal and a 6 inch wobble extension i was ready to do it. I jacked up the rear, put a shop light under the car and another on the engine. Sensor wires disconnected. Some practice to find best position. Then I gave the sensor a liberal squirt of penetrating oil. Using the lefty loosie and righty righty rule, I got into a good position, and with substantial force I loosened the sender. Got up from floor, reached in and unscrewed the defective sender from the top. I then screwed in the replacement, got back under the car, and tighter the sender. You can feel when it�s tight and the washer is compressed. I got back up, squirted WD 40 on the two terminals, pushed them back on on. Installation complete. Started the car, observed no leaks, pressure on car instrument panel perfect. Went for a ride. Meter registered correct pressures. Job done. Overall about 1 hour. Didn�t remove tire or heat shield. It�s about the easiest repair. I rate it as difficult as replacing the air filter. Big tip: use penetrating oil. I used Blaster. It�s proven to be the most effective method to help with loosing up threads. If you try to remove the sender without a penetrating oil, it�s possible but a much bigger hassle. If you turn the sender the wrong way, you might again create a big hassle. Penetrating oil and turning it looking up from the bottom counterclockwise and you should not have and problems other than a few scrapes on the hand. Savings in 2020 probably over $300. Again it�s Easy and something just about anyone can do. Good luck
Edit
I'll admit I've had this sender sitting on a shelf in my garage for a year now and 2x oil changes later I haven't bothered to attempt this. Thanks for the tips on the penetrating oil - I think next time I jack my girl up I'll grab my crows foot and extension and finally get this job done.
If you want to do it up to torque spec you need a digital torque meter as you need to put the ratchet in reverse with a crows foot to get onto it from underneath.
Help!!
This 15 minute 1 beer job has me seriously questioning my mechanic skills. I'm at least 6 beers and 2 hours in over multiple episodes. What I have found on my 02 cab with sport exhaust:
- cab engine bay must be smaller/more cramped. I cannot reach the unit or the wires from the top. Impossible. My hand will not get in there.
- the vacuum canisters/muffler for the sport exhaust (Which totally make the car btw), take up all the space. I cannot remove the heat shield by the spark plugs/coil packs. Accordingly, I cannot reach up to the unit- it's not visible than it is from the top, but no less accessible by hand.
So, I either take it to the shop OR pull the muffler off to get more wiggle room. The only problem with this plan is that the exhaust bolts are so rusted in, I'm sure I'll break a few, so I'll have to get new stainless bolts...
Other ideas???
Is your hand too big to get in to disconnect the wires? Have you tried using a crow's foot + extension? Your wrench needs to be going forward to remove it.
