Front Axle Nut

Just a simple question. Is the torque for the front axle of a 996 C4 supposed to be 340 ft lb? Also is that nut right or left handed? Thanks

Yes, 340 foot pounds front and rear. Right handed nuts on all 4 axles.

Thanks. What size socket?

Excuse my ignorance. What does left right mean? Is it regarding lefty loosey?

The threads are usually made for a right hand tighten. Some times there are nuts where the threads are for left hand tighten. They are unusual. I asked because I cannot get my axle nuts to remove even with a 3 ft extension bar. Some torque multipliers are made so that they are for loosening nuts but cannot usually work for tightening - I think. Any help is appreciated.

Socket is a 32mm or 1 1/4" because when you get this big, the tolerances are pretty wide. My 3/4" drive socket set is actually dual marked inch and metric. And you'll need a 3/4" drive set to hit 340 foot pounds. This is how I do it: 3/4" socket, a 3/4" torque cube that beeps when you hit torque, a jack stand for support, a 3/4" slide bar, and a six foot pipe for leverage. This setup is for tightening: push down on the pipe. To loosen I flip it around with the pipe on the other side and omit the torque cube. The jack stand supports the end and keeps the socket from slipping off the nut.

Thanks. Just what I needed.

So lefty, tightly?

Righty tighty leftie loosey.

Was changing rear wheel bearings on the Mazdarati, rather than the Porsche, and since I refrain from using impact tools if possible, I was stunned that I couldn't loosen the 32mm axle nuts with what I thought was plenty sufficient leverage on a cheater bar. Yet they popped right off with the Old Milwaukee electric impact driver. I wish physics made more sense to me. Lol ​​​​​​

Well I tried to loosen the nut as theprf recommended but no lunch with a 4 foot cheater bar and even using an extension of another 3 feet. No luck ! The is really tight on there. I used PbBlaster now and will continue using that for the next day every 8 hours and then try again. I don't really want to use my impact wrench because it does not have enough torque. I would hate to buy a stronger impact but after a few days I might give in on that thought.

Is your impact not �" drive? Like I said, I couldn't believe that a cordless impact loosened a nut that I couldn't loosen with far more leverage than the torque spec for tightening.

If you're using 1/2" drive there is enough flex in the sockets and extensions and breaker bars that you'll never get it off. I don't care for using an impact on rolling element bearings either; I'm concerned about brinneling the bearing and causing myself more work. I'd upsize to a 3/4" T-bar like this: https://www.sears.com/armstrong-tool...h/p-A099946140 and a 3/4" socket with a short extension.

OK. I will use a 40 inch x 3/4 in breaker bar and also see how that works. I just need to keep that tire from turning.

Get some one to stand on the brake. Or make a stick to hold the brake pressed.

Well that would work in most cases but I am trying to do the front axle removal and have already disconnected them from the front differential. I was too fast and did not think about the correct sequence to do the work.

Just a comment on putting this back together. I "torqued" mine using the simple math method - X length bar times Y weight of my person on the end - to get to the required torque. Not trusting this, I went to a Ford Truck dealer and they let me borrow their monster torque wrench (carried it with two hands). I was surprised that the nuts all went about another 1/2 turn! So find a real torque wrench to be sure you get them snugged up again.

That's a good point on torques. I used this: Amazon Amazon which beeps as you approach the set torque and then goes to a continuous tone as you hit the set torque. None of these 3/4 inch drive tools are cheap, that's the investment required if you're going to do this the right way.

This will be delivered today along with my 3/4 inch breaker bar.

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That�s the one I have as well. But don�t leave batteries in it. Even turned off it will suck them dry. I don�t use it that often, thankfully, so installing batteries when I need to use it is no problem.

Just a note to say that the axle nuts and bearings on Porsche are some of the jobs requiring crazy amount of torque. To do this right you really need professional level equipment. For loosening, that means the biggest 1/2 inch impact wrench Milwaukee offers, and for tightening a 3/4 inch 600 ft-lbs torque wrench. Your DIY saving will pay for the tools. Alternatively, you can use the math method to arrive at the correct torque: 3 foot pipe, horizontal to the ground, apply 113 lbs of weight at the end of the pipe. If you do it correctly, the method works. Mathematics do not fail. If the borrowed torque wrench set to the same setting goes another 1/2 turn, then the torque wrench needs calibration.

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Do it exactly like the picture above, wheel on the ground, parking brake on. This eliminates suspension travel and prevents the wheel from turning. The jackstand is important to keep your tool aligned.

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This is all correct, however don't neglect deflection of your 3-foot pipe. This is non-negligible and will affect the final torque - though not by 1/2 turn.

OK. Maybe it was 1/3 of a turn!

I�ve heard you can use an impact gun on loosening bolts and nuts, and not have to worry about any damage. So even a wheel bolt that had 600 ft lbs on it (like 9X the amount it should have on it) can be taken off with a gun. Tightening, on the other hand, should be manual and with the right toque wrench.

Finally. My 3/4 inch breaker bar and the right size impact socket (not an impact wrench) worked but fine with a little persuasion by my weight.The right tool for the right job. Thanks Everyone for the help. Now I can get to refresh my front suspension since I have taken the axle nut off to replace the front differential seals. Might as well do the full job while I am in there. Thanks again.