32 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
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YOUR RESEARCHCost of new DME?
Reported or suspected cause
missed shift between 1st & 2nd
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Reported cause · Original poster
FWIW, This was caused by a missed shift between 1st & 2nd because I wasn't sure of red line because of a softronic flash.
Leading evidence: 'missed shift between 1st & 2nd' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'missed shift between 1st & 2nd' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check codes he now believes the dme is fried too' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Check suncoast & autohausaz and don't see them listed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Checked Suncoast & autohausaz and don't see them listed.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Forgot to mention first thing I did was replace the MAF (with fingers crossed).
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
- validated seller was a place dealing with Porsches and that he had the VIN number before purchase as needed it for coding - I used it for troubleshooting a problem that tuned out not to be the DME but I'm using the 'new' unit and it works great
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Suggestion · Original poster
Got an email from Firehawk & after checking codes he now believes the DME is fried too.
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My indie thinks a voltage spike has fried my DME and quoted a ballpark price of 1k. Any ideas on sourcing a rebuilt unit? Checked Suncoast & autohausaz and don't see them listed.
FWIW, This was caused by a missed shift between 1st & 2nd because I wasn't sure of red line because of a softronic flash. After I hit rev limiter, the engine totally cut out and then got ABS, PSM & CEL lights after restart.
Durametric shows -
P1266 - code 409 - function monitoring safety fuel shut off signal implausable.
P0102 - code 115 - MAF below limit value
ABS / PMS codes - 5525 - incorrect data transfer with DME master control unit.
In case anyone is feeling especially helpful, will also need a new ignition switch and will soon be sourcing those as I was quoted $600.
You cant do a used one, you would need the vin number from the old car, your indie most likely cannot repalce a dme, as they cannot get dme program codes.
Doesnt sound like a bad dme to me. DOes the car crank? sputter? crank realy fast
Guess my indie feels sorry for me on cost of DME but he's killing me on the ignition switch. Sunset's at 1,037 & 101 respectively.
Does anyone reman the DME's?
Brad - thanks for your 2 cents. Car cranks, starts & runs fine but ABS & PMS aren't functioning. Going to try flashing it back to stock program and see it that changes anything before pulling DME. folks at softronic don't think it will matter. Indie implied he could replace DME.
I guess wrecking yards are out as possible source for DME, but thanks anyway
p0102 is 99.9% of the time a bad maf............that will cause a psm/asb light and a fault in the abs, with a porshce tester it read as "torque transfer troubled at times" or something along those lines I dont know the number off the top of my head. Sounds to me like a bad maf, I have never seen and wouldnt belive a bad dme casued those faults (or similar) unless I saw it with my own eyes .
The ign switch 600For a indie, thats a wee bit high, I know a dealer with a very high labor rate that could do it for that.
Forgot to mention first thing I did was replace the MAF (with fingers crossed). CEL went out for a moment and came right back on but ABS & PSM stayed on.
Sunset quoted me 101 for ignition switch. Any chance that's (an idiots) DIY?
What were the original faults?
what are the currant faults?
the ign switch is a diy (i do all my work myself) , no special tools or skills required nothing the average joe wouldnt be able to knock out in a few hours.
original faults were -
P1266 - code 409 - function monitoring safety fuel shut off signal implausable.
P0102 - code 115 - MAF below limit value
ABS / PMS codes - 5525 - incorrect data transfer with DME master control unit.
After I changed MAF was def still getting 5525 & 409.....don't remember if 115 was present because I assumed it was same problem since all 3 lights stayed on.
faults would need to be cleared after the maf was replaced other wise the ligths would remain on.
You have a pm.
the ign switch o-box is talking about is a audi/vw part. not availabe through porsche any longer.
Porshce recomends changing the whole ign lock housing, they even do this when they are footing the bill, I have to assume they have reasons for paying more for a a part and labor.
On a side note, I have only seen one bad 9x6 dme ever, seen lots that people though were bad, seen lots get changed. But only one that was bad. People with otehr brand expeience are used to pcms or ecms failing, motronic..............not so much
unfortunately porsche now replaces the original ignition switch with one that has an aluminum housing. According to parts dept. at suncoast all the original ones go bad and this new version fixes the problem.
What makes the indy think the DME is bad?
Get the codes cleared. ABS and PSM come on if the throttle body needs cleaning- for example.
Have you tried clearing the codes?
[QUOTE=JDSStudios;6546768]What makes the indy think the DME is bad?
Must have misspoke because I did clear the codes with enthusiast version of durametric after replacing MAF and 1266 & 409 are still present.
Not sure why he is so convinced DME is fried, but hopefully it is something like a dirty TB. You could be right because I'm running a K&N CAI and haven't cleaned TB in a while.
[QUOTE=Kolshak;6547187]
Ok, that makes sense, because I also had CEL and ABS on within a few seconds
from each other, and after cleaning the throttle body all is well, for several weeks.
Time it took the indy to clean the throttle body: 12 minutes
I agree that you do not need a new DME.
Fix your ignition switch and then have the indie give you are MAF readings at idle and at 2500 RPM no load. Post them here.
By looking at the mixtures and the air flow over the MAF you should be able to tell (easily) if the DME and the MAF are working properly.
Thanks guys. Got an email from Firehawk & after checking codes he now believes the DME is fried too. Indie is supposed to verify on Monday but I'll ask him to try Lorens suggestion.
FWIW - if it's toast, the best (i.e. least expensive) fix I've found is a company specializing in P-car DME rebuilds. They only mention 993 DMEs on their site but are updating it to include 996s. They quoted 1300 for new (I'll pass on that because dealer is 1037) and 650 for rebuild.
http://www.ecudoctors.com/home_process.html
If you want a used one I have one with the programming codes so it can be programmed to work in your car. If you provide me with the codes for your car I can even provide it to you as a plug and play solution. $350 + shipping.
-Todd
I would really really really like to know why the DME would be fried (maybe because I studied electronics
for many years). It would be interesting to know exactly which component "fried".
Perhaps you could ask whoever troubleshot it?
I'm interested too but for other reasons besides studying electronics. The only theory so far was a voltage spike. Because of how it happened (engine cut out immediately when car hit ~ 7400 RPMS) I thought it had something to do with the softronic flash (which raised the redline) but the mechanic & folks at softronic say it's not the cause. I don't understand the implications but before the flash I'd hit the stock rev limiter many times without incident.
It sounds like bad programming.
You are right, you should be able to redline all day long, without damaging
a DME (which is an EPROM I believe).
What exactly is it NOT doing now?
Does it not accept an original OEM re-flash?
ABS, PSM & CEl lights are on and I couldn't flash it back to stock.
Softronic & mechanic say the new program couldn't have caused the voltage spike. I don't understand enough about the implications of flashing & programing to know why.
I know its a old thread, I am in a similar situation. Wanted to check how much it cost you to replace the DME and if it resolved the issues that you were having. Especially the performance of the car and did PSM error disappear?
Bought a used one from a breaker $190 - used part number on my old one to search for new one on ebay... - validated seller was a place dealing with Porsches and that he had the VIN number before purchase as needed it for coding - I used it for troubleshooting a problem that tuned out not to be the DME but I'm using the 'new' unit and it works great
Just to let you know, The VIN is stored in the DME. Somebody brought me a used DME a while back, and I was concerned for the same reason.
I plugged in my Autologic computer, pulled the VIN from the donor DME, called Porsche, got the immobilizer codes, programmed it, and the car ran.
Its not a big deal if you dont have the VIN... I'm sure the PIWIS II can do the same.
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