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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHReplacing Rear Side Section
Leading reported evidence
Inspect anti-sway bar bushings
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Suggestion · Original poster
Three weeks ago I installed my FD mufflers (if you haven't done it, do it) and figured WIWIT I'd inspect the anti-sway bar bushings.
Leading evidence: 'Inspect anti-sway bar bushings' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Inspect anti-sway bar bushings' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Sounds like a real PITA, but I'd spend more time trying to get that bolt out before even considering replacing the entire assembly.
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Suggestion · Original poster
It's been to two shops who said they won't touch it since they don't want to use acl/oxy and melt the surrounding aluminum.
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Suggestion
If you can't get a grip on it from the side, can you cut a slot across the top and use a flat screwdriver or impact driver?
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Outcome without a verified action link
It's just one of those things that drive you nuts until you get it fixed!
Three weeks ago I installed my FD mufflers (if you haven't done it, do it) and figured WIWIT I'd inspect the anti-sway bar bushings. No issue on 3 of the four bolts that hold the brackets in place but managed to snap the head off of the upper bolt on the passenger side.
Three weeks later I've spent at least 12 hours drilling, heating, etc trying do get the darn thing off with no luck. I had to order a special close quarters drill just to be able to fit in the 6" between the bolt and the header. It's been to two shops who said they won't touch it since they don't want to use acl/oxy and melt the surrounding aluminum.
Here is my question/request for advice: Should I just order a used side section from eBay versus just continuing to struggle (in my unheated single car garage in 5 degree Michigan weather) to get the bolt? Has anyone on here done this before who could give me an eta on how long it would take? I need to get an alignment anyway and I'd probably prefer to swap the part out versus continuing to spend God knows how much time on this F$*# bolt...
Any other thoughts appreciated...
Sounds like a real PITA, but I'd spend more time trying to get that bolt out before even considering replacing the entire assembly.
The folks over at garagejournal.com usually have some good ideas for particularly difficult bolts and might offer a tool or technique you haven't tried yet.
Hard to tell from the photo whether you managed to drill a hole in the broken stud. Have you tried soaking it with kroil or pb blaster? Tried the easy out extractors or left hand drill bits?
Thanks for the replies.
I've sprayed with PB but will pick up some kroil tomorrow and just keep soaking it throughout the week until I can get back under it.
There is a little less than 1/4 in of stud remaining on the outside but multiple attempts to get the channel locks and pipe wrench to bit have left it tapered so they just slide off the end. The last time I got a good bite on it I could see it move but my luck ran out...
As for the hole I'm about 1/4 of the way through to the end but shattered one of the carbide bits. I can't tell if there is any left in the hole since there isn't space for me to stick my head in and my phone can't give me a clear shot. I'm thinking of just going in through the back but the angle is even weirder than the front.
It's just one of those things that drive you nuts until you get it fixed!
"There is a little less than 1/4 in of stud remaining on the outside but multiple attempts to get the channel locks and pipe wrench to bit have left it tapered so they just slide off the end."
It might be a little late now, but you probably could have gotten a bolt extractor on the stub that was left there... one of these types
http://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/sc...olt-extractors
. Also, a regular propane torch will probably heat things up enough to help you out (oxy-acetelyne is probably too much unless you're super careful) it might still be worth a shot - choose a size smaller than the stud and tap/hammer it on there - the shock from the hammering might also help loosen the stud or help the PB's penetrate. Good luck
Just keep hitting the bolt with PB and LOTS of heat. I mean, put a flame on it for minutes, get it glowing red, then spray with PB, heat back up, PB, heat. Then clamp down the vice grips as tight as you can (go get a new pair with sharp teeth so they bite into the metal) then try to spin it out. You should be able to get it out.
Also, the pb will likely catch on fire, so be ready to blow it out.
Just picked up the following:
- Irwin Bolt Extractors
- Left hand cobalt drill bits
- new channel locks
- extra O2 tank for my MAP/Oxy torch
- PB (didn't find Kroil)
I do like the impact driver idea but I'll need to see if I have enough clearance to get it in and get a hammer on it.
The wife is at a bachelorette party this weekend so I know what I'll be doing on Saturday night
Just and idea...I used this on a socket head cap screw last year. I rounded the allen drive a little and this was abrasive enough make the tool bite. I know you are using a vise-grip or pliers but it may help with the "grab" you need. I would be careful with heating that alum casting up too much.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/p...chTerm=compund
