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YOUR RESEARCHRADIATOR FAN REPAIR NOT REPLACE
Reported repair
Repair fan and starter issue is gone too
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1
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0
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1
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Leading evidence: 'Repair fan and starter issue is gone too' (1 discussions report resolution; 0 report an unsuccessful attempt). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'gone too' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Repair fan and starter issue is gone too' (1 discussions). For that action, 1 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. The most frequently reported fix is 'Repair fan and starter issue is gone too', supported by resolution reports in 1 discussions. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
But I tend to think most of the fan motors being replaced don't need it.
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Use crc brand qd electronic cleaner (quick drying)
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
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Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Also, I used CRC brand QD Electronic Cleaner (quick drying) to clean and allowed to dry over an hour before soldering.
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Thought I would share this with you guys.
I had a radiator fan totally In-op. Being I like to know why things fail, before I went and bought a new one I thought I would give this one a look.
I have found in the past Many many issues repeat themselves as a weak link and I think I may have found one on our radiator fan motors. Maybe not and it was an isolated case. But I tend to think most of the fan motors being replaced don't need it. After inspecting my motor other than this minor issue, it has another 150,000 miles of life left.
I would post pix but I am no longer a member and I have no more room. Sorry
I got the fan out and took the fan off the motor, I then took the motor off its bracket, All very easy just 6 torx heads total.
I then took the actual motor apart. I took the back plate off the motor. You will need a medium flat blade screw driver to get this done. By bending the retaining tabs out of the way.
Pop the back off and you will see 4 brushes.
What was wrong with mine was ALL of the brushes were not able to slide back and forth in their carrier due to dirt. (motor brushed have a spring tension on them so as they wear they can self adjust) Take some electrical cleaner and spray the brush carriers while using something to work the brushes back and fourth till they again move freely.
Put it back together. test.. AS GOOD AS NEW
This is very common issue with anything with an electric motor.. they all run in brushes and either need replacing or just needs to be cleaned to make better contact. Anytime i see something electric that was throw away, i always pick it up, fix it and give it to someone who really needs it.
First, thanks for the helpful tip.
Here's my forum tip...
I was fed up with the attachment quota too, so what I did (and continue to do) is upload photos to a generic BLOG site (example: doug996inkc.blogspot.com), then publish the blog post. View the blog post, right click on a photo and select "copy image location", which is a URL to the photo. In rennlist.com, use the icon that looks like a mountain (when hovered over, it reads "insert image). Click that icon, and paste the URL you copied over from the blog. No more quota problems... AND all your photos are in one spot for all forums
Ha.. I used to post a lot in OT. Then I posted a lot of stuff for 928. DIY. Then I lost my membership and never renewed. And ran out of space allowed for pix.
Temp was creeping up. Way past its normal running temp, but in all actuality it all started with what I thought was a bad starter. Turned out the starter was just getting heat soaked and failing when it was hot. Fixed the fan and starter issue is gone too. Along with the increase in running temp.
Hmmm, you are still shown as a "Rennlist Member".
And you can host the images for free on photobucket or flicker, then just copy the image URL as a link here, it's easier to manage as well since attaching images seem to put them all at the end of a posting without the ability to insert text between images.........
Upon further inspection I found 2 solder breaks, 1 on the yellow component (resistor?), and 1 on one of the coils (inductor?).
Can I just repair those 2 solder breaks with a drop of new solder on each? I haven't soldered anything since 5th grade. Thanks.
Not working out so well (yet). The solder is just balling up and not sticking. Just reheating the old isn't working on the coil, not enuf old left.
New solder and gun, Chicago Electric nickel plated copper tip, Chicago Electric rosin core solder.
Please help, thanks.
I would get a little can of flex, solder past and smother the existing solder with it, although your solder had this in its core it may be burning off to soon and not going were you want it
Thanks, I'll try that.
Also, I used CRC brand QD Electronic Cleaner (quick drying) to clean and allowed to dry over an hour before soldering. If that's contributing to the problem, I wonder what cleaner to remove that.
30 watt, max temp. 735 F.
I think you're right, after watching a couple videos. They also imply a bigger tip would help for the bigger joins, so I'll get that. Current tip is very skinny fine point. Gun package says "for delicate soldering jobs", so might not be capable. I'll try to borrow a bigger gun.
Yeah I just hit the motherlode of info. for this soldering gun (reviews on Harber Fraight site). Folks like the gun but the tip sux, so good tip replacements, usage tips, flux, etc.
At this point I can't help asking "are these things solderable?" 3 photos attached.
I mean, it looks like Bosch welded them (not solder), so does solder work on weld spots (or whatever they are).
Also, looks like Bosch glued on the green and black wires. So when they break off, will soldering them back on work?
I agree those look more like welds than solder. Hard to say with that much mass to heat up. Your best bet is to use a file and some sandpaper to clean the metal surface good. They need to be heat up real good to take the solder. It's entirely possible the metal is just too massive to be soldered.
They still have those?! Is it right next to the toaster/tv/small appliance repair shop?
Grumble grumble grumble.... something about throw away society grumble grumble...
Couldn't resist.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
