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YOUR RESEARCHA simple Clutch Question
Leading reported evidence
Replace while the trans got a new 2nd gear synchro
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Just had ours replaced while the trans got a new 2nd gear synchro.
Leading evidence: 'Replace while the trans got a new 2nd gear synchro' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check by your local trusted indy if you are unable' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Check by your local trusted indy if you are unable
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Suggestion
might be time to have your car checked by your local trusted indy if you are unable to diagnose or troubleshoot a bad clutch.
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Suggestion
However, if you often drive around town somewhat aggressively, then you will probably have to replace your clutch at about 30,000 miles or so.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Thanks for all the solid feedback will run some tests tomorrow see where I land.
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17 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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1. Pedal gets noticeably harder (more resistance) when you press down on it.
2. When shifting, RPM's remain high with a noticeable decrease in acceleration.
3. You notice a "Burning Clutch Smell" consistantly.
4. You start noticing clutch fluid on your garage floor.
The old "shadetree garage" mechanic test is simple:
Drive at maybe 40-50 mph, put car in 6th gear and really stand on the gas. If the tach speed increases without the road speed also increasing, your clutch is slipping. Time for a new clutch disc.
There are a few ways to tell. First, you should figure out how old your current clutch is. If your car is driven with mostly highway miles, then clutches can last almost forever. However, if you often drive around town somewhat aggressively, then you will probably have to replace your clutch at about 30,000 miles or so. With a hydraulic clutch system like the one on the 911, it can be a bit more difficult to determine the exact problem than with an older-style cable clutch system. Spongy pedals, excessive free play, and grinding noises all indicate problems with the clutch or hydraulic system. Strange noises that change when you push in the clutch pedal can indicate a pilot bearing or throw-out bearing beginning to fail. Finally, if your clutch begins to slip when the pedal is not depressed, then chances are your clutch disc is worn or the spring plates in your pressure plate have worn out. This info, along with more, can be found at our tech article
here
.
When the clutch failed in my 996 C4S at roughly 120K miles, it gave me very little warning. It started to feel stiff and I did notice that it was more difficult to get the car into first gear. When I noticed this, I was able to drive the car for about one week until the clutch simply wouldn't allow me to put the car in gear at all. It happend very fast....
Which is the blessing and the curse of a hydraulic clutch. No adjustment to worry about, but then it's that adjustment that is a warning the clutch is going out.
In my experience also when the clutch is new your touch point is deeper as you press the clutch. When older, The touch point is more shallow and the point of connection is almost at the end of the pedal just before it's fully released.
That could be a problem with the pedal/spring. Have you noticed any of the performance issues mentioned, specifically, high RPM's with little acceleration?
Also, can you get your car rolling from 2nd gear?
Just had ours replaced while the trans got a new 2nd gear synchro. 1 wasn't an issue, 2 was indeed going on but I was blaming the driver, 3 never happened, and until they installed the wrong crush washer the car never leaked a drop of anything in its life.
What they found was that both the clutch and flywheel were done, so it was kind of a good thing the trans needed the rebuild as I figured we had another 10-20k at a minimum (only 40k out of this one FML
). Since the replacement the action is much smoother and there is no more of what I now know was slipping.
Going to give it a try tomorrow see what I experience. My intuition tells me the clutch is going but I am not 100% sure.
Thanks for all the solid feedback will run some tests tomorrow see where I land.
Ok strange
First clutch is hard again or feeling normal I should say.
No issues 1st gear or 2nd gear rolling start. Shifting ok rpm and acceleration normal (need new engine mounts though not related). No smells, bone dry. Threw her into 6th as suggested all okay.
Back story from this weekend is driving hard 110-120 mph around 6500 rpm clutch got soft, remained soft the next day. Feels normal again 2-3 days later.
Just replaced mine; 99 c2 with 90k on the odometer. It happened suddenly at a stoplight, pedal went soft and almost to the floor, but drivable. I thought clutch master or slave cylinders, nope. A week later started slipping, and the 4th gear "trick" of low speed full throttle displayed almost 1,500 rpm slip. Clutch was shot, down to the rivets, and pressure plate "fingers" had deformity.
Good luck
May have to do just that, my previous 04 clutch went exactly as described by others a few years back.
Driving driving driving, all good BOOM Clutch is out.
My intuition still saying clutch is going... going in soon to get my coil overs done and suspension alignment may as well throw in new clutch in to the mix, it is only money right?
I will just have my middle kid pay for his own 2nd year of college
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