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YOUR RESEARCHtechie water temperature stuff.....
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Install obd fusion
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I run these tests, then let the car cool a bit, them run them again, same results.
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I use Durametric on a laptop to read the oil temperature.
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With ambient air temperatures in the 90's, real time coolant temperature will be probably somewhere between 200-215 depending on engine load, speed, rad fans running (or not).
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I don't think it's as simple as using a custom PID in Torque to retrieve.
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With ambient air temperatures in the 90's, real time coolant temperature will be probably somewhere between 200-215 depending on engine load, speed, rad fans running (or not).
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Since I've gotten my OBDII Iphone reader working and paying attention to the "real" temps I've got a couple of questions.
1. The temperature readings I'm getting are after the water has gone through the engine to cool it and on it's way back to the radiators, correct? And that temperature should be the average temperature.
2. Hypothetically speaking, if the thermostat is set to operate at say 200 degree's, does that mean that my temperature reading should be higher than that since the water temperature is measured after the fact of cooling the cylinders and heads?
3. With a stock thermostat, what temps should I be seeing at say running 70 miles an hour down the road at about 3000 rpm's?
I would like to post some observations I have made after I started looking at the "real" readings, but I'd like to get some answers to the questions first.
Mike
Cooling system works basically like this: starts at the water pump, flows through the engine/cylinders, (at this point it hits the temperature sensor), then to the radiators for cooling, then back to the water pump. The thermostat is not a simple on/off mechanism. As the coolant begins to warm it opens slowly. At full engine temperature it is full open. A stock thermostat is full open at 180 degrees F. A low temp thermostat is full open at 160 degrees F. Just because the thermostat is full open at 180 degrees F does not mean the coolant temperature exiting the engine/cylinders will be that temperature. Ambient air temperature will have a great effect on both coolant, radiator cooling and engine temperature. With ambient air temperatures in the 90's, real time coolant temperature will be probably somewhere between 200-215 depending on engine load, speed, rad fans running (or not). I've also noticed that my oil temperature is around 195+ at the same time.
Not to hijack the thread, but question for all:
Any technical reasons come to mind to explain inconsistent cooling (on the same day)?
For example, let's say my thermostat fully opens at 180, A/C always on so low speed fans always on, high speed fans turn on at 225 (I know).
Driving in suburban neighborhood, no traffic, no sitting, just the occasional stop signs. So we can factor out traffic and driving style.
The 1st temp. drop happens at 195 and drops to 190. It's consistent (every day). After it tests 195 a few times, it breaks thru and rises to 212.
The 2nd temp. drop happens at 212 and drops to 208. As before, it tests that 212 mark a few times before breaking it, and then it's on to 225.
What I can't figure out is the inconsistency of those two pause levels (195 and 212). Why do they hold sometimes and sometimes not. Is routing randomness possible eg. expansion tank, condenser, oil cooler.
Keep in mind the car is fully warmed up. I run these tests, then let the car cool a bit, them run them again, same results. Thanks.
I read somewhere that oil temp is supposed to be 5c. If you can add a custom PID to your reader.
I thought about trying to add it, but I was scared to add a custom PID, cause in the app it gives me a warning about adding custom PIDS.
Anyone want to try the 5C for a custom PID.
Mike
Would love to learn what apps and what OBD2 devices people are using. In particular if you're using an iPhone as my understanding is that a lot of the Bluetooth OBD2 devices don't work with iPhones.
I'm particular interested in the water and oil temps.
Thanks!
My understanding is "5C" is the standard one defined by the OBDII spec for oil temp but it's optional for a car to support it or not (Porsche chose not to report it via the OBDII standard PID). The "Torque" app automatically queries all supported PIDs defined and it's not returning oil temp so I don't think you could get that reported via a generic OBDII scanner.
The oil temp however is available via Durametric that uses Porsche proprietary protocol. I don't think it's as simple as using a custom PID in Torque to retrieve. I would like to be proven wrong though as the oil temp is definitely something lots of folks here are interested in.
To get my Iphone to work with the ELM327 Bluetooth, I had to jailbreak the phone and install two other apps for the bluetooth to work. Then installed OBD Fusion.
The two "other" apps did cost me about 10bucks.
It was a pain in the butt and if you're not willing to hack your Iphone, I'd go with the WIFI version, which is supposed to work without jailbreaking your phone.
I purchased the WIFI code reader below from Amazon and OBD Fusion from the AppStore - no jailbreaking/ hacking involved. Worked fine straight out of the box but no oil temperature as mentioned in my earlier post.
I am not a Porsche certified mechanic but I have a theory on your car, and I don't even know if it is possible. You temperature sensor is bad. If you have a stock themostat, the first temp drop should happen around 180 not 195. If you temp sensor is off 15 degrees (the difference between 195 and 180) then all of you readings fall into line with what everyone else is reporting.
Stuck thermostat, or perhaps your sensor is gummed up. Now having said that, and having to assume that your water pump impellers are not worn, thermostat is working properly, coolant is at the correct level, mixture and fresh, and your temperature sensor is working properly, your fans are running consistently, air flow through your radiators is consistent and not blocked, and your engine oil is fresh, proper weight and at the correct level, why are you concerned (even in theory) about a 5-7 degree difference in a five hundred pound piece of metal pounding away at 3,000+ RPM with controlled internal cylinder explosions at 4,500 degrees F? There are so many variables at play here.
