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YOUR RESEARCHself made stiffer engine mounts
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Fill through large opening only
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Leading evidence: 'Fill through large opening only' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Fill 4 holes' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Install function first front trans mount inserts as well
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I installed the Function First front trans mount inserts as well.
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I tossed the mount and used a new mount with a powerflex yellow insert.
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Suggestion
Is the urethane filled just through the 2 small holes on the top, or do you also fill the 4 holes on the bottom?
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Suggestion
thank you for the reply, my new engine mounts and windo weld is on the way, any tips or do I fill the gaps evenly with the windo weld?
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Suggestion
I know this is old thread, I am going to replace my engine mounts with the stock 996 turbo engine mounts and was thinking about adding windo weld to the base.
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I figured out a while ago that my engine mounts were shot, they were sagging badly. So i ordered some new oem ones and then put window weld in them and let them set up before installing them.
I dont notice really any difference as far as vibrations or anything but holy crap the shifting is so much smoother now ! I am sure thats from the new mounts and not much to do with stiffening them up a little
Its a cheap way to get a bit better engine mount and keep the stock feel
on the left the new ones, the right the old one but it doesn't do it it justice as in the car the old one was hanging down at least an extra inch
the easiest engine mount change i have ever seen, i remember changing some on a previous car and it was a 6hr job lol
I know this is old thread, I am going to replace my engine mounts with the stock 996 turbo engine mounts and was thinking about adding windo weld to the base.
How are your engine mounts working out? any draw backs?
its really easy I just cut the tip about the same size as the hole to get the nose in there and took my time ensuring there were no gaps, really even if you miss some I don�t think it will make much difference
Thanks for the reply. I'll order this at the same time I order the mounts. That way I can let them cure for a week,, prior to installing.
Have you or other's reading this had any experience with transmission inserts like this:
Thanks for posting. I ordered OEM engine mounts more than a year ago, but they've been sitting on the shelf because I haven't had time to install them. I normally prefer OEM to minimize vibration, but this sounds like a subtle enough difference vibration-wise that I'll probably do it.
It looks like there are 2 small holes on the top of the mount and 4 more on the bottom of the mount (see pics below). Is the urethane filled just through the 2 small holes on the top, or do you also fill the 4 holes on the bottom?
Some seem to love them. I tried Function First black ones (hardest ones) and they were horrible for a street car. 5 mins up the road and I thought I�d forgot to bolt the transmission back in as the NHV was so bad.
I�m currently using Rein OEM type mounts I modified with 3M Window Weld. Couldn�t be more pleased. Firmer than stock, but not too much NVH. Also have a set of Rennline M18s I had to remove. A bit too much buzzing, especially around 3,000 rpm.
I filled through large opening only. Trying to push the stuff through the small holes may be impossible. Stuff is pretty viscous.
Is there a reason you would do this rather than buy solid mounts? You've allowed yourselves to be convinced your engines will explode or score themselves to death, but you're ok running it with failing parts that you inject with epoxy to save a buck. This forum is great for a laugh.
I installed the Function First front trans mount inserts as well. I went with their orange inserts (their softest durometer) and could not feel or hear any additional NVH with them. After doing the engine mounts, trans mount insert and suspension refresh, it feels like a new car - huge difference.
????????? Are you not aware that solid mounts create a lot of vibration? That may be fine for track only, but t�s not ideal for most people for street. Whether you recognize it or not, a ton of engineering goes into designing OEM parts to work with all of the other elements of the car.
Even if an aftermarket product is built with better materials than OEM, that doesn�t guarantee it works with the rest of the car better than OEM. If you don�t care about vibration, get solid mounts. If you want to minimize vibration, as most would in street only or DD use, then OEM is likely better. If you want to minimize vibration, but be have slightly sportier feel, then apparently modding OEM is a good way to go. The desire to do that has nothing to do with being cheap (at least for me), it looks like a very good solution for �slightly sportier� performance while not compromising on vibration for street/DD use.
You are not going to get any consistency in epoxying them from car to car nevermind from mount to mount, so at best it's a placebo. Glue whatever you want to your car, I'm still gonna laugh at it.
Laugh all you want. I modified a brand new part for my own satisfaction. Can I tell the difference? Definitely. If semi-solids are causing my car harsh NVH, why on earth would I want solid mounts?
Funny you say save a buck when the OE mounts plus poly is more expensive that a set of solid engine mounts. This is a solid solution to the problem of rapidly failing oem mounts for those who don't wish to have their interior shaken to hell by solid mounts.
Let me see, original mounts were in car for about 77,000 miles. New Rennline M18 mounts, $350 plus shipping. New OEM style Rein mounts, $165 plus shipping. 3M Window Weld tube, $29.95 plus shipping. Does this sound like an attempt to save money? Original mounts were shot, I threw them away, did not attempt to repair.
Wow. Thanks for all the replies and opinions. Somehow I didn't know that engine mounts were such a hot debate topic. I thought that was reserved for oil or spark plug threads, and playing stairway to heaven at guitar center
To get back on topic a little a po put this into the trans mount in my car. I tossed the mount and used a new mount with a powerflex yellow insert. Everything feels the same and i have maybe 10% nvh so i would expect similar results with a mm.
I’ve heard others say putting stiff trans mount can really liven things up. I really enjoy my altered OEM type mounts. Will try on track at Barber in April for DE day.
There was another thread about "stiffer than stock" motor mounts triggering the knock sensors. I don't know if stiffening OEM would be enough to trigger the sensors, but it's something to consider when deciding what to to ->
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ne-mounts.html
